One Month in Todos Santos

Sand, water, sunshine and good company are sometimes all you really need. – Anonymous

A year ago, in the midst of a cold, dreary day in February, we thought how nice it might be to spend a month somewhere warm. We envisioned ourselves in Hawaii, going to beaches and eating tropical fruit, sipping Mai Tais. We contemplated places like Palm Springs or spots in Arizona where the sun seems to shine all the time. Florida, the Caribbean, Costa Rica or Belize. All nice warm spots….but we settled on Todos Santos, our favortie spot in Mexico and somewhere we know so well.

Now to decide on a place to call home. We looked at apartments, hotels, and private homes. And by chance, we came across a beautiful home a short distance from the beach, killer views from the top balcony, a heated pool, and available for rent the entire month of February. We read the reviews, all sterling. We debated the pros and cons….we couldn’t find many cons. We talked to the owners, asked a lot of questions, and ultimately decided to rent the house. We booked our flights, reserved a car, and started up a packing list. Now all we had to do was wait for February!!!

February 1 we get a ride to the Wenatchee airport, and for the first time in a long, long time, we actually checked a bag….we were staying a month so we thought we might need a few more items. Quick flight to Seattle, grab a bite to eat and then board the plane to Cabo. Normally in Cabo we zip through customs with our carryon bags, but we had that checked bag to collect. The conveyor starts up after about 20 minutes and bag after bag come rolling by….but not ours. Conveyor stops. Another 15 minutes or so and more bag begin appearing. And second to last ours arrives!!!!! Yeah!!! Next stop to collect our rental car and the 90 minute drive to Todos Santos and our “home” for the next 28 days.

Casa Mila was the perfect home for us. Two bedrooms inside, each with their own bathroom, the larger with an outdoor shower. A fully stocked kitchen and a little bodega off the side with an extra refrigerator and a washer and dryer. The dining room and living room occupied the same large space and all along the front was a covered deck looking out to the ocean. At one end of the indoor courtyard stood the spiral staircase that leads you to the rooftop sitting area. Down below was a heated pool and a separate, private casita with a kitchen, bathroom and a king bed. The parking was inside the gate, across the road from us was a boutique hotel and restaurant located right on the fresh water lagoon. (We had access to the kayaks)

Rooftop sitting area
Living Room Sitting Area
On the roof at sunset

We pretty much had the place to ourselves. One week we had our daughter come and stay….she loved having the casita all to herself. We had invited some friends down, but sometimes life gets in the way and they all had to cancel. So there we were with all that room and mostly just the two of us….it was heaven. Every night, and I mean every night, we made out way up the spiral staircase to the rooftop siting area…usually with a glass each of red wine, and we watched the sun set and the sky turn color. With binoculars we gazed at whales surfacing just off shore. And although by the end of February, the whale sightings began to wane, when Jamie was there we were entertained one night by some juvenile whales surfacing and slapping their fins at the surface of the ocean….just offshore and it went on for close to thirty minutes. Remarkable!!!!

We had only one goal for ourselves this trip…and that was to just relax. And that is pretty much all we did. We went into town every now and then to eat out, to grocery shop, to grab a drink, or to shop at the many shops. We had to go to the Todos Santos Brewery to watch the Seahawks Super Bowl game against New England. That was fun…hanging out with a raucous pro-Seahawk crowd, and I do believe the Bad Bunny Fan Club was in attendance. One evening we went for dinner at the Todos Santos Caffe and were entertained by a local musician, Chris Paulson. We found the Tropic of Cancer Monument and ate at all our favorite spots. Almost everyday we made our way to the beach and took long, long walks.

At breakfast I suddenly felt a warm weight on my leg…looked down and saw this cutie looking up at me….yep, he got some bacon!!!!
Until next year!!!!

We had so much fun that we have already reserved the home for next year!!! We cannot wait!!!!

Serifos, Greece

“Greece is not just a destination, it’s an experience that will stay with you forever.” — Unknown

“It takes a lifetime to discover Greece, but it only takes an instant to fall in love with her.” —Henry Miller

We have been traveling now for almost a month and we are ready for a “vacation from our vacation” So to end our trip we sail to Serifos, an island in the Cyclades Island chain about a two hour fast ferry ride from Piraeus. And what a ferry ride. About 30 minutes after departure, the winds picked up…stronger and stronger, gusts up to and over 50 mph. Soon the waves were monstrous and it was impossible to walk about. We heard loud bangs from the decks below, like cars were being tossed about. Plates and glasses were flying off the tables and behind the bar. It was white knuckle time!!!! The captain finally decided it best to slow down and before long we docked in Livadi, the port city on Serifos. Disembarking we had to hang onto our hats and everything else in fear of being whipped away by the wind. What a ride!!!!

Our ferry….but taken on a calmer day

We chose Serifos because it is a quiet Aegean Island…no airport, no cruise ships, only way to access it is by ferry. It would be our home for the next 10 days and afford us time to just relax.

