We wanted to stop in Singapore for a few days on this trip as this city holds some special memories for us. Whenever we needed something close to America, we would come to Singapore. You can drink water from the taps. Cars stop for you when you are in a crosswalk. Traffic is orderly. English is spoken by everyone. Time here gave us a sense of home. So for old-time sake, back for three days we came.

One of our first stops was to Raffles Hotel and Long Bar. Long Bar is where the Singapore Sling was invented. If you go to the Raffles Hotel web site, the following is the description of how the drink came to be.
The Singapore Sling, widely regarded as the national drink, was first created in 1915 by Raffles bartender Ngiam Tong Boon. Primarily a gin-based cocktail, the Singapore Sling also contains pineapple juice, lime juice, curaçao and Bénédictine. Giving it the pretty pink hue are grenadine and cherry liqueur. Bartender Ngiam deliberately chose to give the cocktail this rosy colour.

Following the turn of the century in colonial Singapore, Raffles was the gathering place for the community – and Long Bar was the watering hole. It was common to see gentlemen nursing glasses of gin or whisky. Unfortunately for the ladies, etiquette dictated that they could not consume alcohol in public. So, for the sake of modesty, teas and fruit juices were their beverages of choice.

Ever insightful, Ngiam thus saw a niche in the market and decided to create a cocktail that looks like plain fruit juice but is actually infused with gin and liqueurs. The clever bartender made the beverage pink to give it a feminine flair which, together with the use of clear alcohol, led people to think it was a socially acceptable drink for women. With that, the Singapore Sling was born. Needless to say, it became an instant hit.

You don’t dare litter in Singapore…a $300.00 fine the first time, subsequent offenses may result in court ordered cleaning a section of a neighborhood wearing a bright neon green vest. But littering in Long Bar is encouraged. On every table is a large sack of peanuts. The expectation is for everyone to brush the shells off the tables and onto the floor.

It was fun sitting in this historic bar, but it also put a little dent in our wallets….$30.00 for a Singapore Sling!!!! Ouch. Singapore in general is one expensive city.

From Raffles we went looking for another bar…the Atlas Bar. This bar was built in 2002 and pays homage to the art deco architecture in America and Europe in the late 1920’s. Beverage highlights include elegant European cocktails and one of Asia’s finest collections of gin, spirits and champagnes sourced from around the world. Such a rich atmosphere to enjoy a drink.

Besides littering, there are some other no-no’s in Singapore. Spitting carries fines of $500.00 and community service. Don’t dare bring cigarettes into the country, huge fines for having unpaid duty cigarettes in your possession, as well as fines for smoking in public places. Vandalism can bring caning punishment…some leniency if one is over 50 years old. Drug possession, buying or selling, can bring the death penalty. Jay-walking can get you a $50.00 fine or a month in jail. There are fines given for not flushing a toilet and don’t dare urinate in an elevator. Some Singaporian elevators are equiped with urine detection technology…the doors will lock until the police come to arrest you. And don’t ever feed the pigeons unless you want to give up $500.00. There is a reason Singapore is one of the cleanest cities in the world.

The first night we arrived in Singapore, we were sitting at an outdoor restaurant on Clarke Quay when we looked up and saw a Chinook helicopter carrying a massive Singapore flag flying over the downtown skyscrapers. And then out of nowhere came five F-15 fighter jets thundering overhead. Next a large transport plane accompanied by two more fighter jets. And then a single fighter jet roared into view and rocketed straight up over the city, leveled off, completed a few twists and jetted off while our hearts were thumping away!!!! We learned that Singapore National Day is August 9, and for the five weeks prior to this Independence Day, they practice. We were lucky enough to be here on a practice day, and that night watched the practice session of the fireworks and laser show. If this was just practice, wonder what the actual event will be like!!!!

Outdoor art abounds in Singapore. Seems there is a sculpture around every corner.

We also went in search of a Hawker Stand that received a Michelin Star for the Chicken Rice dish they serve. Imagine that…a Michelin Star for a humble hawker stand. Tells you something about the street food in Singapore. We used trusty Google maps to find this little hole in the wall. If it wasn’t for Heidi’s eagle eyes we would have missed it. We stood in line for about 10 minutes, grabbed our chicken rice and a couple of Tiger Beers….have to say we were a bit disappointed. Guess we were expecting more with all the award hype….but we checked it off our bucket list, explored Chinatown, and walked on for further exploration.

When it was time to go, we planned our departure so we could explore the new addition to Changi Airport. For the past five years, Changi Airport has been noted as the best airport in the world, and with good reason. There are two movie theatres, a two level butterfly park, separate parks featuring sunflowers, cacti, orchids, and ferns. There is a swimming pool, a gazillion restaurants and shops, big open spaces where kids can roam free, and people in purple blazers there to assist you with any problem that might arise. Customs and security are a breeze to clear as the efficiency speeds you through. And I swear the baggage distribution system works at the speed of light. But on top of all of that, a new section has been added across the street from Terminal One. It is called Jewel, and no security is needed. Inside this huge glass building are five stories of shops and restaurants and smack dab in the middle surrounded by trees and plants is a waterfall like you have never seen in your life. We paid a small fee to enter the glass walkway on the fifth floor. It is like walking on air and we timed it perfectly as a waterfall show commenced. Smoke, water changing color, lasers, and music…spectacular!!!! Only in Singapore.

