Author Archives: buskbob

BITTERSWEET BALI

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Bittersweet Bali

Sweet…because it is Bali. Because we are celebrating Heidi’s principalship. Because we have upped the ante in luxury. Because we have four days of just being together.

Bitter…because it will be the last trip we take together here in SE Asia. Together we have gone all over Malaysia, to Cambodia, Thailand, Indonesia, Borneo, Singapore, Vietnam… and next year Heidi will not return. We will be half a world apart. So we will savor this time together.

We stayed at Jamahal Private Resort and Spa. Jamahal used to be a private residence. The owner built it so his extended family and friends could come and visit and have their own place and privacy. With a few modifications, it has now become a luxury resort with 13 rooms.

From the minute we were picked up at the airport, we felt like we jumped into the “life of the rich and famous”. While neither rich nor famous, we were made to feel like it. In the van we were given chilled, jasmine scented washrags to wipe our faces and cool off. Chilled ice water quenched our thirst. A quick 15 minute drive and we entered the gates of Jamahal. Immediately we were met by three attendants to carry our luggage and welcome us by name. Once seated at the reception area, we were given two flutes of champagne and met Dhita. Dhita has this over-the-top personality that keeps you laughing and interested at the same time. She showed us around the place and then brought us to our room.

We entered through a carved wooden door set into a tall wall. Once inside you hear the waterfall feature to your right. The path forward led through our garden, under a tall frangipani tree, skirted our pool, onto our deck and then to our “room”. Our “room” turned out to be ginormous. A large living room with flat screen tv, entertainment system/sound system, refrigerator, fresh bowl of fruit and massive couch. To either side were bedrooms and bathrooms. To the right was the extra room and instead of a bed there were two massage tables set up. A full bathroom with tub, rain shower, double sinks, etc. To the left was our bedroom with a canopy bed and similar bath set-up, but our massive stone tub was filled with warm scented water with bougainvillea petals and frangipani blossoms floating on top. We think we will be happy here!!!

It rained every day we were here, but the purpose wasn’t sight-seeing, it was to spend time together. Each night before we retired, we ordered our breakfast for the morning. And right at the requested time our doorbell rang. We pushed the entry button and in came our “butler” with breakfast and the morning Jakarta Post. We sat on our porch, protected from the rain, drank freshly brewed Indonesian coffee and fresh-squeezed orange juice. We always had a bread basket, usually eggs with bacon, yogurt and fresh fruit. About 45 minutes later, back comes the butler to pick up our plates and take them away. We did the same for lunch. We think we could get lazy and fat real fast here!!!!

We LOVED our stay at Jamahal. We were able to unwind, relax and just enjoy each other’s company. We were quite content just lazing away the days.

DINNER

We actually did pull ourselves away from our villa for dinner. Friday night we crossed the street (quite a feat….the streets in Bali are narrow and you would think you could just scoot across no problem, but there is a steady stream of cars and scooters making crossing a most difficult task) But each time we wanted to cross, out popped one of the Jamahal security guards, whistle in mouth and red flag in hand. Right into the traffic he would venture, whistle a-blowing. It was like the Red Sea parting, and across the street we went. The Indian Ocean and the beach is down a side road, perhaps a quarter of a mile. Jamahal has a beach club there but we wanted to sit and have a drink at one of the nice bars bordering the beach. Of course we had to dip our toes into the ocean and then walked down the beach to the InterContinental Hotel. We had a few drinks as we watched the sun set and then made our way in the dark to Cuca’s Restaurant.

Cuca’s is quite famous in Bali. The chef, Kevin Cherkas, cut his teeth at El Burri Restaurant on the coast in northern Spain. This restaurant has over 1 million reservation requests each year, but only 8,000 lucky ones get a table. Following El Burri, Kevin was head chef at the Shangri La Hotel in Kuala Lumpur, until he and his lovely wife Virginia opened Cuca in Bali. Sourcing only local ingredients and experimenting with molecular gastronomy, Cuca is a place where you want to pick your plate up after each course and lick it until you are sure you have consumed every last morsel and drop. It has “to die for” food. One of our teachers at school is a food reviewer and unbeknownst to us, she contacted Kevin and Virginia ahead of time and told them we were coming. When we entered the restaurant, they knew us immediately and brought us to our special table. Covered with rose petals and several long stemmed roses, we were seated in full view of the professional kitchen. Virginia came by to personally welcome us. We had the “rich and famous” feeling again and at the same time felt we were judges on The Top Chef. For soon our plates arrived. We each ordered three dishes and they came out one at a time. I cannot describe the taste but we have never had such delicious, mind blowing flavors in our lives. We were so full at the end of our meal we did not have room for desert, so we came back on Sunday. On Sunday we were seated at a long bar like table overlooking the kitchen. Each plate was brought to us by the chef and he explained how everything was made. We watched in awe as the crew of 11 chefs whipped up dish after dish. This time we saved room for three desserts. Heavenly desserts. I don’t know if we will ever taste anything better in our lifetime.

Dinner at di Mare

Saturday night we took a taxi to di Mare, a restaurant high upon a cliff with probably the best sunset views on the entire island. Unfortunately for us it was raining….but we had the restaurant to ourselves, enjoyed good food, and of course, the company. We enjoyed watching the waves crashing upon the beach below.

Massages

Of course we had to treat ourselves to massages….once in our villa and then once in the spa. The girls knew what they were doing…we felt so relaxed. The one in the spa was a two hour hot stone massage….so fine!!!!