We grabbed our little car rental and made our way up the mountain to our first stay, Boutique Hotel Rizes. We grabbed a Senior Suite complete with our own private pool and a killer view down to Livadi and over the the Chora. We had hoped to spend our entire time here, but the hotel closes down the first of October so we only had three nights in this location.

Cheers to Serifos

It rained hard the first couple days, but when the weather cleared we decided it was time we climbed to the top of the Chora. The Chora is the stunning, whitewashed hilltop capital, a picturesque maze of narrow alleys, traditional Cycladic houses, and Venetian castle ruins cascading down a steep slope with breathtaking Aegean views. We found a spot at the bottom of the hill to park the car and just started walking up.

The cat whisperer
Windmills
Chora climb
Chora Climb
At the top

It was time to switch spots…moving from Boutique Hotel Rizes to a little beach house. Before we arrived at our new digs, we were beginning to feel it was time to go home, but we needed to give this spot a try, and so happy that we did. It was the cutest little house right on this sandy crescent of a beach. We had an amazing deck where we spent hours reading, watching the ferries come and go, eating homemade sandwiches and potato chips and drinking a few glasses of wine, well, perhaps more than a few!!!! The beach was practically ours everyday. Occasionally others would show up for a bit, bask in the sun or swim naked in the sea, but mostly it was ours.

Just up the hill from us was a trail that led down to a neighbouring beach complete with little tavernas. And then over the next hill was Livadi Port and all the stores, shops and restaurants. Our beach house was perfectly situated. And we just relaxed and enjoyed our time together.

Hard to beat that view!!!

We chose not to explore too much, we just wanted to relax and take in the beauty of this idyllic island. But as they say, all good things must come to a close…and we were ready. It has been 5 and a half weeks since we have been home. Tomorrow we will start the journey…turn in the rental, ferry to Piraeus, car to Athens, flight to Frankfurt, flight to New York, flight to Seattle and then finally a late night flight to Wenatchee. We celebrated Heidi’s retirement in style and at the same time celebrated our 20th anniversary. And as this trip comes to a close, you can be sure a new one is already percolating.

Oh the fun we have

Dubrovnik, Croatia

“You don’t have to do a lot in Dubrovnik, just walk around and enjoy it.” -Laura Hyatt

Dubrovnik, Pearl of the Adriatic, has been around for a long, long time. It began sometime in the 7th century under the name Ragusa and overtime merged with nearby Slavic settlers to form a fortified city-state. This independent republic became a major maritime power and traded widely. Over time the wall defending the city grew taller and stronger and helped repel many an invasion. The name Dubrovnik began appearing around the 12th century, but it wasn’t until 1918 that the name was officially changed. Today Dubrovnik is a stunning medieval walled city with a well-preserved Old Town and designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is one of the most visited cities in Europe and gained additional fame by being a filming location for the Game of Thrones.

Heidi on the “Walk of Shame” steps

We found a charming little Airbnb just outside of town. The home had been in the family for generations and had only recently been transformed—from its original dirt floors into the beautiful apartment we were lucky to stay in. The owner remembers being in kindergarten when Dubrovnik was bombarded by Serbian and Montenegrin forces in late 1991. While her father left to help defend the city, she and her family hunkered down inside the house. The scars of that bombardment remain visible today: when you look out over the Old Town, the patchwork of roof tiles tells the story, with more than 68% of the buildings having been damaged during the attack.

Our deck!!!
Evening hitting the walls

One thing we had to do was to walk the walls. It is a bit expensive, 40 euros each, but it is so worthwhile. The total distance around is about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) and takes around two hours, depending on how many pictures you take and stops to gaze. We chose to go in the late afternoon and it was such a great decision for the wall was practically empty. When we came to town the next morning, the walls were teaming with people fresh off the cruise ships. I mean they were butt to stomach across the entire wall, just inching their way along. Ugh!!! The wall is not flat, in fact there are over 1080 steps you must go up or down. But every step you see another amazing view….overlooking the Old Town, out to Lokrum Island the the Adriatic Sea, behind to the towering cliffs….this city is stunning.

Heidi on the wall
Somebody has to defend the city!!
Isn’t she just the cutest!!!!

The next day we arrived early in the morning to explore Old Town itself. We of course found a bakery and a nice cafe with good, strong coffee. Heidi posed on the stairway where Cersei Lannister performed the infamous “Walk of Shame,” a naked walk of atonement through the streets of King’s Landing, forced upon her by the High Sparrow. Of course Heidi wore clothes and instead of an angry mob of people, we had the spot to ourselves. We went into Baroque Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola and saw the oldest grotto in all of Europe. I grabbed my pin at the Hard Rock Cafe, and we walked and walked and walked all about this stunning town.

Comfy spot to sit

Tomorrow we grab a plane to Athens, a car to Piraeus Port, overnight at the Piraeus Port Hotel, and then bright and early the next morning we hop on a ferry to our final destination of this trip, Serifos Island!!!!