All we had left to do now was board Japan Airlines (business class…ahhhhh), fly to Tokyo for a 10 hour layover. Stored our bags and went into town….to Ueno and the Zoo…Had to see the Panda’s and the resting spot for the elephants killed during WWII….but the zoo was closed. So we walked about in the pouring rain, grabbed a Starbuck’s Mug and a Tokyo Ueno Hardrock pin, and dashed back to the airport.

Then onto another flight (business class again) for the final leg home. This was a special trip for us…time to connect with dear friends, time to explore old and new, and time to say goodbye to a special corner of this world.

Selemat Tingal, Southeast Asia. Terima kasih for everything!!!!

We’ve always wondered what Bali must have been like 30 years ago…before the crowds of tourists, before the traffic jams, before the growth. Well, I think we found the answer when we drove to Sidemen. This little village is set in a lush valley in the shadow of volcanic Mt. Agung. When our car entered the village, we had to pull over to the side of the road for a funeral procession. It appeared like the entire population of this 300 person village marched through the street on way to the graveyard. The coffin, draped in white and flowers, was carried on the shoulders of 20 or so strong men. Women and men were dressed in traditional Balinese sarongs. Music was played, people were smiling…it was a celebration, not a mourning. While Balinese law used to dictate a body must be burned within two weeks of a death, this village often waits months, until 10 or so bodies have accumulated. Funerals are expensive. Bones/bodies are dug up and cleaned and then there is the cremation ceremony. The cremation is followed by a feast. After the corpse(s) have been burnt, mourners collect the ashes of the deceased which are offered to the sea in a final ritual. It is believed that once the soul has been purified by fire which represents earth, it must be purified by water so it may return to heaven to begin the process of reincarnation. According to tradition, the deceased returns to human life in the form of the next born family member after these rituals. White is the color of mourning.

This was our introduction to Sidemen. It is quiet here and all around you are fields and terraces of rice and vegetables. Little shacks offering shade to cows dot the fields. And everywhere is green…green rice plants, green, dense jungle with green palm trees jutting toward the skies. Fields are plowed by hand, with oxen and plow. It is like time has forgotten this valley. It is good to know there are still spots in the world of ours like this.

We stayed in an amazing 21 room boutique hotel owned by the Balinese people called Wapa di Uma. We had this room with an outdoor shower, a marble soaking tub, and our own infinity swimming pool. We looked out over the river and over to the Sleeping Elephant Hill. Magical. And the spa here was way too cool….the massage rooms were open to the air, the breezes and the sounds of birds.

Each day we trekked through the rice fields, across rivers, up and down terraces. We came across families taking baths in the river, cleaning clothes in the canals, or just resting in the shade. And always you get a warm Balinese smile. Two elementary age children cleaning dishes in a canal tried out their English on us…”Hello, How are you?” Me, “Very well, and how are you?” Big smiles and then, “Pretty good. giggle, giggle, giggle.”

Perhaps because we are getting older, or maybe we have old souls, but these few days here in Sidemen were by far our favorites. It is so restful here and life slows down. It took our ears a bit to get used to the quiet, to hear the songs of birds and chirps of crickets. You feel your body just relax. We hope Sidemen can stay this way, but we know it won’t. Just glad we had the opportunity to soak it all in. In months and years to come, I’m sure we will be able to close our eyes and remember this slice of serenity.

And with all journeys, this one comes to a close. Tomorrow we will fly to Singapore for a few days, and then home.

Goodbye Bali. Thank you for the memories.

Our trip to Kuala Lumpur was to connect with friends, to visit, to eat and visit some more. Our trip to Bali was just to relax…and eat, and eat, and eat some more.

We stayed first in Ubud, rented a little airbnb villa with our own pool. At most Airbnbs, you are pretty much on your own, so we were so surprised that we had a 24 hour attendant to look out for our needs. Breakfast was served to us each morning, cooked in our outdoor kitchen. Our bed was made up daily complete with towels folded into swans. The entire villa cleaned spotless. And once, when I got sick, a scooter ride to the pharmacy. Now that is service!!!!! And the cost was $90.00 USD per day.

Eating Our Way Through Bali
While in Ubud we visited several nearby waterfalls and temples, a coffee plantation, hiked Kapuhan Ridge, and we ate at some pretty amazing restaurants, world class restaurants.

