“Wine is the most civilized thing in the world.” — Ernest Hemingway.

A few years ago, on a whim, we decided to take a drive north of the border to explore the wine country in the Okanagan region of British Columbia. “Just for the day”, we said, “to see what it is like.” Once we crossed the border, our first destination was Moon Curser Vineyards – a choice feuled by both the intriguing name and the captivating story they shared. During the Gold Rush days, unscrupulous gold-smuggling miners would cross the border, all under the cover of night, trying to avoid custom agents at all cost. Often, the light of the moon would foil their plans, shedding light onto their surreptitious travels and activities….Curse you moon!!!!! Besides their captivating narrative, we found we also loved the wine and the breathtaking view down to the lake.

“Let’s keep exploring!”…. off to nearby Nk’ Mip Cellars (pronounced “In Ka Meep”), the first indigenous owned winery in all of North America. The wine here was also good…so let’s try another….backtracked to Young and Wyse Collections for their Cab Sauv, then to Bordertown Vineyards and Estate Winery, located right off the highway. As the day unfolded, our enjoyment surpassed expectations, prompting us to extend our adventure into the night. A quick visit to the local grocery store for toothbrushes (we hadn’t planned to spend the night so we didn’t pack anything), followed by a check-in at the Nk’ Mip Resort (a sprawling hotel and casino), a delightful dinner at their restaurant, and we finally called it a night. Next morning bright and early we zipped back home in time for Heidi to be at work by 7:30 am, and made a vow to return soon.

And return we have, once or twice a year, always finding new wineries and places to stay and eat. We truly love this unique wine growing region of British Columbia. Similar to Wenatchee and Chelan, once known for growing apples, the Canadian Okanagan was world renowned for growing peaches. In both locations, grapes have surpassed the tree fruits as the predominant agriculture crop, and wineries are popping up all over the place.

Oliver

Just north of Osoyoos, is the town of Oliver. Oliver is home to over 40 wineries and calls itself ‘The Wine Capital of Canada’, and rightly so. Grapes grown here on the Golden Mile Bench enjoy a warm climate and it’s location on the west side of the valley gets morning, rather than afternoon sunshine, making it a little cooler than the Osoyoos area just south.

We found the greatest little villas here to stay, Hester Creek Villas. It is our preferred spot to stay. There are only 6 villas, each with a commanding view of the valley below. The rooms are exquisitely decorated, you are greeted with a complimentary bottle of Hester Creek wine, and each morning a scrumptious breakfast is brought to your room….hard to beat. They book up months in advance so you must plan ahead. Plus the winery at Hester Creek is amazing and their on-site restaurant, Terrafina, serves up delicious meals.

Some of our favorite Oliver Wineries:

VinAmité Cellars- A small family-owned winery right off the main highway. The first time we stopped here we sat on their sunny back deck, sipping some excellent viognier, gazing at the vineyard below. Over time we have become friends with the servers and regularly trade wines.

District Wine Village – On the North Edge of town is the District Wine Village. It was built with a local community mindset, to celebrate artisan production and craftmanship. Currently there are 12 small boutique wineries nestled around a center stage (used for ice skating in the winter). We have found several wineries here we really like. (Apricus, Winemakers CUT, and Gneiss)

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery – Another winery with a great story. In 1980, the Burrowing Owl was declared extinct in the BC Province. Since 2002, Burrowing Owl Estate Winery has donated over one million dollars toward the captive breeding program, and now the numbers of Burrowing Owls have continued to grow. Each year approximately 50 breeding pairs of yearling owls are released into the wild….quite a success!!!! And they make great wine here, plus they also have villas (we are staying in one later this year) and on on-site restaurant, The Sonora Room.

Stone Boat Pinot House – Another family owned winery that specializes in Pinot Noir…really delicious Pinot Noir. And one of the servers, Ove, entertains us with his tales and stories.