As they say, all good things must come to an end and so did our stay on Bali. But we have memories that will stay with us for the rest of our lives and time spent together….priceless.

Vietnam – Hoi An

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The train dropped us off in Da Nang.

During the 60’s, Da Nang was used as a major US airbase. The airport at that time was one of the busiest in the world. Today the Da Nang International Airport sits on the site of the old military airstrip. Some of the old reinforced concrete quanset hut hangers are still being used to house fighter jets. Da Nang has grown up a lot since the sixties and is quite modern with new glass and steel high rises. A river runs through town and six different bridges have been built over the water including one that looks like a dragon. At night this bridge changes color and each Saturday at 8:30 PM crowds come to watch the “Dragon” blow smoke, fire, and water. Da Nang hugs the coast and is home to one of Vietnam’s most picturesque beaches, a white sandy 21 mile stretch of beach nick-named China Beach by the American troops. Today it goes by Da Nang Beach or Non Nuoc Beach or My Khe Beach. High end resorts have sprouted up along the shore as well as spas, restaurants and golf courses. Very little is left to remind one of the days this beach was used for R & R for the troops.

Our destination is the lovely city of Hoi An. We stayed at Anantara resort, right on the river. We booked riverview rooms and they were exquisite. We all made afternoon plans…Heidi, Nanci and Gregg wanted massages, Jamie chose to lay by the pool, and I went exploring.

Anantara Resort

Hoi An
Hoi An is simply a jewel. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this ancient city is so well preserved. The “old part” of town is free of cars and scooters, walking and biking only. Tailor shops are EVERYWHERE. Heidi was measured for a dress in the morning and it was done that evening. They are masters at sewing. I do believe Heidi came away with several skirts, some funky pants, and the dress. Jamie chose jewelry and tops. I got art work. And we all selected several silk lanterns. Hoi An is famous for their beautifully crafted bamboo and silk lanterns. Shops are everywhere and the colors mind boggling. We actually had to purchase another suitcase to bring them home. Great places to eat. Art galleries. Museums. A vibrant farmers market. A jewel of a city.

Faces of Hoi An

Lanterns

The Market

Free Hoi An bicycle tour
Jamie stayed by the pool but Heidi, Gregg, Nanci and myself signed up for a free bicycle tour of nearby Kim Bong Island. Led by college students trying to perfect their English, the tour gave us a chance to see some local life. Hanh was our guide, a 21 year old student majoring in English. She was adorable, smart, witty, and took her job seriously. She led us through the streets and traffic to the dock and our ferry to the island. Once on the island we stopped at a boat making shop, a wood carving shop, a school, a temple, a noodle making shop, and a home where they make sleeping mats. The trip is advertised as free but we did pay a an amount to present to the people we visited. For all the wonders we found in Hoi An, the reality is it is situated in one of the poorest provinces in the country. Apart from the glamour of the tourism-enriching little town, there is much poverty.

Lantern Festival
We arrived on a full moon so we were able to partake in the lantern lighting festival. You purchase these candles in a basket and set them into the river after making a wish. Very lovely!!

Hoi An Misc.

We all fell in love with Hoi An. One guidebook described Hoi An as “Warm-hearted and welcoming” We couldn’t agree more. Truly a gem!!!!

Vietnam – Halong Bay

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Next morning, bright and early we board a bus to Halong Bay. We will be traveling on the V-Spirit for a two night cruise.

Ha Long Bay is located in the Quang Ninh province of Vietnam and since 1994 has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The name means, “Descending Dragon Bay” and is a very popular tourist destination. The bay features over 1600 islets or “Karsts” as they are called….limestone islands rising out of the sea, all different in size and eroded over the years by the sea and elements. Many have caves and lakes, some have tunnels you can kayak through only to end up in fairy-tale lagoons. Most of the islands are uninhabited and left pretty much in their natural state.

Our boat was one of many that make the one night journey. We booked three cabins, all with a small balcony, Jamie got a room all to herself and a small cockroach. We shared the boat with a great group of people, twenty all together. They all seemed to love to travel and marveled at the beauty of the bay.

The first day we cruised into the bay for about two hours before anchoring for the night. There was an opportunity to visit a cave, to swim and to climb one of the Karsts (one with a pagoda at the top) The evening brings a nice dinner and jigging for squid. In between we got to know our companions (a mother and daughter from Germany, two young American women whose military husbands are based in Japan, a middle aged couple from Australia (he celebrated his birthday on board), a group of five from Melbourne (there used to be six in this bunch but one husband recently passed away…first trip without him), a Swiss couple and our favorites, Richard and Cecile from Provence, France.

The next morning, the five of us plus Richard and Cecile boarded a smaller sister boat and took off deeper into the bay. The rest only signed up for one night and will return to the docks after kayaking and spring roll making lessons. Tomorrow we will meet the boat at the same spot but with a whole new group of people on board.

We loved the second day. We left the touristy area where all the boats anchor. It seemed like just us and the islands…peace and quiet. We stopped for some kayaking. Went through these cool caves and entered turquoise blue lagoons. One cave was so long all was black…couldn’t see where we were paddling. Went around a bend and presto, another lagoon. AMAZING !!!!

We then motored to an island sporting a calm bay. This was to be a two hour stop to swim and relax. We all wanted to swim but the water looked cold. We heard it was cold. And the deck was warm and comfortable. Then Gregg decided to do a perfect dive off the top deck. The dam was broken and the rest of us committed. Yes, it was cold but not Lake Chelan cold. Actually refreshing but salty, really salty. We are all so glad we made the plunge.

