I love short trips to New York; to me it is the finest three-day town on earth.’ – James Cameron

It has been quite a while since we visited New York, and I actually wasn’t going to blog about this trip, but Heidi, being much, much wiser than me, reminded me that our blog is a memory piece, a place we can return to and relive our travels and adventures, our experiences and escapades. So here goes…..

Spur of the moment, we went to New York City, the Big Apple. Both my parents were born here…Brooklyn and Queens, and I spent quite a number of days here in my youth, but Heidi had never been. We had four days during Spring Break and were determined to see as much of this amazing city as possible.

We had some “wintery weather”…rain and even snow, but the first day was spring-like….some blue sky, a nippy little breeze….weather just right for walking in Central Park…and walk we did, from one end to the other taking in all the sights.

Had to fit in some museum time so we took in MOMA and the Guggenheim….priceless art treasures inside of both these world class museums.

We made it to the Lady and Ellis Island.

Spent several evenings around Times Square, walked among the crazy hats at the Easter Parade outside St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and rode the subway to Columbia University to get some sweatshirts.

We ate New York pizza and New York cheesecake, went to a Broadway Show; Book of Mormon, and visited the Empire State Building. We were sorry we didn’t get tickets to Good Morning America, but we saw where it is filmed as well as the Today Show at Rockefeller Center. We spent several hours in the 911 museum and Ground Zero….so moving, so emotional, so powerful.

Took Heidi to see the Project Runway store, MOOD….disappointed that Swatch was out for a walk. One day, in search of four large segments of the Berlin Wall, the sleet and rain worked their way through Heidi’s clothes…she was so cold but didn’t want to stop our discovery….so into the massive Macy’s store we went and out came Heidi in a warm, camo jacket…..all warmed and raring to go, we finally found the home of the Berlin Wall, only to find they had been carted away and stored until MOMA buys and displays them in the museum. Bummer, but the journey was fun.

There is so much to see and so much to do in NYC that we have vowed to come back again to take in what we missed, and perhaps to take in another Broadway show. And perhaps more of that New York Pizza and Cheesecake!!!

“Stuff your eyes with wonder, live as if you’d drop dead in ten seconds. See the world. It’s more fantastic than any dream made or paid for in factories.” – Ray Bradbury

Last time we came to Greece, besides exploring Athens, the Peloponnese Peninsula and Crete, we spent some time on the island of Santorini. And while we found Santorini to be postcard picture perfect, it was also wall-to-wall people during the day when the cruise ships unloaded their masses. We thought there must be a quieter island, one with delicious food, sun drenched beaches, a total lack of cruise ships or an airport, hiking trails, white churches with blue domes, super accommodations and friendly people. A tall order….so we start to research and while we found quite a few that met our criteria, we settled on Sifnos (Seef naws). Yes, it will be Sifnos for us

Sifnos is in the same chain of islands with Mykonos, Santorini and Ios, the Cyclades, and a 2 hour fast ferry ride from Piraeus. On the smaller side, about 28 square miles, 9.3 miles long, a little over 4.6 miles wide, but filled with history, great towns, and amazing food. The great chef, Nikos Tselementes, was born on Sifnos and he pretty much singlehandedly brought Greek cooking to the world.

Our plane from Paris landed in Athens and then we taxied to Piraeus, the port city and home to most of the ferries that connect the islands with the mainland. Spent the night and early the next morning we made our way down to the docks. I wish I could say it was all organized with signs directing you to the correct ferry, or even just a sign with the name of the ferry, but this is Greece and one shouldn’t expect such a fanciful wish. Instead we find cars all lined up here and there, long lines everywhere, dock workers yelling directions, a regular shit-show, but you just smile and become one of the crowd. By asking around and showing the name of our ferry on our tickets, we finally made it to the correct queue and soon we boarded our ship and were on our way to Sifnos

In a little over two hours our fast little ferry docks in Kamares, the port city on Sifnos. We love watching the unloading process. You might think they let the passengers off first, and then unload the vehicles, but no, it is a free-for-all as everyone disembarks at the same time. We can’t help but giggle as we watch everything and everyone spill out onto the dock….the process seems to work!!!!

We grab another car rental and then it is off to find our hotel, a beautiful boutique resort called Verina Astra (https://verinahotelsifnos.com/accommodation/verina-astra/) I promised Heidi that we would stay at a really nice spot and there is none better on the island than Verina Astra.

There is a little church,  Panagia tis Poulatis Church, just down the hill from us and we must explore.

So after we unpack and move into our heavenly room, down the hill on an ancient trail we tromp. Trails criss-cross this little island and some have been here for thousands of years. This one appears to have had a master stonemason create it. The church is just stunning…stark white with a sky-blue dome, and just a few more steps below is the Aegean Sea. A swim in definitely in the cards.

A ferry boat ride to the island, a rental car adventure finding the hotel, a hike to a church and a swim in the sea….that’s enough for today…time to just veg out in the room, order some wine and room service and enjoy the view and each other’s company. Doesn’t get much better than this!!!!

We have decided that this week will be a “vacation away from our vacation”. Heidi cold is still hanging on and my toe is still telling me to stop walking. So we scrap most of our big adventures and instead will enjoy taking it easy, some exploring, but mostly just taking it easy.