Going to a waterfall in Bali is quite a bit different than say hiking to a falls in Mt. Rainier National Park. Most of the falls are owned by a village and it becomes a commercial venture. There is usually an entrance fee and they’ll be attendants to steer you into a parking lot. Next you will need to walk by shop after shop selling touristy what-nots, food, and drinks. Once you make it through that gauntlet, you start down the path to the falls. Along the way you will find photo props like big hearts made out of twigs or giant bird nests where you climb in and have a pic taken. And at the falls you will need to use all your patience to catch a shot of the water cascading over the precipice without all the Instagram hungry posing this way or that. But the falls are beautiful and usually worth the effort.



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Temples are everywhere in Bali, in fact there are more temples than there are people. Every home will house numerous temples where they pray and give offerings. There are local temples that range from village temples to those with great Balinese significance. There are many smaller temples like irrigation temples set in rice fields. You usually enter a temple from the south through a split gate called a candi bentar. Most temples will be enclosed by walls and will consist of at least three courtyards. There is much meaning and significance to the courtyards. Appropriate attire is required at all the temples and usually they have sarongs to rent or borrow. Depending upon the temple, there can be huge crowds. We were going to go the Pura Luhur Lempuyang, The Stairway to Heaven Temple, that has this amazing view of Mt. Agung framed between the entry gate. But we heard there was up to a 5 hour wait just to get your chance at a picture in front of the gate. Regrettably we chose to forego that visit.

And now onward to the food…..

Apéritif
Apéritif is what you might call a cozy, high-end destination dining in Bali. It is located at the premiere luxury resort Viceroy Bali tucked on the side of a lush remote river valley just outside Ubud. We started the night at another restaurant at the Viceroy called CasCades….wanted to grab a cocktail before dinner. We were sat at a bar table overlooking the most amazing valley as we watched the jungle turn colors with the setting sun. It was here we found the best tasting mojito of the trip.

We were then provided a ride to Apéritif in one of the Viceroy’s passenger carts. You enter through this gorgeous hallway and are led to the bar for your aperitif. We chose to sit on the deck instead of in the bar…the view is beautiful. It was here our dining experience began. First a couple of drinks…our Apéritif. Then came three different appetizers, each one more spectacular than the next.

Then we were led into the dining room…a large elegant space with the most modern, stainless steel kitchen you have ever seen. We got to meet Chef Alex, the pastry chef, and sample one of his creations. At our table we selected the 8 course (it turned out to be about 16 courses) degustation menu complete with wine pairings. And then for the next couple of hours plate after plate of this most amazing food came to our table, often accompanied by a chef to explain everything to us. And with each course along came Madhe Yudiana, the sommelier, with our wine pairing. And the pours were not small. So we already had a couple cocktails, and now we were drinking glass after glass of wine from all over the world….our livers got a good workout!!!! For the Venison Wellington, Head Chef Nic came to our table to serve us. We aren’t fans of venison, but we loved this version. Service at Apéritif is stellar; a most pleasant combination of Indonesian friendliness, European sensibility, and Japanese efficiency. We left fat, satisfied and more than a little tipsy!!!!

Locavore
Next up for us was Locavore, set right downtown Ubud. Locavore has been listed as one of the top restaurants in the world….this year was number 26 in all of Asia. It is much more of an intimate experience, smaller in scale, but with the same dedication to fine dining using locally source ingredients. A good friend of ours knows the chef here at Locavore, and while he was too busy to come and talk with us, unbeknownst to us, he had the wait staff add additional courses to our meal. So sweet!!!

When we were seated, the first thing that came to our table was a plate filled with edible flowers. Our waitress told to enjoy!!!! We ate our way through the flowers and there, under all the petals was the menu…SURPRISE!!!! So creative.

We chose not to go with the wine pairing, instead selected drinks from their custom cocktail list. And then, like at Aperitif, plate after plate arrived at our table, each one creatively plated. I think we had at least 5 desserts. We rolled out of this restaurant with contented bellies and sober enough to walk back to our villa.

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Cuca
Last, but certainly not least, was Cuca. We have been here 5 times and it never gets old. Located down in Jimbaran, about an hour drive from Ubud, we arrived early enough to take a walk on the beach and grab a cocktail at the Sunset Grill at the Intercontinental Hotel. There on the grounds of the hotel we caught the last ten minutes of a mass wedding. Approximately 50 couples from China all got hitched at the same time. The ceremony had more of a game show atmosphere complete with balloons and a rousing send off. Then it was down to the beach for after-wedding photos!!!!

The Sunset Bar and Grill is another one of our favorite spots. You take your flip-flops off and let your toes dig around in the sand, sip on an adult beverage or two, and watch the sun set into the sea. Doesn’t get much better than that.

At Cuca we sat overlooking the kitchen…love the see the action. The food is tapa syle with flavors that just pop in your mouth and always so fun. We met with Chef Kevin (thanks again to our food blogging friend) and he treated us to a tour of the restaurant and after dinner drinks on the outdoor patio. He is such a great guy….loved his vision, his passion for creating exceptional food, and his zest for life.

It is time for us to say goodbye to the hustle and bustle of Ubud. Next stop will be the peace and serenity of Sidemen.