Next up was a trip to a Pearl Farm…educational for sure, but at the end you “get to” go through the gift shop. We did not buy. Finally rendezvoused with the mother ship and met our new mates. Completely different group…a large group of thirteen from Taiwan celebrating one of their group’s birthday (not sure how many bottles of whiskey they brought on board), a couple from New York and two women from Australia. That evening we sat on the top deck with Richard and Cecile drinking wine and playing SPOOF, a game Richard taught us. When we were finally ready for bed, the group of 13 took our spot and partied til 1:30. What a difference a day makes!!!

We enjoyed our trip, made new friends, and saw a wonder of the world. We are worried about this bay. Motoring out to the outer islands we saw just an immense amount of trash. Not sure where it is coming from but the sea was filled with all sorts of garbage. I hope the concept of a clean environment makes it to Vietnam and SE Asia.

That night we boarded a train to make our way overnight to Da Nang. We bought five tickets in a “soft” sleeping car. There were only four bunks to a room so I volunteered to go “single”. First in my berth I patiently waited for my bunk mates. First came a 20 something French girl. She was also in a group of 5 and drew the short straw. Next came a Canadian girl, on vacation from teaching English in a Korean Hagwon. And finally, my last companion for the evening ride, a Spanish woman from the Basque area of Spain traveling around the world. I do believe she lost her deodorant somewhere back in South America. The doors closed. The odors trapped inside…me, three women and no escape!!!! The “soft” mattress was just a little more comfortable than a plank of wood. The car rocked and rolled. This was going to be a long night!!!! Next door, the air conditioner kept Gregg and Jamie in the top bunks nice and cool but never made it down to the lower berths so Heidi and Nanci sweated like pigs. It was going to be a long night. But we did it for the experience, not the comfort. We are really missing the Sofitel Metropole!!!!

Around 8:00 the train stops at the ancient city of Hue and my three bunkmates depart. I air out the cabin and lie down hoping to get three hours of fresh air and perhaps a bit of shut-eye. But then the door opens and in plops a young Vietnamese man. The body odor wasn’t quite as bad as my Basque friend but it was close. Remember, we did this for the experience!!!

As we neared Da Nang, the train climbed a small pass. Down below we could see the ocean and empty sandy beaches hugging the shore. Made it to Da Nang at 11:30 am. Time to catch a taxi to Hoi an, our last destination.

Vietnam – Hanoi

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Vietnam….everyone tells us Vietnam is the place to go…for friendly people, for delicious cruisine and coffee, for culture, for amazing sites….go to Vietnam.

So Saturday at 3:00 am in the morning we pile into the taxi and off to KLIA 2 to catch the 6:10 am Air Asia flight to Hanoi. Nanci and Gregg, Jamie, Heidi and myself settled into seats 1 B,C,D,E,& F respectively and jet to Hanoi. Now prior to the trip I obtained on-line VISA’s for our stay. You complete a mess of paperwork, submit, and then you receive your applications for entry and exit to Vietnam. You have to affix a special size photo to each form. Our photographer must have used a carnival lens for all our photos were hideous. Heidi NEVER wanted to see hers again. You then take these forms with you, along with the official acceptance letter to the VISA upon-arrival desk in the Hanoi Airport, along with your $45.00 USD per person. Guess who forgot the letter? Yep…but we put on a sad face and they took pity upon us, told us to sit down and wait while they processes everything. About 10 minutes later we hear Heidi’s name called over the loud speaker and there on a big screen TV is her “beautiful” photo…you know, the one she never wanted to see again!!!! Not only did she get to see it again but so did the entire waiting room full of people. We paid our fees, collected our passports and went through the passport check…..we are now in Vietnam!!!!

The airport is brand spanking new…just beautiful. We loaded everything into a nice van and off we tooled to the Hanoi Sofitel Metropole Legend…the nicest hotel in Hanoi.

The morning was cool and rather foggy…a welcome relief from the heat of KL. Along the median of the highway were scores of workers weeding the gardens all by hand, all of them wearing the famous Vietnamese conical hats. As we entered the city we are surrounded by motor scooters…everywhere were motor scooters. Hanoi has a population of approximately 6.5 million, Vietnam about 89 million and there are almost 40 million scooters!!!! Another thing you notice, NO STOP SIGNS!!! Absolutely NO stop signs. You come to an intersection and everyone just takes turns and somehow it all works out. There is a constant beep, beep, beep as people in cars want the scooters to move over, or the scooters want the bicycle riders to move over or the bicycle riders want the walkers to move over. AMAZING. What was even more amazing than watching the traffic was trying to cross the streets on foot. We were told, “Find a little opening (as in a space between cars) and then just start walking”. The cycles all just weave around you, you stop for a car, you walk again and before you know it you are on the other side. It actually became fun. Jamie was a natural !!! Heidi needed a little hand holding but soon became a seasoned street walker. (not that kind!!!!)