Serifos Island



Split, Croatia

“There is nowhere to go but everywhere.”
– On the Road, by John Kerouac

We had quite a drive from Bale to Split. The highway system in Croatia is excellent, quite a few toll roads, but worth it as the money goes to keep the highways in such good shape. On the trip we were using Google Maps when the tunnel we were to go through to get under a mountain was closed, and Google Maps gave us no alternative. So we thought we might as well try going over the mountain and that is what we did….up, up, up and up some more, Google now directing us toward Split. At the crest we were afforded views down to the sea all dotted with islands, and then we descended down a steep, curvy road and then Google told us to turn right….down what looked like a goat path, barely wide enough to fit our little car. Trusting Google, we ventured down the path, around some corners and then..BAM!!! There was the highway, and shortly there after we came into Split.

Split is the second largest city in Croatia, after the Capital Zagreb, and home to almost 200,000 people. It is rather industrial and I hate to say it, but most of the city isn’t all that attractive. But down by the harbor is the Old Town and home to Diocletian’s Palace, Marjan Hill Park, cafes, restaurants, and the ferry terminal. We stayed a little ways out of old town at the TIME Boutique Hotel. We turned in our car rental, checked into the hotel and then made our way outside, ready to explore. We love walking, wherever we go, we just let our legs lead us. You see the most amazing sites.

Wild Peacock

Diocletian was the only Roman Emperor to retire, and since his childhood home was near the current city of Split, he chose here to build his retirement palace. No expenses were spared on this home and it was massive, fortified and a jewel of Roman engineering. Now during Diocletian’s reign, he was not very nice to the Christians. He destroyed their churches, and to those who would not renounce their religion, he would arrest, torture and kill them. But the Christians got the last laugh, for when Diocletian died, he was interned in a huge mausoleum he had built for himself. The Christians, when they came to power, broke into his tomb, threw his body out (never to be found) and turned the mausoleum into a church. The palace eventually became part of the town, and the palace evolved into homes and shops and the town expanded all around it. Today the old palace is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is free to everyone to enter and see what is left of this once opulent palace.

Heidi and Bob in the main Courtyard
Oh, that face!!!!

Marjan Hill is an oasis of a park just outside of town. We walked all the way up to the top for a 360 degree view of the city, mountains and islands below. This is such a people park with a zoo, walking paths, beaches, benches, and theatre. It was so fun to meander up the steps and to experience this urban park.

Ready to climb!!!!
Rub the toe of the Statue Gregory of Nin and you will have good luck!!!!

We enjoyed our time in Split, but now it is time to hop on a ferry and motor down the coast to Dubrovnik. Zbogom (goodbye) Split !!!!

Our ferry to Dubrovnik

Bale, Croatia

Motovun

An adventurous life does not necessarily mean  climbing mountains, swimming with sharks or jumping off cliffs.  It means risking yourself by leaving a little piece of you behind in all those you meet along the way.    -Shawna Grapentin

Croatia, a new country for us. We wanted to rent a car in Venice and drive to Croatia, but the fees charged to enter a different country and to drop off at a different location were astronomical. So we hired a ride from Venice to Pula. We picked up our car at the airport and hit the road to first explore the Istria Peninsula. Our home base for the next week would be Bale (Bah Lay). We found the most amazing villa, right on the beach with our own pool. It would have been perfect for two couples as on either side of the living room/kitchen was a large bedroom and bathroom. It was so comfortable we often thought we might just lounge around the pool the entire week. The villa was located in the Mon Perin Recreation Site…..a huge resort with sections set aside for campers and tenters, another section with small trailer like accommodations, and then our luxury villa location. On site was a spa, several restaurants, a water park, bakery, grocery store, beach craft rentals, and so much more, but it was so spread out you rarely saw other people, and there were miles of walking paths. We even had our own golf cart to motor about in. We really felt spoiled.

Before we checked into our villa, we toured about the nearby town of Bale. Bale is an ancient Istrian town,, that has its origins stretching to the Bronze Age (1800 – 1000BC) with early fortifications, but became a significant Roman settlement in the 1st century AD, and came under Venetian rule in the 15th century. We walked about the town and grabbed a most delicious lunch.

Bale

Istria is a unique spot in Croatia. It is the triangular peninsula in the northwest corner of Croatia that juts into the Adriatic Sea. It is famous for wine, olice oil, truffles, Roman and Venetian history, stunning beaches and mountain top villages.

We wanted to visit a few wineries and try their unique wines. Istria has a long history with wine making and was once filled with wineries making world class wines until the 19th century when the vineyards were wiped out by devastating phylloxera, and then in the 20th century under communist rule only bulk wine production was allowed. But now the wine industry is thriving with world class wineries with talented wine makers popping up all over the place.

We chose to first visit the hilltop town of Motovun. It is probably the most photographed of all the hilltop towns. It is so well preserved and is perched dramatically on a cone-shaped hill high above the Mirna River Valley below. There are preserved defensive walls, churches and a maze of cobbled lanes.