KASTRO

We do decide to go visit Kastro, the ancient capital city of the island. It sits on a hill and is built like a labyrinth, purposefully so as to confuse any invaders. And at the far side is a trail that leads down to the Church of Seven Martyrs, the most instragrammable spot on the island. Some mistake it for the Mama Mia Church, but that one is on a different island. Kastro is just so stinking cute, paved walkways, no vehicles what-so-ever, little cafes, and when you come to the end of a walkway, there is usually a great view to the sea

APOLLONIA

Apollonia is probably the most picturesque city on the entire island. Located just a five minute drive from our hotel, Apollonia is filled with charm….little shops, restaurants and cafes, bakeries, churches and bougainvillia shaded homes. We spent several evenings wandering the streets of this town.

CHERONISSOS

At the norther tip of the island, located at the end of a protected bay, is the sleepy little village of Cheronissos. The water here is always calm, the beach sandy, and you can swim out into the bay, in and around anchored fishing boats, or just lounge on the beach under one of the shade trees. We enjoyed an entire day here, reading our books, swimming, eating at the little cafe. A kindly Greek woman grabbed two of the four lounge chairs and gifted them to us for the day. There is a pottery shop just off the beach and I had such a good time talking about his works when he knew zero English and I knew zero Greek, but we communicated just fine.

Exploring Time Comes to an End

They say all good things must come to an end, and so it is with this holiday. Six days exploring this island just wasn’t enough so we will make plans to return.

Just a few more images from Sifnos before we hop on the ferry on the first leg of our return home.

Postscript: Two weeks after our return I went an had x-rays of my toe….yep, broken the whole trip. No wonder it hurt so much. We do hope our next trip will be a whole lot healthier.

Paris is always a good idea. -Audrey Hepburn

Paris, the City of Lights, the City of Love, the City of Haute Couture….whatever you call it, it has earned its reputation as one of the most magnificent cities in the world.

The train ride from London to Paris on the EuroStar took just a little over two and a half hours, with the train clocking up to 165 mph….wow!!!! We pull into Gare du Nord around mid-day, grabbed a taxi to our hotel in the Saint Germain des Prés area and headed out to our first destination….Museé d’Orsay. Paris is such a walkable city, and if it is too far the Metro is excellent and easy to navigate. We walked the few blocks to the museum and spent the next few hours mesmerized by the amazing collection of art.

The Museé d’Orsay was originally built as a train station for the World’s Fair in 1900. The exterior of the train station was covered with white limestone to match the buildings in the neighbourhood and the nearby Lourve Palace (now also a museum). But by 1939, the station closed as it could no longer accommodate the larger, more modern trains. It fell into disrepair until the 1970’s when a movement arose to save this historic building and in 1978 it was designated as a historic monument. The brilliant idea of turning this abandoned train station into a museum came to fruition in 1986….and today it is home to many priceless masterpieces.

The Impressionists are definitely on display here at Museé d’Orsay…Monet, Manet, Gauguin, Van Gogh, Cézanne…so many others. I was in heaven!!!!!

So many masterpieces here

And one last Van Gogh

I have always had the dream, that if Heidi and I ever made it to Paris, that we would walk hand in hand along the River Seine…and that is what we did next. Hand in hand along this famous river and then a quick bite to eat and a little French wine.

So my cold has pretty much gone away. My stubbed toe is still killing me. And now, it seems I have caught a case of conjunctivitis, PINK EYE !!!! What next?????

Well, next we spent some time just walking about different neighbourhoods, grabbed a nice dinner at a Michelin Starred restaurant, and then home to our hotel to rest up for another day of exploring to come.

Today we are going to walk around Montmartre, but first I go in search of a pharmacy. A kindly pharmacist has pity on me and gives me some drops for my eyes…I will be wearing my sunglasses today!! And to make matters worse, Heidi has come down with my cold….but we power on.

We had planned to visit the Louvre this morning, but neither of us feel up to it, so Mona Lisa will need to wait for another visit. Instead we sleep in, grabbed a delicious Croque Monsiur for breakfast and then visit the nearby Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. So plain on the outside, but inside the gothic church really shines.

A quick metro ride and we get out at Abbesses Station, the deepest of all the metro stations, climb the 460 steps in the claustrophobic spiral stairway and exit out to the heart of Montmarte. Sick or not, we plan of walking all about this lovely part of Paris. Right behind the Metro Station is the Wall of Love on which the phrase “I love you” is featured 311 times in 250 languages.

We wandered all around Montmartre, once home to many a budding artist like Picasso, Van Gogh, Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Degas, and many more. Montmartre is full of charm and allure…from little cobblestone streets, windmills, and grape vineyards to cabarets, basilicas, and stunning architecture. Walk till your hearts content and let your mind and heart be filled with the wonder of this hill area of the 18th arrondissement.

Near the end of our walk, we visited the famous Basilique du Sacre-Coeur de Montmartre. Standing proud at the top of the hill, commanding a panoramic view of Paris, is Sacre-Coeur Basilica. Built between 1875 and 1914 (opened in 1923), it is built from travertine limestone. Whenever it rains, this limestone emits calcite that in essence cleans the stone enabling it to keep the beautiful white color. The interior is highlighted by one of the largest mosaic in all of the world, the Risen Christ.

And right next door to Sacre Coeur is the infamous “sinking house”

Ate that night at Pink Mammas.