The Sofitel Metropole Legend
Oh what a hotel !!! Opened in 1901 it has be the chosen hotel for Kings, Presidents, entertainers and sports stars visiting Hanoi….John Denver, Bill Clinton, Brad Pitt and Angeline Jolie, Stephen Hawkins, Joan Baez, Jane Fonda and the list goes on and on and on. The rooms are exquisite, the service over the top!!!! We were soooo pampered. We really didn’t want to leave. See here for their website: http://www.sofitel-legend.com/hanoi/en/

Hanoi
Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, is in a constant contradictory state. Its tree-lined streets hold a blend of colonial French architecture and traditional Vietnamese buildings mixed with modern and chic. The town has a charming chaos to everything, yet at the same time there is an element of grace and elegance. The streets are packed with people, the sidewalks extensions to the business and home, the streets alive with vehicles. The people extroverted and friendly.

We spent the day trying to get lost in the Old Quarters. This maze-like neighborhood is organized by product. One street may specialize by selling only bamboo ladders…all the shops on the street sell ladders. Turn the corner and the next street everyone sells tombstones. Another street; women make-up and perfume. Another; rope or tin works or flowers. You never know what is around the next corner. The only thing you can be sure of is you will be surprised.

Most of the shops keep their doors open and everyone spills out onto the sidewalk. People pull up little plastic stools, they eat their lunches and dinners, they babysit their kids. They practice their English with you. At night, the sidewalks and parks are the place to be. We saw break dancing, badmitton, hacky sack sharing, families walking about, people playing cards, drinking beer, roller blading. The streets are the meeting place, the living room for the masses.

No where and at no time did we ever feel any ill-will toward us as Americans. We were welcomed and treated with the utmost respect. As you saw on the old bomb shelter, the words: REMEMBER FORGIVE FOREVER echo the feelings of the majority. Like most Asian countries, the Vietnamese would rather look forward and not dwell on the past. You must remember there are different perspectives to any event. Here in Vietnam, the Vietnam War is known as “The American War”. One person we talked to said they of course remember as there are still many innocent people who suffered the effects of Agent Orange and the brutalities only war can bring. But that chapter is closed in their book. They have forgiven. They have moved on. They look toward brighter days.

Everywhere we went there were brides and grooms getting their pictures taken. We must have seen 75 different photo shoots around the city, and this isn’t even the “wedding season”. They seem to have a lot of fun finding unique and interesting locales for their photos.

The food…OMG, the food is amazing. Jamie and I grabbed a bowl of noodle soup. This sweet woman made up our bowl in a matter of seconds….freshly made noodles, hot broth, beef, egg and vegetables. We sat on the little red plastic stools and perfected our chop stick skills!!!!

We all loved Hanoi. Gregg and Nanci are wonderful travel companions. They are fearless, flexible, willing to go with the flow, and open to the wonders of travel. It was so much fun having them with us to share this new experience.

Parting Note: Some signs on billboards or advertisements we came across. Pronounced phonetically may give you cause to wonder:

Phat Dong
Duc Phuc
Hot Coc
Dat Ho
Dung Laundry (Gregg suggested their motto: We clean the crap out of your clothes)
Hon Bich

Perhentian Island Revisited

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We are heading to Vietnam next week, gonna give Jamie her fill of culture. So in order to balance out her trip we took a short father-daughter trip to Perhentian Island for some sun and surf. For you blog followers, you will remember an earlier stay Heidi and I made at Bubu’s resort.

Well, Jamie and I stayed at the same spot. We went snorkeling to the Baby Islands but the seas were so rough we didn’t get to the second island where the sharks and sting rays live. Jamie did get to see several rays, a couple of cuttlefish (looked like they were trying to mate), lots of “Nemo” clown fish, anemones, coral, sponges and fish galore. Water still a little cooler than bath water.

In the evening we hiked up the mountain with On, a local guide who took a liking to us. At the top are two large windmills built by the government to provide electricity for the island. Of course they have never worked. Next to the windmills is a large collection of solar panels, of course they have never worked. And then there is this amazing network of stairs leading down to the water. Of course the dock washed away years ago and has never been replaced. The whole area remind you of the “Dharma Initiative” from the series LOST. Pretty funny.

We also hiked across the island to Coral Bay. Coral Bay is a beautiful bay on the leeward side of the island….it is more of a backpackers haven and home to several dive shops.

On our day home the waves were so fierce the boat couldn’t dock at the Bubu side of the island and we had to hike across to Coral Bay for our morning pick-up. Jamie had quite an adventure and came away with a respectable tan.

Krabi, Thailand

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Chinese New Year brings a four day weekend….time to get out of town. A one hour twenty minute flight brings us to Krabi, Thailand.(craw-bee)

Krabi is on the mainland in SE Thailand, just north of the Malaysian border. It sits on the Phang Nga Bay which empties out to the Andaman Sea. Across the bay is famous Phuket Island and within the bay are over a hundred sea haystacks/islands. Krabi is one of the oldest settlements in Thailand, an old fishing village, but now caters to tourists, honeymooners, and rock climbers.
The geography of the area protected it somewhat from the horrific tsunami in 2004. A lot of the power of the waves had been dissipated by the time it reached the coastline here.
Even so the beachfront was devastated with rubble, smashed boats, and wrecked buildings. Today there is little to remind you of the terrible devastation that occurred over 10 years ago.

We stayed at Tubkaak Boutique Resort, a gorgeous spot right on the water. Our balcony afforded us a view to the water and gentle breezes all day long….the perfect spot for morning coffee. The bathroom sported an outdoor shower partnered to an outdoor tub. The mini bar was well stocked and everything in it was complimentary…..replacements you paid for if used. Two restaurants on site, traditional Thai and Italian. Both delicious. The pool was refreshing and the spa professional (no happy endings here) Heidi had her first Thai massage and came away relaxed and stretched. Thai massage is a little more rigorous that traditional massage. No oil is used and you wear these pajama-like outfits. Lots of kneading, muscle compression, yoga-like positions….pretty cool.