Others we have visited and enjoy: Maverick Estate Winery, Church and State Wines, French Door Winery (really great Rose), Intersection Estate Winery, Nostalgia Wines Inc.(Formerly Oliver Twist), River Stone Estate Winery, Rust Wine Co., Platinum Bench Winery (and they make fantastic artisan bread), and Tinhorn Creek Winery (they have an amazing restaurant here, Miradoro)

We also visited Silver Sage Winery, Phantom Creek Estate (a little too pretentious for us), Road 13 Vineyards, Red Horses Vineyards, Kismet Estate Winery, Jackson Triggs Okanagan Estate, Covert Farms Family Estate Winery, and Black Hills Estate Winery. So we still have about 20 more to visit!!!!

Okanagan Falls (OK Falls)

North of Oliver, just as you pass Vaseux Lake, you take a right on Oliver Ranch Road and head up to a little valley full of vineyards and wineries. We happened upon this area just by chance and discovered several wineries we really enjoy. Bonamici Cellars is a small winery owned by two families. Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery boasts an amazing view down to the lake and they have a picnic area where you can enjoy a picnic lunch and sips. Our favorite in the area is Stag’s Hollow Winery where two female winemakers put out some excellent Albariño and Syrah. We stopped for lunch at a winery on the other side of the valley, See Ya Later Ranch.

Naramata

Probably our favorite area to visit is the Naramata Bench. Set up above beautiful Lake Okanagan, this area sports perfect soil conditions for growing about 50 different grape varieties. The vineyards cling to the hillsides and are blessed with long days of sunshine. We have found some of our favorite wineries here.

Black Widow Winery – Everytime we would drive past this winery, Heidi would say, “No, I don’t want to stop there, I hate spiders.” But we kept hearing how good their wine was, so we overcame our arachnophobia and made our way into this amazing winery. The recommendations were spot-on, for the wine is delicious and well made, and the staff is so knowledgeable and friendly. We now can say we love Black Widow!!!!

Marichel – Excellent Syrah here, not the big, bold Syrah you find down in Walla Walla or Red Mountain, more of a medium-bodied temperate Syrah, but still with that slight peppery taste. The small little porch is a comfy spot to sip and take in the stunning view down to the lake.

Lake Breeze Winery – We always stop at Lake Breeze, for their delicate wines but also to eat at THE PATIO, their on-site restaurant. The tables are shaded by trees and vines, the food is sooooo good, all farm to table, locally sourced. Once seated you just don’t want to ever leave!!!

Upper Bench Winery and Creamery – We come for the wine, but also for their cheese, and in the summer, for their wood fired oven pizza!!!! Pizza and Pinot Noir, such a good combination!!!

Other wineries we have visited and just love:

Bench 1775, Deep Roots, Hillside Winery and Bistro, La Frenz Estate Winery, Lang Vineyards, Poplar Grove Winery, Little Engine Wines, Roche Wines, Terra Vista Winery, Serendipity Winery, Tightrope Winery, Nichol Vineyards, Therapy WInery, Van Westen Vineyards. And we still have a few more to visit!!!

When we stay in Naramata, our choice of accommodation is Villa Magnolia, three tastefully decorated rooms overlooking the deep blue waters of Lake Okanagan.

Summerland

Each time we go, we tend to venture further and further, trying out new areas, new wineries. Last trip we made it to Summerland, on the west side of Lake Okanagan, pretty much right across the lake from Villa Magnolia. We enjoyed the wine at 8th Generation Winery, had the patio all to ourselves. Ventured up into the hillsides above Summerland to visit Silkscarf Winery, Lunessence Winery and Vineyards and Thornhaven Estate Winery. Had delicious Pizza and Sauv. Blanc at Dirty Laundry Vineyards. 

We’ll be back again this year, ready to try out some of our favorites and explore new spots….heck, perhaps we’ll venture further north to try the whites in the Peachland and Kelowna area. Wine tasting is just a fun way to spend time together and explore beautiful spots in this world.