Today we had tickets to visit Versailles, but we both were under the weather so we slept in again, adjusted our plans and decided to just walk about. We LOVE the Parisian Parks. Compared to other European capitals like Vienna, Madrid or London, Paris isn’t particularly green, but with over 480 parks to choose from, you are bound to find a spot for a picnic or a shady bench to finish that book you are reading.

And cafes are so quaint and sometimes all decked out with flowers and ornamentals. Little stools and chairs set RIGHT next to each other, hardly room to breathe. And you can nurse that un café and nibble on that croissant for as long as you want while you people watch to heart’s content.

Walking is always the best way to see a city. And we just love walking, and even though we weren’t feeling the best, we wound up walking almost 15 miles today. Cafes, markets, beautiful architecture, parks, bridges, so many wonders we discovered here in Paris. We also took a river cruise to see everything from a different perspective. Fun Day!!!

Last full day in Paris before we venture out to the countryside.

Today we are going for another walk, this time around the Latin Quarters. Our first stop is to Sainte-Chapelle, a church with probably the most impressive stained-windows anywhere in the world. Like St. Germain, the exterior is not much to look at, but inside the windows tower above you. Each window tells the story of a different book in the Bible. The details are amazing, the light that filters in simply mesmerizing.

We wandered by the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris, but due to reconstruction efforts to repair the fire damage, we were not allowed to go inside. As a true independent bookstore lover, we next went in search of probably the most famous bookstore in the entire world, Shakespeare and Company.

The likes of Langston Hughes, Henry Miller, Allen Ginsberg, Anaïs Nin, and Lawrence Ferlinghetti (who went on to co-found City Light Books in San Francisco) all came here, to write, to share a drink, to stock the shelves, and some even slept on the couch. The walls of this bookstore are dripping with history. Oh what a store!!!

Just around the corner is Rue du Chat-qui-Pêche, the narrowest street in all of Paris. I could stretch out my arms and touch the walls on either side.

Right in this neighborhood was also the oldest tree in all of Paris, lots of shopping, and several lovely churches including St. Séverin. We visited all the churches.

After about three hours of wandering, including exploring Luxembourg Gardens, we ended up at the Pantheon. It is here that many notable French men and women are interned. A magnificient building, we toured main floor and felt very tiny standing below the towering dome, we climbed the 276 steps to the top to get a 360 degree view of Paris, and we braved the cypts below where among others lie Marie and Pierre Curie, Voltaire, Victor Hugo and Rousseau. We tend to get a little creeped out walking about burial spots.

We ended the evening with a nice dinner and then to a cabaret, Paradis Latin. We chose Paradis Latin as it is the oldest cabaret in Paris and is housed in a building designed by Eiffel himself. Good show with a bottle of champagne, didn’t need to know the language to understand everything.

For our last day here, we take an express train to Vernon, rent a pair of bicycles, and then peddle to Giverny and the home of Claude Monet. This was our favorite day, while we love visiting cities and seeing all they have to offer, we much prefer to be in the countryside. The bike trail was practically empty, flat all the way, and we only made one wrong turn. We went along the River Seine, past fields of wheat and corn, poppies growing wild, and wound up at the parking lot by Monet’s home. Monet was one of those rare painters who actually sold his work and was pretty well-to-do. He bought this home in Giverny and made magic of the garden. The pond, Japanese bridge, and waterlilies were the subject of some of his most prized paintings. Touring the home was fun, but the gardens were stunning.

So tomorrow we taxi to Charles De Gualle Airport to catch a plane to Athens. It is time to say Au Revoir to Paris, for we must return as there is still much to see, much to taste, much to experience. And hopefully next time we will be in better health. Thank you, Paris, for such a grand experience.

“To awaken alone in a strange town is one of the pleasantest sensations in the world.” – Freya Stark

London, Heidi has never been and It has been years since I was here last, unless you count Heathrow as being in London. We have tickets already to a play and have hopes to see some of the sights.

We turned in our rental car at Heathrow and caught the Heathrow Express to Paddington Station and grabbed a quick taxi ride to our hotel…well, almost to our hotel. Our taxi driver was a real grump who seemed very unhappy that we weren’t going very far. When we neared our destination, he stopped the taxi by the side of the road and pointed across the street to a hotel and says, “That’s your hotel across the street.” Now, I had given him the address, so he knew exactly where we were going. Not knowing any better, we paid, crossed the street and tried checking in only to find out it was the Bloomsbury Street Hotel, and we had reservations at the Bloomsbury Hotel,

about a block away. The driver didn’t want to go around the corner so he got us out with an easy exit for him…oh well. So we rolled our luggage to the correct hotel, checked in, freshened up, and then headed out for a night at the theatre. First stop, glass of wine and some bread and humus at a little cafe in Neal’s Yard, an up and coming locale with a cute little courtyard.

Next, dinner at Cafe Murano, and then a quick walk around the corner to the Duchess Theatre for THE PLAY THAT GOES WRONG. We thoroughly enjoyed the play, a lively humorous skit where everything that could possibly go wrong, goes wrong. It has been playing continuously since 2012 and has won numerous awards. We love a good play and this was our first in the London Theatre District. And it was a good thing it was a comedy, for we were both exceedingly tired and I was still sick as a dog, and the slapstick comedy kept us awake.

Tomorrow we start touring!!!!!

Up early the next morning, we grabbed a nice breakfast at a cute little diner down the street, Salt and Pepper. Then we expertly navigated the tube and popped out onto the street with Big Ben directly in front of us…lovely sight.

