Split, Croatia

“There is nowhere to go but everywhere.”
– On the Road, by John Kerouac

We had quite a drive from Bale to Split. The highway system in Croatia is excellent, quite a few toll roads, but worth it if the money goes to keep the highways in such good shape. On the trip we were using Google Maps when the tunnel we were to go through to get under a mountain was closed, and Google Maps gave us no alternative. So we thought we might as well try going over the mountain and that is what we did….up, up, up and up some more, Google now directing us toward Split. At the crest we were afforded views down to the sea all dotted with islands, and then we descended down a steep, curvy road and then Google told us to turn right….down what looked like a goat path, barely wide enough to fit our little car. Trusting Google, we ventured down the path, around some corners and then..BAM!!! There was the highway, and shortly there after we came into Split.

Split is the second largest city in Croatia, after the Capital Zagreb, and home to almost 200,000 people. It is rather industrial and I hate to say it, but most of the city isn’t all that attractive. But down by the harbor is the Old Town and home to Diocletian’s Palace, Marjan Hill Park, cafes, restaurants, and the ferry terminal. We stayed a little ways out of old town at the TIME Boutique Hotel. We turned in our car rental, checked into the hotel and then made our way outside, ready to explore. We love walking, wherever we go, we just let our legs lead us. You see the most amazing sites.

Diocletian was the only Roman Emperor to retire, and since his childhood home was near the current city of Split, he chose here to build his retirement palace. No expenses were spared on this home and it was massive, fortified and a jewel of Roman engineering. Now during Diocletian’s reign, he was not very nice to the Christians. He destroyed their churches, and to those who would not renounce their religion, he would arrest, torture and kill them. But the Christian got the last laugh, for when Diocletian died, he was interned in a huge mausoleum he had built for himself. The Christians, when they came to power, broke into his tomb, threw his body out (never to be found) and turned the mausoleum into a church. The palace eventually became part of the town, the palace evolved into homes and shops and the town expanded all around it. Today the old palace is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is free to everyone to enter and see what is left of this once opulent palace.

Marjan Hill is an oasis of a park just outside of town. We walked all the way up to the top for a 360 degree view of the city, mountains and islands below. This is such a people park with a zoo, walking paths, beaches, benches, and theatre. It was so fun to meander up the steps and to experience this urban park.