Motovun

And nearby, is the Fakin Winery…their motto, WE MAKE FAKIN GOOD WINE. Marco Fakin is an award-winning winemaker in Croatia and we had to come and try his Teran. Teran is a rich, earthy red wine that is unique to Croatia. And it is DELICIOUS. We bought several bottles to take back to the villa for later. The winery itself was set in the middle of the vineyards and we sat in a quiet courtyard and learned so much from our server Luka, what a great guy.

Next we drove to another hilltop town, Groznjan, known for it’s music and art scene. Similar to Motovun, there is a maze of lanes of cobblestone, churches, cafes, and cuteness everywhere. And just down from Groznjan was the second winery we wanted to visit, CLAI WINERY. Here we wanted to try the famous Istrian Malvasia. And we were so lucky to share some time with Tim, the winemaker. We learned soooo much. And the wine here was outstanding…so of course we had to get a few bottles.

Another day we took a drive to the Venetian town of Rovinj (Row Vin ya). Rovinj was a key port during Venetian rule ((1283-1797) You see the influences everywhere. The old town is situated on a peninsula that juts into the sea. At the top is the Church of St. Euphemia. Cats seem to rule this little town as we saw them everywhere!!! After figuring out the parking situation, we entered the old town and just kept following lanes around and up, up to the church. We arrived very early and the town was just waking up, it seemed like the town belonged to us with no one else around. The views from the top is so worth the climb.

Rovinj
Smooth cobbles

The week here was so relaxing and we loved the hilltop towns. We tried truffles, olive oil and amazing wine. We braved driving the very windy, curvy, up-and-down roads, met so many friendly people, and enjoyed watching the sun set over the Adriatic Sea.

Tomorrow we drive to Split!!!

Away we go!!!!!!

Venice, Italy

View to Venice from our apartment

“Venice is eternity itself.”  — Joseph Brodsky (1940-1996) – Russian-American poet

“Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go.”  — Truman Capote (1924-1984) – American novelist, screenwriter and playwright

Venice, Italy…“La Serenissima” (The Most Serene) A city so unique it is hard to believe it exists. Set on top of millions and millions of logs pounded into the ground centuries ago, this city appears to float upon the water. It is truly a magical place with the canals, the hidden squares, the narrow alleyways….so easy to get lost, and that should be your goal. Wander about and discover all the gems this city holds….it is a goal you will never regret.

When we exited the train station, Heidi experienced one of those OMG – AHA moments, for there in front of her was the Grand Canal, turquoise water, gondolas plying back and forth with a marble church as a backdrop….OMG, WOW!!!! You just don’t expect it. It doesn’t register in your brain that this is real….and then it comes to you….you are in Venice!!!!

First glimpse of Venice

We chose to stay a little ways away from the bustling, frenetic pace of the main island….across the Giudecca Canal on Giudecca Island (Pronounced: Jew Decka) We chose this so we would be afforded a little peace and quiet during our stay and because we found just the cutest little spot to stay complete with a balcony with a killer view over to Venice. There is a vaporetto stop just meters away from our apartment, cafes, restaurants and bakeries below us, and even little grocery stores. After we checked into our digs, we spent the rest of the evening touring about Giudecca, found a wine shop and a great little restaurant and stayed up late just sitting on the balcony watching the lights of Venice come on and the boats going up and down the canal. Magical.

On our balcony above the Giudecca Canal
Dinner on the water on Giudecca Island
Barolo Wine, potato chips and a view….Priceless!!!

Bright and early one morning we grabbed an early vaporetto and made our way across the canal to San Marco Square, we had tickets to visit the Doges Palace and St. Mark’s Cathedral. The Doges Palace, the home of the Venetian Government, was spectacular. We crossed over the Bridge of Sighs, toured the prison, the legislation rooms and even the Doge’s apartment.

The Bridge of Signs….the last view of freedom prisoners saw as they were led to the prisons

The Basilica di San Marco is filled with mosaics, the entire ceiling is a mosaic…..millions of tiny tiles placed together to make beauty….and so much gold, every where is gold. And inside are the famous four horses stolen years ago from Constantinople (now-a-days Istanbul). The thieves had to cut their heads off in order to get them out of the country. The horses were put back together and bridles were added to cover up the scars. There are replicas of the horses outside on the balcony. This church was built specifically to hold the remains of St. Mark whose body was stolen from Egypt in 828 A.D.

Basilica di San Marco

St. Mark’s Square is huge and is surrounded by cafes, many with live music and all with very, very expensive coffee and food…..it is the view you are paying for.

Such fun with this amazing woman
St Marks Square

As you wander about Venice, you come across some of the most amazing sites.