Big Ben was closed due to renovations so we could only marvel at it from a distance. Did you know Big Ben is not the name of the iconic clock tower that is synonymous with London, but rather for the enormous 13 ton bell that tolls every hour? The bell in place is actually the second bell to be installed, the first one, slightly larger, cracked on the ground before it was ever put in place. The current bell, installed in 1858, also cracked. You see the bell is rung by having a hammer on the outside of the bell strike it, instead of having a clapper on the inside. Well, the hammer hit the bell with a bit too much force creating a crack on one side. The bell was repositioned with the crack away from the hammer, and the tension of the hammer loosened, and the bell has been sounding ever since.

Westminster Abbey, just kitty-corner across the street, was calling our names.

We had purchased tickets ahead of time and were one of the first to enter the building on this beautiful day. And oh what a magnificent cathedral, such a marvel. You gaze up at the ceiling that seems to touch the heavens, so high above. The windows let in rays of sunshine, the voices of visitors hushed and lost in the expanse of this building.

And all around are graves, graves of famous British subjects and royalty.

We had chosen to pay a little extra to visit the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries high above the Abbey floor. This area has only recently been open to the public and it now holds many priceless treasures such as one of the original copies of the Magna Carta, the royal marriage licence for HRH Prince William and Miss Catherine Middleton, the effigy head of King Henry VII and so much more. On the way up the stairs you get a close-up view of the windows and flying buttresses, and the view from the top down toward the Abbey floor is breathtaking.

Today is a Cathedral Day…next stop, St. Paul’s Cathedral. Although there had been several St. Paul’s Cathedrals over the years, beginning in 604 AD, most consumed by fire, the building of the current iteration began in 1675 and completed in 1710. It is amazing it has remained intact all these years, even survived the Blitz and during that time an unexploded bomb was removed from the roof of the cathedral. Heidi remembers the beauty of the building as she watched on television the wedding ceremony of Prince Charles and Lady Diana. Today you can wander about this grand Cathedral and you feel so tiny standing underneath the world’s tallest dome at 366 feet in height. We were unable to climb the stairs up to the dome as they were closed due to the extreme heat of the day. But just walking about was a real treat.

Off to lunch now at Leadenhall Market. If it looks familiar it was used for filming Diagon Alley and the Leaky Cauldron in the first Harry Potter movie. This market has been here since 1321, although most of it burned down in the great fire of 1666. only to be rebuilt several times to its current Victorian style. Great spot to grab a pint and snacks.

Time for another play, this time a musical and Heidi’s all-time favorite, GREASE!!!!

And ended the day with a glass each of delicious British Bubbly!!!!

Last full day in London we head out to see the infamous Tower of London. I promised Heidi no museums here, but never said we wouldn’t visit famous sites!!! So much history here at the Tower.

Hungry so we begin our walk to Boroughs Market on the other side of the Thames. But on the way we stop at the Ruins of St. Dunstan of the East Church….such a spot of shade, peace and beauty, and a real instagrammable location.

Boroughs Market is another market used in the Harry Potter Series and is somewhat similar to Pike Place Market in Seattle, with all the fruit, veggie, and flower vendors. This market has been around for about 1000 years and is so fun to explore.

And there was one vendor we HAD to find, Kappacasein Dairy, where they make the absolute, most delicious grilled cheese sandwich in the entire world. We pigged out on a sandwich each and washed it down with a glass of champagne purchased ahead of time at a nearby stand…..Oh, so good!!!!!

Last but not least on our tour today is a trip inside the Tower Bridge. A lot of stairs to get up to the top but great views of the city and River Thames. Really fun to be inside and learn the history. There is one section when you are high above the street where the floor is plexiglass….you look right down to the cars below.

A special honour to the Queen, the moat around the Tower of London was planted with all types of wildflowers, all abloom….spectacular!!!!

We walked a bunch in London, saw many sights, and got a feel for this lovely city. I am finally beginning to feel better and my voice has returned, but a little worried about Heidi. She is starting to feel under-the-weather. But it is off to Paris now on the fast EuroStar Express.

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” – Anthony Bourdain

The COVID grasp on the travel world has loosened and we were ready to jump into the skies and jet to places unknown….and for an even better excuse, we had to do something BIG to celebrate Heidi turning 60. So what better way to celebrate than a trip.

First stop, Devon, England….but before we get there, a little back story. When we were in Chania, Crete a few years ago, we stayed at this cute boutique hotel, La Maison Ottoman https://www.lamaisonottomane.com/ Heidi and I were enjoying a glass of wine in their little courtyard. Across from us were these two gentlemen also drinking some wine, so of course we started up a conversation and quickly became fast friends.

Robert was a radio personality and manager of several radio stations in Belfast, Richard worked hospitality at numerous high-end hotel chains and was most recently in charge of housing at a large university in Belfast. Well, they decided to quit their jobs and purchase a Bed and Breakfast, Highcliffe House https://highcliffehouse.co.uk/, in the little English town of Lynton….their plan: they would work like dogs seven months out of the year, close up the B&B for the winter and travel (their passion and love) the rest of the year. Quickly they have made the B&B the top rated bed and breakfast in all of the UK. Quite the honor!!!! When we learned of their purchase, we knew we had to visit.