Up early on Friday, breakfast at 6:30, meeting a long tail boat at 7:30 for a trip to Hong Island. Koh Hong is a 40 minute boat ride across the bay from our hotel. Since we left early we were the first to arrive. We stepped onto a pristine powder-like, white sand beach with torquoise water and massive rock outcroppings soaring up out of the water.

Koh Hong is uninhabited, except for the birds, white-faced gibbons and giant monitor lizards that can be often spotted on the main white sand beach (at quiet times, at least). Its interior is home to a large lagoon (the “chamber” to which its Thai name “Hong” refers). This is best accessed at low tide by kayak, as the diminishing water level makes its colour change drastically from a deep emerald green to a clear turquoise.

We staked out a spot half way down the second beach and enjoyed the peace and quiet, an island all to ourselves. And then, like slow arriving guests to a wedding, the crowd began to appear. A couple here or there would motor up in long-tail boats much like ours. Then a speedboat full of 20 or more. Next a party of 6. And soon the floodgates opened and we had neighbors on both sides of us. SE Asia seems to be a playground for Europeans and Asians. Rarely an American in the bunch. Next to us was a group of Russians with skimpy speedos and thong bikinis. To the right a Chinese family, a French couple,and a party of 12 from Japan with two babies. The only other Americans we saw were a couple on a two week honeymoon from L.A. We’re kind used to being the only Yanks. Funny thing, when people ask where we are from, we’ll say, “Where do you think?” Invariably, they will guess Australia, or the UK….so rare it is to have Americans.

We stayed til 2:00. Our Long-tail boat driver tracked us down and informed us it was time to leave. Instead of heading straight back, he took us around the island….the western side was calm and sported numerous caves and soaring cliffs. On the north end, he suddenly turned toward the island and we were sure we were headed straight into the rock wall…but lo and behold there was a passageway between two sky-high cliffs and we arrived into this glorious lagoon. Limestone cliffs hovering on all sides….a hidden paradise like in the movie, The Beach.

Once we returned to Tubkaak we enjoyed a little pool time, a 90 minute massage, and dinner on the beach, toes in the sand, complete with a Chinese New Year firework show, the lights reflecting on the waters of the bay. We stayed until the waxing moon (what my daughter used to call, “a finger nail clipping moon”….just a sliver) slipped out of sight.

I Should Have Known Better
Saturday we signed up to take a “Four Island Tour”. Heidi said, “Are you sure? This isn’t something we usually do”. Of course…it will be fun and think of all we’ll see…four islands…FOUR islands.
Picked up at 8:00 am by a nice 12 passenger van….had it all to ourselves….seemed a little overkill for just the two of us. But four resort stops later every seat was full including a double-up in the seat next to us. I was beginning to fret.
Made it to the marina and were joined by another van load of people. All 25 of us were then loaded onto a powerful speedboat and we jetted to Railey Beach to pick up another couple….then off we sped, the wind whipping our faces, the sun keeping us warm, island sliding into view. I was cautiously optimistic. Soon we arrived at island number one….or should I say sand spit number one. There were so many people standing shoulder to shoulder on this beach I can’t confirm if there was any sand. We “got” 30 minutes to enjoy this horde of humanity. Heidi and I found some lonely rocks. Heidi didn’t have to mouth the words “I told you so” but they hung in the air like an inappropriate comment you can’t take back.

Next we made our way to Chicken Island. There are these unique rock outcropping that gives the island it’s name. We stopped offshore for a picture op, and then motored toward the cliffs to join the 30 or so boats at anchor. We were here to “enjoy” some snorkeling. All but me donned life preservers, slipped on masks and snorkels and floated around in pods….for most it was their first time and they were thrilled. This snorkel spot was almost devoid of life….a few fish here and there, the coral all skeletons. I found two giant clams but nothing more.
Back on the boat, the next stop Koh Poda. We get an hour here and our lunch. Hardest decision here was where to find an open spot of sand to throw down our towels. Heidi noticed a couple leaving and we quickly grabbed the vacancy. Once we settled I asked Heidi which direction she might suggest I look. To the right lying a mere three feet away was a beautiful topless Swede lying on her back. To the left a German woman on her stomach providing us with a great view of her thong covered (mostly uncovered) crotch. Heidi suggested I look out toward the sea.

Mercifully we made it to our last stop, Miracle Beach , a nice beach, caves and over 400 people. (I’m sure I’ve underestimated). By now I had expressed every version of “I’m sorry” to Heidi. She withstood everything with a smile.

The return to the resort brought another massage, another dinner on the beach, and quiet time just by ourselves. Note to self….stay clear of group tours!!!!

Our last day brought some down-time time by the pool, the completion of Gone Girl, another massage, and a final au revoir….for we shall meet Krabi again. A beautiful spot on the amazing planet of ours. We have become rather spoiled.

Funeral in Malaysia

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One of our dear maintenance workers passed away on Tuesday. He was only 59. This man was a gentle soul, a humble father of four, beloved husband, and dedicated employee at our school for the past 20 years. Each year he would dress up in his best robes and lead our International Festival Parade with his unique style of drumming upon handcrafted drums. He sang while he worked and danced everyone’s legs off at any school function. He will be missed.