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

And of course, we HAD to do a gondola ride. We didn’t want to go out of one of the main gondola hubs…so many people, so crowded. We wanted a nice quiet ride along the smaller canals. And as we were walking across one of the many bridges, we saw a gondola pull into a little dock just on the other side of the bridge and let two people off. We jumped at the chance, asked if he was up for a ride, and off we went. Just what we were hoping for….all through the tiny canals, under bridges where we had to duck our heads, and even spent little while on the Grand Canal and under the Rialto Bridge. Romantic and so fun!!!!

Romantic ride

We dedicated one full day to explore a few of the outer islands….Murano, Burano and Mazzorbo. Murano is famous for their glassworks. The factories were moved here to Murano years ago out of fear they might cause fires in the main island. The craftmanship here is world renowned. Murano glass is special due to its centuries-old secret techniques, vibrant colors due to unique mineral mixes and intricate handmade artistry by master craftsmen. The entire island is recognized by UNESCO as World Heritage.  We found a nice necklace for Heidi and a Christmas ornament to take home, and we walked all over the island.

Back on the Vaporetto to make the long crossing to Burano. The boat was filled to the gills, the sun was hot and there was absolutely no breeze…..it made for an uncomfortable crossing. When we disembarked, we walked over the bridge connecting Burano with Mazzorbo. We wanted to eat lunch at this wonderful little restaurant there and see the vineyards that produce the indigenous Dorona di Venezia grape, and bottles of this wine go for hundreds of dollars. (we didn’t purchase any)

Then it was time to explore Burano with the colorful homes up and down the canals…supposedly so the fishermen would know their homes upon their return from the sea. The island is also famous for their lace making, though the craft seems to be dying slowly as the younger generation isn’t picking it up. Burano was picture perfect and fun to explore.

And our time in Venice has coming to a close. We pack up, say goodbye to our magical terrace, hop on the vaporetto for our last water taxi crossing, and find our ride to Croatia. Thank you, Venice, for the time of our lives and for the memories that will last us the rest of our years.

Last view of Venice

Florence, Italy

Beautiful David

“Everything about Florence seems to be colored with a mild violet, like diluted wine.”   -Henry James, writer, in a letter dated 1869

“You may have the world if I may have Italy.”  — Giuseppe Verdi (1813-1901) – Italian opera composer”

Florence, “Culla del Rinascimento” (Cradle of the Renaissance). It has been years and years since I was last here and I cannot wait to have Heidi experience this beautiful city.

We had reserved an airbnb but the more I kept looking at it, and reading the reviews, we decided against it and reserved a room at The Hoxton, a nice hotel a little ways away from the old center. We were very happy we did so as the location was perfect and the room so comfortable.

It RAINED during our stay in Florence, almost every day, rain, heavy rain. But we had our trusty rain coats and off we went to explore this amazing city. First off a visit to see David. A year ago I had purchased tickets to see David at the Galleria dell’ Accademia, and chose the earliest slot to enter. When we got there there was a short line to enter…those with tickets, and a huge line for those who wanted to see if they could get in. When you enter this museum, you pass though security and you are then in a large room with statues and paintings. I led Heidi away from this room, to the left, then a right and there in front of you, down a long hallway with statues on both sides, is DAVID…in all his glory. We stood in awe of him for what seemed eternity. Walked all around him. And this with hardly another person around. The majesty of this statue is absolutely mind-blowing. Slowly the crowds came and we went to look at the statues we passed over and at all the other wonders in this museum. On our way out we took one last look at David, now surrounded by hundreds of people all jostling for a glimpse.

Heidi alone with David
Once last look at David before we leave, now surrounded by hundreds of people.

We walked all around the Duomo, the Bell Tower, and the Baptistry. The lines to enter were so long we passed on the opportunity. And we were getting soaked to the skin. Instead we went to the Piazza della Signoria and saw the David replica and the bronze Perseus by Benvenuto Cellini.

Perseus by Cellini

We made a visit to the Basilica di Santa Croce, just a little ways away from the Duomo. And while the Duomo was filled with crowds, this church was almost empty. And inside is the final resting spot for Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Marconi and many other notables. And the church is stunning.

Basilica Di Santa Croce…love the light filtering in
Wine window

We have been to some amazing museums in the world, and we needed to add the Uffizi Gallery to our list. The former offices of the Medici, the hallways and rooms are now filled with some the most celebrated Renaissance art in the world. Room after room…you could spend days here.

Heidi and the Birth of Venus
And another Caravaggio, Medusa

While in the Uffizi, we had tickets to walk the Vasari Corridor, once the secret passageway for the Medici family to walk in safety from their palace, across the top of the Ponte Vecchio and to work at the Uffizi. This corridor had been closed for years and years and only recently opened up for tourists….we had to go. So fun to walk in the steps of the Medici, to cross over the Arno River on top of the Ponte Vecchio, and see the Grotto at the end of the Corridor. What an experience.

The Ponte Vecchio used to be home to butcher shops, but the smell became unbearable, and now there are only high-end jewelry stores over the entire bridge. It was the only bridge in Florence not bombed during WWII….so lucky.

