I know it might seem that all we do is go to one holiday after another. We really do work, it’s just when we do get a break we like to get out of town and see more of this world. Kuala Lumpur happens to be a real travel hub with easy connections to all parts of SE Asia.

It’s our Fall Break….wanted to find a place where we could just kick back, soak up some sun, and wile away the day with a book and a cold drink. Off to the Indonesian Island of Lombok and the tiny island of Gili Meno. Time to relax!!!!

We had never heard of Lombok before arriving in Malaysia, but it is a gem of an island in Indonesia just east of Bali. A bit larger in size than Rhode Island, quite mountainous (Mt. Rinjana soars up to 12,224 feet), and home to close to 4 million people. Lombok is what Bali was 30 years ago. Most of it is still untouched, or at least just lightly bruised. Unlike Bali, there are no 8 million visitors touching down each year, no bumper to bumper traffic clogging the streets, drunk party-goers, and nightclubs complete with bubble shows. But you can see the wheels of change chugging forward. We’re glad we got a glimpse of it before all the tourists and developers have their way with it.

The airport was recently moved from close to the coast to a spot far inland. While right now there are only 4 gates, you taxi up the same runway you take off, and no Starbuck yet to hold you over while waiting for your plane, things have been build with expansion in mind. The landscape around the airport was dry and parched due to a recent drought. The further north you go, the greener it gets.

We drove through Mataram, the island’s capital and largest city (about 500,000). Mataram is a sprawling city without a single high rise. Streets were congested here, narrow and full of activity. You see as many horse drawn carts as you see motorbikes. Once through Mataram we passed through villages as we headed north. Tired workers lounged on covered platforms that line the road and act as umbrellas to protect them from the blaze of the noon time sun. From shelves on every roadside house fruit, moped fuel, nuts, and drinks are sold to anyone willing to stop. Along the way we passed rice paddy fields where women stood in conical hats, casually tending the rice while their babies ran naked through puddles. Occasionally you’d see tarps covered with rice or fish set out to dry in the sun.

We continued north west to Senggigi, the closest thing Lombok has to a holiday resort. Lombok is predominately Muslim (over 80%), and unlike the Hindu culture on Bali they frown upon bikinis and happy hours. It is tolerated in cities like Senggigi and at the coastal resorts but modesty is the expectation when rubbing elbows with the locals. Each morning (sometimes starting as early as 4:30 am)and several times during the day, loud speakers at the mosques broadcast the daily prayer. We heard a tale of a hotel owner who suggested at a village meeting that they turn down the volume just a skosh during the morning prayer. He was immediately arrested, he received death threats and his villas were looted. A word to the wise….get to know the culture!!!

Lombok is known for their weavings and we stopped at a village to see it in action. Women sit on the ground all day weaving on these looms that are created to provide back support. Designs are mostly geometric and brightly colored. Homes in the village were pretty much small shacks made of woven mats. Animals were kept is small pens attached to the homes. Little kids wandered freely around. We found out schools are prevalent but as you go up in grades there is a cost to attend, thus many cannot attend beyond the primary grades. Many villages do not even have a school. So very different from home.

We spent our first three days at a lovely resort by the name of Jeeva Klui (means “The Soul of Klui) Our room overlooked the Bali Sea (Indian Ocean to the south) and we were treated to amazing sunsets each night. The food was terrific….a mixture of Western fair and local favorites. Lombok means “chile” in Indonesian Bahasa so you can expect to find some fiery dishes. The spa at Jeeva Klui was up on the hill with the rooms open to the ocean below. The thing we loved the most was sitting right above the ocean while we ate dinner, nursed our happy hour drinks, or sipped on morning coffee.

After three days of doing absolutely nothing, we headed to Gili Meno. The drive north was spectacular as the roller coaster road hugged the coast providing spectacular views to the Gili’s and Bali in the distance. A twenty minute boat ride brought us to Gili Meno, one of three small islands off the coast of Lombok, Gili Air, Gili Meno, and Gili Trawangan. Gili literally means “small island” in the local Sasak language. Gili Air was the first island to become popular with tourists. Today is is rather quiet and caters to families and divers. Gili Trawangan (Gili T) is the largest of the three and is known as the “Party Isle”. Years ago it got a bad, but deserved rap, as a place for the young to come and party the night away. Lots of drugs and drinking, and everything else that goes along with those two. Illegal use of ethanol in drinks led to a number of deaths but slowly the island is cleaning up. We were still able to hear loud music each night echoing across the narrow strait separating Gili T from Gili Meno. Gili Meno is the smallest and least populated and known as the “Honeymoon Isle” There are no cars, no motorcycles, no motorized vehicles of any kind. People get around by walking, biking, or using these cute little carts (called Cidomo) drawn by these hard-core, tough ponies. Everything must be brought to the island by boat. We saw men carrying hundred pound bags of cement from one boat. Another brought in water jugs and took out the empties. Mainly it is the women who unload the boats, balancing prodigious weights on their heads while the men sit in the boats smoking cigarettes.

We stayed at a wonderful boutique hotel, MahaMaya (Ultimate Paradise). The rooms were built around two small pools (one for families and one for adults complete with a swim up bar) The hotel is right on the beach and meals served at tables only feet from the water. The restaurant was wonderful….breakfast was complimentary, lunch specials were heavenly and the dinner Greek salad was truly special. The only down side was no hot water in the rooms….you get used to it and after lounging in the hot sun the cool water actually feels pretty good. Many places only have salt water showers so we considered ourselves lucky.

A small sandy path (wide enough for the Cidomos) circles the island and Heidi and I walked it in a little over an hour. Along the way you pass little bars, restaurants, and an assortment of places to stay…little grass huts and tents to beautiful resorts like MahaMaya. The east side of the island is more built up than our side with the main dock and medical clinic. Inland is where the locals live. There is also a large salt water lake in the interior. They still evaporate water in tarped pens to obtain salt. Tied up along the beach are colorful Jekung fishing boats with bamboo outriggers. Divers and snorkelers coo over the coral and fish they discovered. At night we listened to the croaks of the tokay geckos, marveled at the Milky Way above and waited patiently for the electricity to go back on after one of the many momentary blackouts that occur during the night.

Divers come from all over the world to the Gili’s for the crystal clear water and the abundance of fish and coral. I made two dives during our stay. On one I was treated to this cheeky juvenile eagle ray. These rays usually swim in groups and are rather timid….not this little guy. He seemed to love the interaction with humans and swam over and around us for what seemed forever. Cute little face, he would wrinkle up his nose as he looked at us. Also did my first wreck dive. Amazing coral and sponges everywhere. Saw my first lion fish and went as deep as 23 meters…amazing!!!

Heidi and I returned with a coppery tan, fully charged batteries, and quite content to have finished two books each!

Next up…Kota Kintabalu.

Parting shot:

CFC…look familiar? Perhaps this is Crunchy Fried Chicken? You see this all the time…similar logos but not the same!!!!