As principal it is an expectation (and a personal desire)that I attend all funerals (and most weddings…but need an invite) related to our faculty and staff. Each one is so unique and different depending on the culture. This funeral was Hindu.

Since our employee died in the hospital and the cause known, no autopsy was necessary. His body was brought home, washed and dressed (he requested to be buried in his school uniform) and laid to rest on a mattress in the living room. All furniture was removed and everyone present had brought pillows to sit upon.

When we arrived the entire family was present. We removed our shoes at the door and were led into the room. Chairs suddenenly materialized and we were seated. His wife, dressed in her colorful wedding sari, flowers entwined in her hair, wrists adorned with bangles, and a red dot on her forehead indicating a married woman, was seated on the floor at his head. Across and next to her were their daughters. And filling the entire room were all the female relatives and friends, all there to support the living and to pay their respects. A Dewali candle and incense burned on the window sill. An Indian funeral song quietly played on repeat in the background. The sorrow palpable and thick. We brought with us large garlands of flowers (4 foot long) and placed them over the body. So many garlands had been placed over our dear friend you could only see his face. People took turns going up to him to say goodbye, to wish him well. Some wailed and cried, stroked his face, his head, kissed him goodbye. The men mostly waited outside under a rented canopy, mourning in their own way.

When it was my turn, I went and sat across from the wife. The entire room became silent waiting for my words. I gently placed my hand on his cheek and thanked him for his service and dedication, for his kindness and gentle ways. I shared how he made our school a better place and all of us better for knowing him. I said goodbye one final time. We then paid our respects to the children and wife and presented them with an envelope containing a collection taken at the school. We quietly departed by first touching his feet and saying a final prayer, then made room for others.

Later in the day the priest from the temple will come and say prayers. The body will be placed into a casket. At the same time the wife is taken aside, usually by other elderly widows. She is helped out of her wedding sari, never to wear it again, and is given a plain colored or white sari to wear. She is not to wear colorful sari’s again. The flowers are removed from her hair, shredded and placed in the coffin. Her bangles are removed and broken. The red dot on her forehead erased. She is now a widow.

Each culture maintains their own funeral protocols and customs. The Muslim funeral is different from Hindu, different from Buddhist, from Christian. It is an honor to attend.

What Do We Miss About Home?

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Today is one of those drop-dead gorgeous days here in Kuala Lumpur. Blue skies with nary a cloud, a gentle breeze, and clear, clean air. In fact, it’s been heavenly the entire month of January. Sitting by the pool this afternoon, Heidi and I began to talk of home, specifically what we miss. (excluding family and friends…that’s a given)

Here are our top five lists….

Heidi’s List
SEASONS – You do not see seasonal changes here…no chilly winters with the crisp biting wind, winter sun reflecting over fields of snow, no fall colors or fruit stands selling apples and pears, Smallwood Farms with pumpkins galore, or the newness of spring with crocus poking up out of the ground or cherry blossoms painting the orchards. It is continual summer in KL, with variations. Look at the weather report any day and you will normally see the following: 90 degrees high/ 74 degrees low, 83% humidity, chance of thunderstorms. In October and November we tend to get more rain, January brings blue skies and breezes, early March bring more rains, June and July get hotter.
COSTCO – There is no Costco here, or an equivalent. Nowhere to go to buy a case of 64 rolls of toilet paper, a gallon of ketchup, or that double pack of chunky blue cheese dressing you find in the refrigerator aisle. No giant warehouse with everything you need.
FREEDOM TO DRIVE – Heidi does drive and has her own car but it isn’t a carefree exercise. There is traffic, lots of traffic. You drive on the left side of the road. Motorbikes and scooters weave in and out and pass you on both sides. Traffic lights and stop signs appear optional at times. If you want to merge you have to be aggressive. Without GPS, it is hard to get around. You are always on edge.
CONVENIENCE – At home everything you need is right there….you go to Safeway and you’ll be able to find almost every ingredient you need a week’s worth of meals..all in one place. Here, say you need some Jif Peanut Butter. You may have to go to three or four grocery stores to find it. And when you do, you buy every single jar on the shelf for you may not see it again for months and months. Drinking water…besides the garden hose, you know it will be clean and safe at home. You don’t ask in a restaurant if the water is good to drink…you know it will be. In KL, you drink bottled water or you confirm the water is filtered. Convenience is missing, everything is here, you just have to work a little harder to find it all.
WALKING – In Wenatchee, Heidi would just throw on her tennis shoes and out the door she’d go for a walk. Sidewalks everywhere. Trails just around the corner. Here it just isn’t the same. Like most big cities there is an element of danger, a chance of being robbed. The sidewalks, if there are any, often have gapping holes in them. You may get a whiff of sewer now and again, there is a lot of trash. It is hot, so you time your walks for early morning or evening.

Bob’s List
BROWN SUGAR AND GRAHAM CRACKERS – If you make cheesecake, you need those graham crackers. Once promised a cheesecake at school and couldn’t find graham crackers ANYWHERE. Wound up finding a box of Teddy Grahams…hated crushing all those cute little bears!!!! Brown sugar is here, most of the time, but it doesn’t pack. It is in a crystalized form, large crystals. It is the same color, the same taste but just not the same.