Boats under the Ponte Vecchio

We love markets and there are some beauties in Florence

And the gelato in Florence is superb!!!!

Pistachio and Carmel Maple Gelato….so smooth and good

As well as the food. The most memorable meal we had was at this little Trattoria, Trattoria Tito. The food here was simply amazing, and the walls filled with writings of customers over the years. I had the wild boar with Pasta and it was probably the best meal I had the entire trip. We sat next to a father and son…the son had just graduated from college and was leaving the next day to graduate school. We struck up a conversation and spent probably two hours having the best time communication with them. We actually closed out the place Oh what fun.

And now we say arrivederci to Florence for it is time to venture to Venice. Thank you Florence for an unforgettable time.

Leaving Florence…such a busy train station.

Cinque Terre and a stop in Pisa

“Italy is a dream that keeps returning for the rest of your life.”     -— Anna Akhmatova (1889-1966) – Soviet Russian Poet

“Travel is humbling because you realize what a tiny place you occupy in this great World.” – anonymous

We had a hard time leaving Rome…we had so much fun and there was still so much to see and learn, but the Cinque Terre were calling us. These five charming towns clinging to the rocks above the Lugurian Sea were our next destination….but not before we made a stop in Pisa, for everyone must experience the Leaning Tower at least once in their lives.

When we got off the train in Pisa Centrale, we found a spot to store our luggage, then grabbed a cab to the Tower. The site here is so stunning, with the marble buildings (the Cathedral, the Tower, the Baptistry (largest in all of Italy) and the Camposanto Monumentale (cemetery) standing so majestically against the blue sky and the green, green grass of the Piazza Dei Miracoli (Square of Miracles).

Of course we had to grab a picture of Heidi holding up the tower…we know it is corny as heck, but why not.

We toured all the buildings in the square prior to our assigned time to enter the Leaning Tower. Some facts: Built in a Romanesque style (architecture during Medieval times, characterized by semi-circular arches).  Pisa means “Marshy Land”.  The original completed height of the Tower of Pisa is 60 meters. Actually the tower’s height is 56.67m on the highest side and 55,86m on the lowest side. There are 251 steps from bottom to top.  Construction began August 1173. Completed in mid 1300’s.  The Leaning Tower of Pisa is the Churches Bell Tower.  Currently over 5 meters off center.

Climbing the worn steps to the top was quite a feat with the lean of the tower and the circular pattern you follow, and it was a bit claustrophobic, particularly the last climb to the tippy top and the bells. The view from the top was magical.

Our taxi driver had told us it would be easy to grab a taxi back to the train station, but after waiting for over half an hour we decided it would be best if we hoofed it back on foot if we were going to catch our train. So we wandered the almost two miles back to the luggage location, but during the walk I used all my battery finding our way via Google Maps….we had no way to opening our locker. Luckily a prior phone call to the company showed up on Heidi’s phone as we share the account. We were able to contact them and they remotely opened our locker for us…..Phew!!! Now onward to Cinque Terre (five lands)!!!!

We chose to stay in Riomaggiore and found the cutest little Airbnb. It is always a gamble selecting a spot to stay using Airbnb or VRBO or other sites, but this one didn’t disappoint. The little balcony was where we sat for morning coffee and evening libations, looking out to the blue sea.

From our deck

We had the goal of exploring all five towns, and number one was Riomaggiore. Our apartment was a little ways away from the main part of town allowing us some peace and quiet. Riomaggiore is a vibrant, cliffside village, famous for its colorful, stacked houses that seem to tumble down into the small harbor. It is mostly one steep street with little alleyways that poke out in every direction. Follow one and see what wonders you discover. We found the greatest little wine shop and purchased a bottle of limoncello as we promised to make our own spritz’s. Fun to explore the shops and everywhere you are walking up or down…I swear we built up our thigh strength during our stay…there is very little flat!!!! Oh, and the food was delicious…great pesto and olive oil. And we tried the local white wine that comes from the little vineyards clinging to the hills around the towns…some grapes grown only in this area.

Riomaggiore

After being closed for several years due to a massive rock slide, the Via dell’Amore (Lover’s Lane) was finally reopened just month prior to our arrival. This lane connects Riomaggiore with the next town, Manarola. We purchased tickets and off we went for a gentle stroll along this lane that clings to the cliffs with the crystal clear waters below. And at the end of the lane is Manarola. We think Manarola is the most picturesque of all the towns. It is the image mostly used for advertisements for the Cinque Terre. As much as we love Riomaggiore, Manarola stole our hearts. We explored all over. Heidi purchased the cutest pair of pants and the gorgeous blue top, and we treated ourselves to the most delicious sandwich imaginable. In the little harbor, daredevils were leaping off the rocks and others finding a spot to soak up the sun.