But one more backstory before we get to Lynton. This is a story that will plague us most of the trip, not derail us, but definitely put some obstacles and challenges in our way. The day before we were to depart from SeaTac, I stubbed the toes on my left foot….barefoot slamming against a very solid table leg. It really hurt and the pain didn’t dissipate after an hour or so like most stubbed toes, but I thought it would go away and went about the business of packing and getting everything ready for our departure. The next day we drove across the mountains to SeaTac. Our flight was changed at the last minute and instead of flying directly from SeaTac to London, we now had to fly first to Vancouver BC and then to Heathrow…putting us about 2 hours behind schedule. Passing through security, I was required to take off my shoes. In doing so, I momentarily lost my balance and the heel cup of the shoe caught on my injured toe, pulling it upwards rather sharply. Stars were all I saw and tears filled my eyes….I mean it really hurt. But I made it through security and somehow put my shoes back on. Heidi could tell I was in pain, but not wanting to let anything get in the way of this special trip I told her I was fine, just a stubbed toe. I then got to sit for quite some time as both our flights were delayed and then the nine hours over to Heathrow…and now we were 4 hours late and wondering if we would be able to make it to Lynton before dark. On the way to the rental car company, Heidi asked if I needed a wheelchair, again, “No, no, no, I’m fine.” So slowly towards to the car rental place we did go, sans wheelchair, and soon we would be on the road for a four hour drive to the coast…..but we were soon to find out the injured toe was only the beginning of our medical woes.

The road to Lynton began by exiting the London suburbs along a four lane highway…an easy way to get used to driving again on the left side of the road. Occasionally Heidi would mention I was “drifting” and I’d make the necessary corrections. Seems the further away from London you go, the narrower the roads become. Long stretches of road with no shoulder, just rock walls on either side. Not a worry until a lorry or tourist bus comes at you. One would think they would slow down, but no, they go on their merry way and you cower behind the wheel hoping you don’t either crash into the oncoming vehicle or scrap all the paint off the side of your car on the rock wall. Pins and needles we were on as the sun slowly dropped lower and lower on the horizon. We drove the last mile up a steep, teeny, tiny road wide enough for only one vehicle, and there was Richard waiting for us and showing us where to park. WE MADE IT !!!!

Highcliffe House is this AMAZING bed and breakfast, perched high on the hill above Lynton with commanding views of the Bristol Channel looking toward Wales. Located just minutes from Exmoor National Park, the Valley of Rocks, and many more wonderful hiking spots. We made ourselves at home in the Myrtleberry Suite on the second floor.

Then next morning we plan to visit a castle, but besides my aching toe, I have now developed a terrible cold, thankfully not COVID, but an awful cold and to top it off, I have lost my voice. But we have a castle to visit and miles to drive on a twisty, curvy road. The drive, stressful as it may have been, was absolutely gorgeous. High above the Bristol Channel the road hugs the coast as you traverse through Exmoor National Park. Looking inland you are greeted with a patchwork of farms, and flocks of sheep, and an occasional village. After about an hour of driving we make it to Dunster and its famous castle.

The original Dunster Castle was built shortly after William the Conquerer came to power in 1066, made of thick timber…the only thing remaining from this building is the imposing iron-bound oak doors. Stone walls were added but it wasn’t until 1300’s that the castle we know today took shape. Two different families went on to own this castle and spent exorbitant amounts of money to make it a home to show off. The castle was eventually given to the National Trust in 1976 and is open for tours for all to see its grandeur. You can wander through room to room, many kept in the same manner as years ago. And the grounds are spectacular with miles of trails and even an old watermill.

Next day we decide to just wander about Lynton, a really cute little village sitting on the ridge above it’s sister city Lynmouth. No voice again today, so Heidi does most of the talking. We begin by wandering the streets of Lynton, the type of village you think of when you envision a British countryside town.

Along the way we stopped at a pharmacy for some tape for my toe, and then made our way to the Valley of Rocks, an absolutely stunning site just outside of town.

Last, but not least, we decide to ride the world’s tallest and steepest water powered railway down the face of the cliffs to Lynton’s twin city of Lynmouth. An engineering marvel of the day, it opened for passengers on April 7, 1890, and today still runs in the same manner saving hundreds of passengers the long, steep trek up and down the hill. What fun!!!!

Last day in the Devon area, we hop in the car and make our way south to the town of Clovelly. Located on the coast, this little village is owned by a Lord, the residents all pay rent to the Lord to stay there, and no cars are allowed. To get to the village you must walk down a rather steep cobble-stone road, a little slick when wet. Each home has their own sledge to carry items up and down…and don’t ever dare borrow another person’s sledge without their permission!!!! Every house is adorned with flowers….roses, fuchsias, Calla Lilies ….just picture perfect!!!

We now must take leave of this beautiful little corner of England and we say our goodbyes to Richard and Robert. On our way now to London, but one more stop on the way; Stonehedge!!! You can actually see the stones from the highway, but we wanted a closer look.

Next stop, LONDON!!!!

“Take only memories, leave only footprints” – Chief Seattle

December, time to escape the snow, the cold, the icy roads. Time to visit Todos Santos again. We love this little town situated on the Baja coast, with it’s quaint little shops, unhurried pace of life, and miles and miles of empty beaches.

Because we have been here before, we didn’t do as much exploring as normal. Instead we busied ourselves with reading books, watching whales, getting our fill of good Mexican food, and securing our daily dose of Vitamin D.