BIKING – I miss my bike. I do see occasional bikers but they must have nerves of steel. There are more speed bumps here than the rest of the entire modern world. The bike is not respected here. Several of our faculty members have been in near death accidents. I just don’t want to take the risk. I miss those long miles on the bike. I miss biking to Lake Chelan. I miss ending up at the loop. I miss my bike.
MOUNTAINS – There are no Enchantments here, no Mt. Rainier, no Pacific Crest Trail. I miss getting up high, away from everything and everyone, smelling the pine and fir, the fresh air. Know you won’t get dengue from the mosquitos that pester you. Know the snakes make a rattle to tell you they are there. Here you cannot climb the mountains and gather their good tidings. (thank you John Muir). There is hiking and hills, just no Cascade Range.
BACKYARD GRILLING – I miss my Weber. The smell of steaks on the grill. Salmon on a cedar plank. Pork chops with rosemary and garlic. Mmmmm Mmmmm….oh how I miss my Weber.
SHOES THAT FIT – It is a rare Asian man that has a size 13 shoe, so stores do not carry them. I buy all my shoes at home and bring them here. I miss the abundance of size 13 shoes!!!!

Funny what you miss. Our next post will be what we find here that we don’t have at home.

In three weeks we are heading to Krabi, Thailand and Phi Phi Island. Should be fun.


Spring break we are going to Vietnam (Hanoi, Halong Bay, Da Nang, Hoi an) for a week!!!


Can hardly wait for that. Of course we will post and add photos.

Bangkok Temples

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I am back in Bangkok, recruitment time. After two days of interviewing, wining and dining candidates, I needed a little break.

I jumped on one the the water taxis. Forty baht (about $1.20) for a one-way trip from the Tha Santon Dock to the Tha Chang Dock #9 on the Chao Phraya River. These ferries are fast and crowded, sardine crowded. They pull into the dock, allow a pushing crowd to depart, and then those waiting on the dock make a mad scramble onto the boat. I never saw the attendants counting but all of a sudden they will put a stop to the flow of embarkers, a whistle is blown, the dock ropes removed, and off the boat goes…all in less than five minutes. If you’re not pushy you don’t get on and you wait about 10 minutes or so for the next boat. (I was way too polite the first time….second time I was elbow to elbow with everyone else.)

I have to admit, as I was crammed next to little old Thai lady, who kept stepping on my feet, and a family from China, I kept thinking of all those ferries you hear about capsizing because they were too crowded. Only way to get that thought out of my head was to focus on taking pictures of the river. We stopped at every dock (about 8 of them) and the same on/off process was repeated. Actually was pretty fun watching the flow of passengers.

Grand Palace

The Grand Palace is situated just off the Chao Phraya river. The Palace is in a walled 218,400 square meter site and the first buildings were erected in 1782 when the capital was moved from Thonburi to Bangkok by Rama I. The very best artists were gathered from each area over the country and they competed with each other over their skills. Successive kings built onto the original site.In 1925 the Royal Family stopped calling the palace their home but many official events are still held here. To enter you must have long pants and women must have their shoulders covered. I was warned not to talk to or make eye contact with anyone outside the gates. There are multiple scammers preying on the unsuspected…I had one man tell me they wouldn’t let me in with my flip-flops but he had shoes to sell me, “very cheap”. I didn’t bite and had no trouble entering with my flip-flops. Another told me I was heading in the wrong direction and if I would only get in his TukTuk he would bring me to the correct gate. Again, I didn’t bite and easily found the gate half a block up the road. People have to make a living.

The Grand Palace consists of four parts;
The outer part is the civil and military headquarters, the central is the King’s living quarters, the inner part is for female members of the royal family and their attendants, and another area is the royal temples.

I was unable to take pictures inside the temples and the Emerald Buddha, but was able to capture most of the exterior. Quite a sight.

Wat Pho – Home of the Reclining Buddha

Just around the corner from The Grand Palace is Wat Pho. This Buddhist Temple is also known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, but its official name is Wat Phra Chettuphon Wimon Mangkhlaram Ratchaworamahawihan…..now you know why they call it Wat Pho. Besides the resting Buddha, Wat Pho is also the birthplace of the Thai Massage.

The image of reclining Buddha is massive. He is 50 feet tall and over 140 feet long. His feet are 15 feet long and are inlaid with mother of pearl. When you enter the building housing the Buddha, you are given a cloth bag where you place your shoes and hat. You carry these with you. When you come to the feet and begin your walk along Buddha’s back, there are 108 bronze bowls along the wall. For a small donation you get a plastic cup full of coins to drop into the bowls. Clink, clink, clink…it sounds like a pachinko parlor with everyone dropping in coins. It is believed if you drop a coin into each bowl you will have good luck. I will be having good luck!!!

Wat Arum – The Temple of Dawn

After Wat Pho, I jumped on a cross-river ferry to visit Wat Arum or The Temple of Dawn. (Real name: Wat Arun Ratchawararam Ratchawaramahawihan….I’m so glad they shortened them) This is a Buddhist temple and the tall tower reflects the beams of the morning sun. (thus the name) It towers 282 feet and you can climb these incredibly steep stairs to two different levels affording you magnificent views of the river and city beyond. The stair climb is not for anyone afraid of heights or steep climbs..I mean these guys are almost vertical and it helps to have long legs for they are a good 18 inches tall, each one. You are winded when you get to the top. Short skirts are definitely not advised when climbing these stairs!!!! This temple was built in the early 1800’s and most of the carvings are out of stone. Pretty spectacular.

So much for touristy stuff…back to looking a files.