Manarola

To get a different view of the towns, we grabbed a ferry at the Riomaggiore Harbor and viewed Cinque Terre from the sea. We got off in Monterossa al Mare. Of all the towns, this was our least favorite. While it has the best beaches, it seems so much more touristy and crowded, but we toured the old part of town, walked through the tunnel to the newer area, spied the Atlas Sculpture (Il Gigante ) and stuck our feet into the water.

On the Ferry
ool clear water

We then took the train to Vernazza. Vernazza was very busy on this day, but like the other towns very quaint and colorful and STEEP. We wandered about and then caught the train again to Corniglia, the only one of the five that is not on the sea. Instead you must navigate the 382 steps up to the town. We grabbed an nice gelato here and walked about the town. Corniglia is quiet and peaceful, and full of cobblestone alleyways.

We made it to all five towns and fell in love with this area. It would have been easy to stay a couple of weeks here, hike the trails, explore the towns in more detail and just take in the ambiance. But Florence and David are calling us, so we must move on.

Rome, Italy…with a quick stop-over in New York City.

“Do it.  Buy the tickets.  Book the trip.  We ain’t here for long.” – Anonymous

“Rome was a poem pressed into service as a city.”  — Anatole Broyard (1920-1990) – American writer and literary critic

Rome is the city of echoes, the city of illusions, and the city of yearning.” – Giotto di Bondone

Heidi has retired, and now to celebrate….a trip of a lifetime, a trip to say, “WOW, what a career you had!!!”

We begin by flying to New York City, a stop over for a couple of days before journeying to Rome. We stayed at the cutest and friendliest little hotel right smack dab in the middle of the theater district, Hotel CasaBlanca. And right across the street is the Stephen Sondheim Theatre where we will go to see &Juliet after we have a delicious dinner at Tony’s Di Napoli, an Italian Family Style restaurant.

The next day is sun-filled, 75 degrees and perfect for walking…and that is exactly what we did. All around Central Park, seeing things we missed on past visits. (everyone of our past visits were filled with rain and snow) And then a walk on the High Line, an abandoned elevated train route turned into a walking park high above the streets of the city. We also made our way to Katz’s Deli for one of those famous pastrami sandwiches and to see where Harry and Sally sat, “I’ll have what she had!!!”

The Play, &Juliet!!!! So Fun!!
On the High Line with the Hudson in the background

Then it was off to Rome. For the first time ever we flew Condor Air…straight to Frankfurt, then connect to a Lufthansa flight to Rome. We enjoyed Condor Air…they paint their planes with stripes and in business class you even get a pair of striped socks and striped slippers to wear…cool!!!!

striped slippers on Condor

An overnight flight to Frankfurt (hellashish airport), then a quick flight to Leonardo da Vinci International Airport in Rome. We chose to stay in Trastevere, across the Tiber, for its distinct Roman charm, cobbled streets, and a bit quieter than the more touristy areas of Rome. Our choice of accommodation was The Hotel Santa Maria. A former convent, it now houses 19 rooms that overlook a charming courtyard filled with orange trees. It was a quiet and peaceful little oasis in the middle of the city. Great breakfast each morning and happy hour in the afternoon.

Since we arrived to our hotel by early afternoon, we spent the rest of the day exploring Trastevere. We grabbed lunch at Das Poeta, an amazing Pizza Spot just a few alleys away from us. Wandered the streets, ducked into a couple churches, and had our first dinner at a restaurant directly on the Piazza Santa Maria.

We had four days in Rome and we tried to fit in as much as possible…..we found the market at Campo Fiori and marveled at the Egyptian Obilesk (3500 years old) in the center of Piazza Navona. We stood in awe of the Pantheon and watched the sun shine in through the oculus. We fought the crowds to get a glimpse of the Trevi Fountain and snuck under the city to see where the water arrived at Vicus Caprarius and found the Art Nouveau courtyard at Galleria Sciarra. We made it out to Galleria Borghese, one of the few times we chose a taxi over walking, but we had to get there for our 4:00pm reservation. And oh my goodness, what a gem this museum is. To see Bernini’s Rape of Proserpina and how Neptune’s hand makes marble look soft as it presses into her thigh. And the metamorphosis of Bernini’s Daphne as she is transformed into a laurel tree at Apollo’s touch. So many pieces on display of one of my favorite artists…Caravaggio.

Amazing how realistic
The Pantheon

We loved visiting the Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola. When you look at the church from the outside, you see the roof is flat, but inside you get a totally different feeling. The ceiling has a false dome, and 3D ceiling with angels all painted by Andrea Pozzo.

The Colosseum was spectacular. We got there early and beat the crowds and the heat. You can gaze at this structure for hours and wonder about all the events that took place here. The Roman Forum was fun to wander around and get the sense of ancient Roman life. The Vatican Museum was magnificient. We also arrived early and by the time we got to the Sistine Chapel we had no trouble finding a seat on the side and just gaze up at each panel. Just so sad we were not allowed to take pictures. St. Peter’s is ginormous and so awe inspiring. And we got to see  La Pietà, by Michelangelo, the only work of his that he signed.