The whales were out in force this year. Sitting on the beach, we would focus our gaze out to sea trying to catch that tell-tale spout. You look and look and then, POOF, the exhalation of air followed by the back of the whale breaking the surface, ending with the fluke waving goodbye to us. Sometimes they were as close as 400 meters from shore, close enough to see the texture of their skin. We joked they were all heading down to a birthing convention down in Cabo. Actually there are only three lagoons in the world where gray whales give birth to their babies – Guerrero Negro, Ojo de Liebre and Laguna San Ignacio – and all three are in Baja! They love the warmer water and spend about three months here. We actually came up with names for them….there was Meredith Gray, Grayson Gray, Christian Gray!!!!

While you often see the gray whales surfacing, it is rare to see the whales breaching. But one day we were sitting in the sand, just gazing out to sea, when all of a sudden up from the depths leaped a Humpback Whale. It continued breaching five or six more times….so high out of the water and then, SPLAT, a huge belly-flop splash!!!! So exciting. They say humpbacks breach to communicate with each other, and it also helps dislodge barnacles and lice that tend to accumulate on their skin. All we know is we were really lucky to catch the show!!!!

Besides watching the whales, the pelicans gave us just as much viewing joy. They are such amazing flyers….seemingly forever in formation, these squadrons soar across the waves, tucking into the curve of the wave to ride the air being thrust upwards, and then a big flap of their wings right before the wave breaks. Top Gun fighter pilots could learn a lot by watching these graceful flyers.

It is said in Baja that if you see a dirt road, take it. Undoubtably at the end you will find something marvelous. We didn’t rent a four wheel drive vehicle, so we had to look for more “pedestrian” dirt roads….Once, trying to find this secluded, out of the way beach, we probably voided our rental contract and risked scraping off our oil pan due to the severity of the ruts, bumps, and divots…but the lure of a beach surrounded by palms kept up going. But alas, about a quarter mile from our destination we came to a locked gate…seems someone bought the land around the beach and did not want to share access. Oh well. We took a different dirt road and ended up at Punta Lobos…a little fishing harbor. Each morning the fishermen head out to sea. They use these heavy 20+ foot, fiberglass, open, outboard powered fishing boats called pangas. They are heavy and sturdily built. To get them into the ocean they utilize this rusty old pick-up to alternately pull the boats as close as possible to the ocean, then putter around and push them the rest of the way into the oncoming waves.

Between 2:00 pm to 5:00 pm they all return, boats hopefully full of dorado, mackerel, sting rays, and octopus. They don’t putter in slowly, instead they carefully time their return to the beach with the waves, gun their engines full bore and scream up out of the sea and onto the sandy beach. The rusty old pick-up then hooks them up and tows them further up the beach.

Food is always on our mind, and Todos Santos if full of amazing restaurants to satisfy our epicurian desires. Our favorite place to eat is right on the beach, with our feet in the sand.

We stayed again at Villa Santa Cruz…..a beautiful boutique hotel with 15 rooms set right on the beach. It is about 15 minutes north of town down a sandy, dusty road, but the distance from town ensures privacy and quiet.

Every night we made it down to the beach to watch the sun set into the sea. Bright, vibrant sunsets.

Relaxation was what this vacation was all about. Todos Santos was the perfect location to unwind, to eat great food, to watch fiery sunsets, and just enjoy each other.

Every day is a journey, and the journey itself is home
-Matsu Basho

The reason we made this blog was to keep in touch with people while we were out of the country, but more importantly, to capture our trips and journeys and memories. And now, during our stay at home time due to Covid 19 outbreak, travel is not an option, but we are lucky, unlike most of the world, we still are able to get outside and hike. So to remember this time, and our hikes, here are a few we have taken. Too much snow right now in the Cascades, so our hikes are all in the Columbia Basin.

Northrup Canyon
Northrup Canyon is such a great little hike. Located up by Banks Lake, just east of Steamboat Rock State Park. Starts out on a double track road as you enter the canyon. To your left are sky-scraping basalt cliffs. To the right is an old wagon road (closed when we hiked to protect the nesting birds) where approximately 100 to 200 bald eagles nest each year. You can see them soaring overhead looking for food for their young. In about a half mile, the road narrows to a single track trail and hugs the western side of the canyon. At about 1.5 miles of pretty flat hiking, you reach the old Northrup homestead. The log cabin, built in about 1874 is still standing…as well as some out-buildings and the newer home built several decades later. Interesting history here….John Northrup died at the turn of the century and his wife and daughter took over the running of the ranch Then in 1903, Mrs. Northrup was murdered by a neighboring rancher over a property dispute. The rancher also murdered his own wife in the same incident. The Northrup family continued to farm the land for several more generations. This homestead is a fun spot to explore and take pics. Find the birdhouse behind the new home and the heart metal art on the backside of the house.

Once you are ready to get back on the trail, you’ll find it changes in temperament….taking an upward trajectory for the next mile and three quarters. All around you now are ponderosa pine, willows and aspen and views back down to the canyon. Eventually you make it to Northrup Lake…a heart-shaped beauty. For fishermen, I hear there are some hungry little trout in these waters. Climb the steep hillside to the north and get a panoramic view of the lake nestled at the end of this canyon. Break out your lunch and beverage of choice and just soak in the beauty!!!!! Love this hike and in the spring-time…No Snakes!!!!! I would imagine this one will get oven-hot in the summer with the sun reflecting off the canyon walls. Great hike for families!!!