Siem Reap and Angkor Wat

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The plan was to run the Angkor Wat half marathon, but sometimes, even with the utmost care and preparation, plans can evaporate. When we were in Penang about a month ago, I tweaked my left knee. It progressively worsened as the days went on. Finally went to the leading orthopedic surgeons here in Kl.
Diagnosis: compressed cartilage in left leg due to bowleggedness! Yep…he used the term “bowlegged” 20 plus times as he was describing my condition.
Recommendation: break leg bones, realign bones and then use leading edge stem cell therapy to grow new cartilage.
Action: Ran (hobbled) out of the office as fast as I could and made an appointment to get a second opinion in December in Wenatchee. Gonna buy a horse!!!

With hotel and plane reservation in hand, we left for Siem Reap, Cambodia, sans running shoes. In a little over two hours we landed at Angkor International Airport. On the plane we were each handed an entry form to fill out. Just prior to entering the terminal we were given two more forms (health and a different entry) to fill out. Can you guess who forgot to bring a pen? Had to wait to use one of the seven “community pens”. They were attached to the tables with those elastic, spiral leashes, each one hopelessly entwined with another. When another person was writing, you had about 5 inches of free leash!!! Only when we completed filling out each form were we able to enter the terminal whereupon we found out we had to fill out another form for our VISA. We paid our $30.00 fee (they use pretty much only US currency in Cambodia) and then we were able to enter the country….the last ones through from our plane!!!!

Lon Chhin, our intrepid guide, was waiting for us. Chhin is just a jewel of a man. He was brought up in a small village, parents were rice farmers. He showed real promise as a student and was sent on his own to Siem Reap to attend high school. He wound up finding a place to live in a monastery and lived with the monks for the next 11 years. He now works as a guide. For an all day excursion he charges $30.00. He just saved up enough money to purchase a small piece of land where he hopes some day to build a house, marry and raise a family. Just a real sweetheart of a guy and so knowledgeable about the temples.

Chhin brought us to three of the over one hundred temples around Seim Reap. Our first temple was inside of Angkor Thom. Ankor Thom is a walled and moated former royal capital built in the 11th century. In its heyday there were over 250,000 people living inside the 3 square kilometer walled area. In the center is the Bayon Temple. It is known as the Temple of Faces. There are 37 towers and each tower has at least 4 faces. The walls of the temple are intricately carved with tales of battles with the Cham invaders and local life. This temple was our favorite…we wandered up and down the different levels and through catacomb-like passageways.

Bayon Temple

Next we went to Ta Prohm, also known as the Tomb Raider Temple thanks to Angelina Jolie. Chhin said he actually got to meet Angelina but knew very little English at the time and was too embarrassed to try to converse. (He said she was very pretty) This temple is famous for the Fig and Silk Cotton trees that have grown over many of the walls and buildings. It isn’t in the best repair, but little by little it is being restored. They recently had to cut one of the big trees down as it started leaning and the roots were pulling over a temple tower.

Ta Prohm

Last we visited Angkor Wat. It is completely surrounded by a hand dug moat, 200 meters wide and surrounds the 1 square mile of temple land. The dirt from the moat was used to elevate the temple building site. Angkor Wat was first built as a Hindu Temple but later converted to a Buddhist temple. During the 70s the Khmer Rouge occupied the temple..if you look hard, you can find bullet holes from this occupation time. Luckily they did not destroy the temple. The largest tower rises a good 65 meters tall. No building in Siem Reap may be taller. Angkor Wat is well preserved and the carvings and covered walkways are in excellent shape. It was by far the largest of the temples. Chhin made sure we came at 2:00 when the crowds had gone to rest from the heat. All we could say about this temple was, “AMAZING”!!!!

Angkor Wat

Siem Reap
Siem Reap is a great little city. We stayed at a cute little boutique hotel, The Rambutan Resort. Sixteen rooms built around a pool courtyard. It wasn’t five star but truly had charm. It was just two blocks away from the old part of town and all the markets. The center market was a hoot. Jammed packed with everything you can imagine. It is a working market, set up for tourists and local both. You wander up and down the alleyways. We found a working hair salon and right next door, and I mean RIGHT next door, they are chopping up pig’s heads and kidneys. There were live chickens, cooked chickens, chickens legs, skinned chickens, cut-up chickens, chicken innards, chicken eggs…chicken overload!!! Shoes shops, watch shops, manicures right next to vegetable stands. So funny and so much fun.

We wandered the streets and Heidi found several “awesome” clothing stores. She also got her first TukTuk ride. The TukTuks in Cambodia are different from Bangkok. In Bangkok they are one little vehicle, but here motor scooters are fitted with a hitch and a small trailer is coupled to it. They are everywhere….and cheap. For a thirty minute ride to the airport it was $5.00 USD.

We had dinner at a place called HAVEN. It is the number one restaurant in Siem Reap according to TripAdvisor. The owner takes on disadvantaged youth and teaches them how to wait tables and how to cook. After a year internship they are ready to enter the work force and a whole new group begins the training. Not sure how many young adults he has “saved” but fills your heart almost as much as the food fills your belly. We ate with our friends, had a nice bottle of wine, appetizers, main course and dessert and the final bill came to $52.00. You can live cheap in Cambodia.

Quite a weekend….a short two hour flight brought us to one of the true Wonders of the World and a whole new world. Quicker than a drive to Seattle!!! We’re thinking we may need to do a few more of these quick weekend trips….perhaps to Chaing Mai in Thailand, to Myanmar (Burma), or Vietnam. So close and just waiting for us to visit.

Parting Shot

Picture above our bed at the Rambutan Hotel.