 La Pietà, by Michelangelo.
Ahhh, the Colosseum

We loved Rome and all its antiquity….the Eternal City will live in our hearts forever!!!

Dinner in Trastevere

San Juan, Puerto Rico and a Return to Vieques

“I’ve got a Caribbean soul I can barely control…” – Jimmy Buffet

“Meet me in Old San Juan, where everything is muy chévere!” – Anonymous

It has been six years since we last came to Vieques. And in that time we have traveled the world, lived overseas, and are no longer travel virgins. It is now 2016 and time to return to this sleepy little island.

We flew from Seattle to Miami, and then directly to San Juan, Puerto Rico. But before we ventured onward to Vieques, we had to make time to explore Old San Juan. We booked a couple nights at Hotel El Convento. Built in 1646 it first served as a home for an order of Carmelite Nuns who lived in poverty and silence. The nuns vacated the property in 1903 and it was left for ruin. It was saved in 1962, purchased by Robert Woolworth, heir to the Woolworth fortune, and turned into a luxury hotel. Everywhere in the hotel is a feeling of sophistication and elegance, all the while keeping the Spanish features of the original convent. And it is situated just steps from the Old Town.

Hotel El Convento

As soon as we checked into our room, we were off to explore Old San Juan. Built in 1521, Old San Juan still has the feel of those early colonial days. The streets are narrow with buildings stacked right on top of each other. The homes painted bright tropical colors many with Juliette Balconies and fancy ironwork. The streets are laid with these captivating blue cobblestones, found only here in San Juan. The cobblestones came from the ballasts of the sailing vessels and are made from furnace slag, called adoquines. They say the blue, which intensifies with moisture, is a tribute to the blue waters that surround the island.

Whenever there are forts, we find them. And there are two very well preserved forts in Old San Juan, Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristóbal.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro is an imposing structure built at the point of land overlooking the entrance to the harbor. This fortress consists of 6 levels facing the Atlantic Ocean, all of which were designed to create a devastating artillery fire over enemy ships. Construction on the fort began in 1539, and in 1595, while still under construction, the fort was attacked by none other than Sir Frances Drake. The Spanish were able to repel that attack, and many others over the years to follow. And today visitor roam about this well preserved fort.

Castillo San Cristóbal was built to defend the city from the land and was the largest fortress in all of the Americas. Besides the well preserved fort, there is also a museum on the property holding artifacts and telling the stories of battles of yesterday.

And of course whenever we visit a new city, we must sample the food.

First we had to try Mofongo, a traditional Puerto Rican dish made from mashed green plantains, garlic and chicharrón (fried pork skin) It was DELICIOUS!!!!

and the National Dish of Puerto Rico, Arroz Con Gandules. It is rice with pigeon peas (grandules) mixed with onions, peppers, garlic, and cilantro, plus sometimes pork or chicken. Again, truly delicious.

And sample food and drink we did!!!

We loved Old San Juan, but now onward to Vieques and relaxation time. We chose Vieques Air again, but this time we flew out of Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport, the main airport in San Juan. And we weren’t there at midnight, but during the early morning and the airport was bustling. We still had to be weighed and were led out to the plane, same model as before, a Britten-Norman Islander. To our surprise, our pilot was young and never once had to refer to a manual for instructions. Our flight to Vieques was smooth and uneventful. We made our way to Maritzas Car Rental and picked up our Jeep Wrangler, four wheel drive and able to get us to the far corners of the island. For accommodations we again chose Evamer Studios and Bungalows, but instead of the tiny room or the upstairs room with the leaky windows and doors, we selected the larger suite at the top of the property, complete with a large deck, bedroom, sitting room and bathroom. Lovely.

And then we set about reaquainting ourselves with the beaches and sites of the island.

Everyday we were on a beach, soaking up as much sun as possible. The beaches were still gorgeous and uncrowded.

Horses still roamed wild.

We even invented a game, similar to horseshoes, but instead of the iron shoes we used coconuts. Two posts were pounded into the sand about 30 feet apart. A circle drawn in the sand around each post. Each contestant had three small coconuts. The goal was to get your coconuts the closest to the post. Points counted if you place them within the circle. We played this game for hours. People would pass and watch, quite the hit!!!

We explored the fort in Isabel Segunda, El Fortín Conde de Mirasol, also known as Fuerte de Vieques. Built in 1845 and restored in 1991. There is a little museum and the views from the fort are breathtaking.

And we found the remains of the old lighthouse, Puerto Ferro Light, also known as Faro de Puerto Ferro. It was built in 1896 and help guide many a ship through the Vieques Passage. The lighthouse was abandoned in 1926. The remains sets on a rugged outcropping of rocks, high above the rough surf below.

And we wandered along the malecon.

And ate at all our favorite restaurants.

And we had to say hello again to the old Ceiba tree.

We absolutely loved returning to Vieques, the location of our first “International Excursion”. It will always hold a special spot in our hearts.

Until next time!!!!