“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” – Anthony Bourdain

The COVID grasp on the travel world has loosened and we were ready to jump into the skies and jet to places unknown….and for an even better excuse, we had to do something BIG to celebrate Heidi turning 60. So what better way to celebrate than a trip.

First stop, Devon, England….but before we get there, a little back story. When we were in Chania, Crete a few years ago, we stayed at this cute boutique hotel, La Maison Ottoman https://www.lamaisonottomane.com/ Heidi and I were enjoying a glass of wine in their little courtyard. Across from us were these two gentlemen also drinking some wine, so of course we started up a conversation and quickly became fast friends.

Robert was a radio personality and manager of several radio stations in Belfast, Richard worked hospitality at numerous high-end hotel chains and was most recently in charge of housing at a large university in Belfast. Well, they decided to quit their jobs and purchase a Bed and Breakfast, Highcliffe House https://highcliffehouse.co.uk/, in the little English town of Lynton….their plan: they would work like dogs seven months out of the year, close up the B&B for the winter and travel (their passion and love) the rest of the year. Quickly they have made the B&B the top rated bed and breakfast in all of the UK. Quite the honor!!!! When we learned of their purchase, we knew we had to visit.

But one more backstory before we get to Lynton. This is a story that will plague us most of the trip, not derail us, but definitely put some obstacles and challenges in our way. The day before we were to depart from SeaTac, I stubbed the toes on my left foot….barefoot slamming against a very solid table leg. It really hurt and the pain didn’t dissipate after an hour or so like most stubbed toes, but I thought it would go away and went about the business of packing and getting everything ready for our departure. The next day we drove across the mountains to SeaTac. Our flight was changed at the last minute and instead of flying directly from SeaTac to London, we now had to fly first to Vancouver BC and then to Heathrow…putting us about 2 hours behind schedule. Passing through security, I was required to take off my shoes. In doing so, I momentarily lost my balance and the heel cup of the shoe caught on my injured toe, pulling it upwards rather sharply. Stars were all I saw and tears filled my eyes….I mean it really hurt. But I made it through security and somehow put my shoes back on. Heidi could tell I was in pain, but not wanting to let anything get in the way of this special trip I told her I was fine, just a stubbed toe. I then got to sit for quite some time as both our flights were delayed and then the nine hours over to Heathrow…and now we were 4 hours late and wondering if we would be able to make it to Lynton before dark. On the way to the rental car company, Heidi asked if I needed a wheelchair, again, “No, no, no, I’m fine.” So slowly towards to the car rental place we did go, sans wheelchair, and soon we would be on the road for a four hour drive to the coast…..but we were soon to find out the injured toe was only the beginning of our medical woes.

The road to Lynton began by exiting the London suburbs along a four lane highway…an easy way to get used to driving again on the left side of the road. Occasionally Heidi would mention I was “drifting” and I’d make the necessary corrections. Seems the further away from London you go, the narrower the roads become. Long stretches of road with no shoulder, just rock walls on either side. Not a worry until a lorry or tourist bus comes at you. One would think they would slow down, but no, they go on their merry way and you cower behind the wheel hoping you don’t either crash into the oncoming vehicle or scrap all the paint off the side of your car on the rock wall. Pins and needles we were on as the sun slowly dropped lower and lower on the horizon. We drove the last mile up a steep, teeny, tiny road wide enough for only one vehicle, and there was Richard waiting for us and showing us where to park. WE MADE IT !!!!

Highcliffe House is this AMAZING bed and breakfast, perched high on the hill above Lynton with commanding views of the Bristol Channel looking toward Wales. Located just minutes from Exmoor National Park, the Valley of Rocks, and many more wonderful hiking spots. We made ourselves at home in the Myrtleberry Suite on the second floor.

Then next morning we plan to visit a castle, but besides my aching toe, I have now developed a terrible cold, thankfully not COVID, but an awful cold and to top it off, I have lost my voice. But we have a castle to visit and miles to drive on a twisty, curvy road. The drive, stressful as it may have been, was absolutely gorgeous. High above the Bristol Channel the road hugs the coast as you traverse through Exmoor National Park. Looking inland you are greeted with a patchwork of farms, and flocks of sheep, and an occasional village. After about an hour of driving we make it to Dunster and its famous castle.

The original Dunster Castle was built shortly after William the Conquerer came to power in 1066, made of thick timber…the only thing remaining from this building is the imposing iron-bound oak doors. Stone walls were added but it wasn’t until 1300’s that the castle we know today took shape. Two different families went on to own this castle and spent exorbitant amounts of money to make it a home to show off. The castle was eventually given to the National Trust in 1976 and is open for tours for all to see its grandeur. You can wander through room to room, many kept in the same manner as years ago. And the grounds are spectacular with miles of trails and even an old watermill.

Next day we decide to just wander about Lynton, a really cute little village sitting on the ridge above it’s sister city Lynmouth. No voice again today, so Heidi does most of the talking. We begin by wandering the streets of Lynton, the type of village you think of when you envision a British countryside town.

Along the way we stopped at a pharmacy for some tape for my toe, and then made our way to the Valley of Rocks, an absolutely stunning site just outside of town.

Last, but not least, we decide to ride the world’s tallest and steepest water powered railway down the face of the cliffs to Lynton’s twin city of Lynmouth. An engineering marvel of the day, it opened for passengers on April 7, 1890, and today still runs in the same manner saving hundreds of passengers the long, steep trek up and down the hill. What fun!!!!

Last day in the Devon area, we hop in the car and make our way south to the town of Clovelly. Located on the coast, this little village is owned by a Lord, the residents all pay rent to the Lord to stay there, and no cars are allowed. To get to the village you must walk down a rather steep cobble-stone road, a little slick when wet. Each home has their own sledge to carry items up and down…and don’t ever dare borrow another person’s sledge without their permission!!!! Every house is adorned with flowers….roses, fuchsias, Calla Lilies ….just picture perfect!!!

We now must take leave of this beautiful little corner of England and we say our goodbyes to Richard and Robert. On our way now to London, but one more stop on the way; Stonehedge!!! You can actually see the stones from the highway, but we wanted a closer look.

Next stop, LONDON!!!!