Ancient Lakes
We just love the Ancient Lakes Area….great for hiking as well as mountain biking, and a perfect spot for kids to hike and explore. First time we went, we hiked from above, parked at the lot just off White Trail Road. Overall pretty flat hiking with a few little hills, but the lakes are drop-dead gorgeous!!! And water falls!!!! Cascading over basalt cliffs. When I was in high school, a bunch of us guys used to come out here to fish….pulled some very nice looking trout out of these waters!!! Now we just come to exercise and marvel. You can get down to the lower lakes, but you have to descend a rather steep and treacherous basalt rubble cliff. We saved the lower lakes for another day.

If you take the road behind the Quincy rest stop you come to the lower Ancient Lakes parking lot. This gives you easy access to all the lower lakes, down to the Columbia River, into Dusty Coulee and even trail access to The Gorge Amphitheatre five miles away. Hiking through the coulees here is so fun. Keep your eyes peeled for raptors….hawks, owls, eagles….and the EA-18G Growler jets from Whidbey Island Naval Air Station that occasionally zoom through the canyons on their daily practice runs. I think our favorite was hiking to Dusty Lake…pretty much had the entire Coulee to ourselves. Brought a picnic lunch, spread a blanket at a spot overlooking the lake, ate, read our books and soaked in the sunshine. Just the very best.

Hiking down to the lower bench above the Columbia is also pretty cool. Watch your step for if you twist an ankle you might not have anyone find you for a bit…it is that secluded….but worth every step for the views you will have of the mighty Columbia River.

Balsamroot Trail/Sage Hills Trail
Right behind our house is the Balsamroot Trail…it traverses from Horse Lake Road to the end of Broadview and then connects with the Sage Hills Trail. Great for hiking and mountain biking, a great trail to sneak away from home and enjoy views of the city and the Columbia River. Balsamroot is about a two mile trail, but if you take the Sage Hills spur at the end you can add miles and miles to your trek. We love this trail for a quick hike and escape from home.

Jacobson Preserve Trail (SaddleRock)
So nice to have this trail in our “backyard”. We love to hike to the top starting at the WRAC parking lot…it is more of a trail instead of the road atmosphere of the Appleatchi side. Great views of Wenatchee, up the Columbia to Rocky Reach Dam, and across to East Wenatchee. A bit crowded at times and social distancing takes some doing, but the views at the top are worth it.

So for as long as we are able, we’ll keep a-walking the trails. And when the snow abates, we’ll climb up high in the Cascades.

Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life – and travel – leaves marks on you. Most of the time, those marks – on your body or on your heart – are beautiful. — Anthony Bourdain

Todos Santos, Baja California, Mexico

On a dark desert highway
Cool wind in my hair
Warm smell of colitas
Rising up through the air
Up ahead in the distance
I saw a shimmering light
My head grew heavy and my sight grew dim
I had to stop for the night
There she stood in the doorway
I heard the mission bell….

The lyrics from the Eagles’ song, Hotel California, definitely conjure up scenes of Todos Santos.We arrived in Todos Santos Christmas evening on a dark desert highway and there was indeed a cool wind blowing. Up in the distance, we saw the shimmering lights of Todos Santos and there, smack downtown is a Hotel California. We didn’t smell any colitas but we heard the mission bells toll.

The Eagles disavow any association with the Hotel California in Todos Santos, in fact they went as far as suing them for using the name and claiming reference to the song. They settled out of court, the hotel kept its name but no longer plays Eagles music or makes claim to the song or the group.

Whether the Eagles had slept here or not didn’t matter to us….we were here to escape a dreary winter and grab some sun, gorge ourselves on delicious Mexican food, and sip our fair share of margaritas. And like Anthony Bourdain said, we were here to have beautiful marks left on our bodies and hearts.

This was actually our second time to Todos Santos. The first time, two years ago, we drove up from Cabo just for the day….and we fell in love with the peacefulness of this village located smack dab on the Tropic of Cancer. Todos Santos started as a Jesuit Mission back in the 1700’s and the area was known for growing sugar cane. The industry flourished until the 1950’s when a great drought devastated the crops and dried up the water table. In the 1970’s the town was “re-discovered” by artisans and others looking for a tranquil lifestyle. In 1984, the road from Cabo to Todos Santos was finally paved, and little by little this quiet Mexican village has been growing. Right now you can still find miles and miles of beaches completely to yourself. We walked one day on the beach about 4 miles and never saw another person. If you are not a surfer or a really good swimmer, it is best not to enter the water around here for the undertow and the currents are rather fierce.

We stayed at this amazing boutique hotel, right on the beach, called Villa Santa Cruz. The owner, Heather, and her husband bought the property about 20 years ago and built their dream Villa in 2006. After living in it a few years, they decided to turn it into a hotel, a luxury boutique hotel with only four rooms. Just recently, they added four small casitas or bungalows…places with a little more room and space for a small family. They also completely renovated the salt-water pool and added a crow’s nest on the dune for relaxing and ocean gazing. Put it all together and you have an experience that is unscheduled, unhurried and in close connection with the natural beauty and rhythm of Baja. Truly heavenly.

Food is something that is always on our mind when we travel….what local cuisine can we try? In our ten days here we sampled so many local Mexican eateries.

