Bob’s Version:
Bali again, the island that blends spectacular mountain scenery and beautiful beaches with warm, friendly people, vibrant culture, and feelings of contentment. Kim, Kathy, Cindi took leave of Kuala Lumpur for five days on Bali with Heidi and me. Instead of fighting the crowds of Kuta and Sanur Beach or the art scene in Ubud, we headed to the north of the island to a tiny village near Singaraja for a stay at Villa Manuk.
See here: Villa Manuk

We were met at the airport by our driver, DeWa, loaded our luggage into a separate car, piled into the van, made a quick stop in Denpasar to exchange money, and we were off. DeWa took us the scenic route, by-passing Ubud, skirting the rice terraces, and stopped for a pit stop high above the huge Mt. Batur caldera at about 1,500m above sea level. Dramatic views here of the active Mount Batur volcano and serene Lake Batur. Simply spectacular!!!

The girls all needed to use the restrooms. Okay, not as clean as you might hope, but really, is a feces smeared toilet reason to put a damper on such a trip? I think not, but the jovial chatter that was abundant at the beginning of the journey somehow became terse. I’m guessing it might have been the toilet, or perhaps the narrow, narrow winding roads, or maybe the 3 hours on the road, not really sure but onward we trek!!!! Only two more hours and all will be forgotten. Down we go, hairpin curves, tea groves, little homes clinging to cliffs, villages, deep jungle, views of the ocean . . . time to soak in the views, to gather images on the emmulsion sheets of our minds . . . making memories to be sure. Finally we ventured into the tiny village of Desa Bebatin. Streets wide enough for only one car, children running barefoot, clothes hanging to dry, stands selling durian and rambutan, chickens daring you to pass.

We stop in front of a narrow alley, push our bags over cobbled stones, through a rustic gate and into a little bit of paradise. Only four rooms at Villa Manuk, each one unique. No air conditioning – it’s cooler up here. Beds are enveloped with mosquito netting. Bathrooms are half indoors/half open air. Porches with views of the rice fields and mountains. Natural spring-fed swimming pool between the buildings, outdoor dining facility and a small “spa” area. The grounds behind include fruit trees, a working garden, a turtle pond and even several durian trees.

The owners own a restaurant in Singaraya and bring up the dishes for our meals. Delicious, washed down with wine. Early the next morning, just as the sun rose, I went walking along the road. I stopped and helped a farmer weed his rice paddy (just had to get my feet muddy) He thought I was quite funny. Watched another man climb a palm tree to cut down some young fronds. Stopped by an elementary school just as it was starting. Everyone eating breakfast out of wooden bowls, dressed in their uniforms. They all practiced their English on me. “Hello Mister” “Good Morning Mister” “You have any money?” “Goodbye, goodbye” I think I could stay here forever, buy a little place and just melt into the village life.

Heidi, Cindi, Kim, and Kathy’s Version
Are we there yet?

One of the highlights of our trip to KL was the chance to visit the exotic island of Bali. “It’ll be great,” Bob told us, “I picked a highly recommended place to stay, only an hour and a half from the airport.” Imagine our surprise when we asked our driver how long it would take to get to Villa Manuk, and he replied, only 3 hours.

Our road trip began on a narrow, windy Bali street with motorcycles zipping in and out between the cars. We soon learned the Bali signal for here I come…a gentle beep of the horn was all it took to warn drivers we were passing by. We think the “Bali Beep” will come in handy when we get home. Entertainment along the way consisted of counting the number of people a motorcycle could hold, and judging the creativity, variety, and enormity of items one is able to carry on a motor scooter. Did you know that five people or one kitchen can fit on the back of a bike?

Three and a half hours later, the entertainment factor was waning.Our driver stopped at the top, and we mean top, of the mountain to see the breathtaking view, use the tanda, and grab some snacks. Cindi and Heidi had to make two attempts completing their bathroom mission. Heidi, desperate as usual, covered her nose and forged ahead. Cindi retreated and had to wait for the snack stop in hopes of finding a cleaner restroom down the road. And on we went, because what goes up must come down. We began our descent down the mountain, through the terraced rice fields, and past small villages. Cindi and Kim’s faces became greener, due to lack of cool air and being thrown side-to-side in the back seat of the swaying van. As the countryside became more remote, our facial expressions began to show concern. “Just where is this place?” We asked as Bob maintained his stoic composure. We thought he was avoiding our questions as he chatted away with our driver. Four hours had passed when the Villa’s owner began a series of phone calls, wondering where we were and if we wanted dinner when we arrived. We ordered our meals in hope that we must be getting close.

Finally, we turned off a nice blacktop road and in a matter of minutes we encountered a rain forest, rice fields, and primitive villages. The roads became narrower, steeper, and rougher right before we entered an even more primitive village. We all laughed when Kim exclaimed, “Now this is what a Bali village in the movie Eat, Pray, Love looks like.” A few meters later, the van stopped in the middle of a dirt road and the driver said,”Here we are.”

We looked at each other with concern, glanced at the small houses by the Villa Manuk sign, turned back to the driver and said, “Where?” He pointed toward the narrow, grassy path between the two houses. We started down the path, past the chicken in a basket, beyond a homemade shrine, and opened a creaky metal gate which led to our final destination, Villa Manuk.

Our first impression of our rooms left much to be desired. Bob was apologetic and very patient with four women who were extremely hot, tired, and hungry.With a nice glass of wine, and a little time to cool off, we were able to see the rustic charm of the Villa. Soon we became enchanted by the quaint rooms, the unique open air bathrooms,the delicious food, and the warmth of the staff. Exploring the surrounding fields and the lush, green hilltops, we witnessed Bali life, including men hand-building a rock wall and a woman washing her family’s laundry in a nearby stream. In the end, we feel blessed to have experienced the unspoiled beauty of the authentic Balinese culture. Good job, Bob, and thanks for the memories!
(written collaboratively by Kim, Kathy, Cindi and Heidi)