One of our favorite restaurants was called The Green Room. (surfing lingo for being inside the barrel that is produced by the wave) It is a little difficult to find…kind of like a speakeasy….you have to know what to look for. You drive along the ocean on this dusty, sometimes washboard dirt road.

Keep your eyes peeled for a “Green Light”.

Easier to find when it is dark but pretty darn impossible when the sun is out. The first time we drove right by it and after four more miles on the dirt road, we surmised we had missed it. When you do locate the green light, you turn into the dirt driveway and find what looks like a farming plot. This is where you park and then you look for the little “Green Room” signs.

Wander along a sandy path until it comes to the dune in front of the ocean….the path here turns into a wooden walkway….at the top is the restaurant.

We came for dinner here three times and each time we got the primo table…seating for two, toes in the sand with an unobstructed view to the ocean and the setting sun. While we ate, we watched whales spout and breach as the sun settled over the Pacific. Quite the romantic setting.

For breakfast, La Esquina was by far our favorite. Fresh brewed coffee, pecan muffins, egg burritos to die for, and cookies!!!!! You sit in this courtyard garden underneath shady palm trees…great way to start the day.

One morning we made our way to a luxury resort south of Todos Santos called Hotel San Cristobal. A little pricey (about $500.00 a night),but what a beautiful setting. We went for their breakfast at the Restaurant Benno. We started with their specialty mimosas and for the main course…banana pancakes to die for!!! We’ve had some pretty good banana pancakes in our lives, but these were the best, hands down.

A little further south is the town of Cerritos. Great surfing here….sandy bottom and perfect for beginners.

The town Todos Santos is a joy to walk about….old building housing eateries, galleries, and shops populate the downtown. Many of the buildings date back to the sugar cane hey days…when money was plenty. You just take your time wandering about this town, up and down the cobblestone streets. Slip into a gallery, meander through a local surf shop, try on locally made fashions and hats, smell the leather goods, and ogle at the tile and clay works. And we got to try out our limited Spanish, of which we got a lot of smiles. (perhaps they were chuckling about my pronunciations or how I would butcher a verb tense…..they never let on and were most appreciative that we would even try.)

One task we had this trip was to find “the perfect Margarita”. We must have tried at least 20 or more margaritas and finally settled on the ones served at Tequila Sunrise, a bar across the street from The Hotel California. They make theirs with tequila and the juice from key limes, but also with a shot of Contreau and a locally made liqueur called Damiana. Damiana is made from the Damiana plant and has long been know as an aphrodisiac….hmmmmm, perhaps that is why we liked it so much!!!

Todos Santos….Our kind of place.

We wanted to stop in Singapore for a few days on this trip as this city holds some special memories for us. Whenever we needed something close to America, we would come to Singapore. You can drink water from the taps. Cars stop for you when you are in a crosswalk. Traffic is orderly. English is spoken by everyone. Time here gave us a sense of home. So for old-time sake, back for three days we came.

One of our first stops was to Raffles Hotel and Long Bar. Long Bar is where the Singapore Sling was invented. If you go to the Raffles Hotel web site, the following is the description of how the drink came to be.
The Singapore Sling, widely regarded as the national drink, was first created in 1915 by Raffles bartender Ngiam Tong Boon. Primarily a gin-based cocktail, the Singapore Sling also contains pineapple juice, lime juice, curaçao and Bénédictine. Giving it the pretty pink hue are grenadine and cherry liqueur. Bartender Ngiam deliberately chose to give the cocktail this rosy colour.

Following the turn of the century in colonial Singapore, Raffles was the gathering place for the community – and Long Bar was the watering hole. It was common to see gentlemen nursing glasses of gin or whisky. Unfortunately for the ladies, etiquette dictated that they could not consume alcohol in public. So, for the sake of modesty, teas and fruit juices were their beverages of choice.

Ever insightful, Ngiam thus saw a niche in the market and decided to create a cocktail that looks like plain fruit juice but is actually infused with gin and liqueurs. The clever bartender made the beverage pink to give it a feminine flair which, together with the use of clear alcohol, led people to think it was a socially acceptable drink for women. With that, the Singapore Sling was born. Needless to say, it became an instant hit.

You don’t dare litter in Singapore…a $300.00 fine the first time, subsequent offenses may result in court ordered cleaning a section of a neighborhood wearing a bright neon green vest. But littering in Long Bar is encouraged. On every table is a large sack of peanuts. The expectation is for everyone to brush the shells off the tables and onto the floor.

It was fun sitting in this historic bar, but it also put a little dent in our wallets….$30.00 for a Singapore Sling!!!! Ouch. Singapore in general is one expensive city.

From Raffles we went looking for another bar…the Atlas Bar. This bar was built in 2002 and pays homage to the art deco architecture in America and Europe in the late 1920’s. Beverage highlights include elegant European cocktails and one of Asia’s finest collections of gin, spirits and champagnes sourced from around the world. Such a rich atmosphere to enjoy a drink.

Besides littering, there are some other no-no’s in Singapore. Spitting carries fines of $500.00 and community service. Don’t dare bring cigarettes into the country, huge fines for having unpaid duty cigarettes in your possession, as well as fines for smoking in public places. Vandalism can bring caning punishment…some leniency if one is over 50 years old. Drug possession, buying or selling, can bring the death penalty. Jay-walking can get you a $50.00 fine or a month in jail. There are fines given for not flushing a toilet and don’t dare urinate in an elevator. Some Singaporian elevators are equiped with urine detection technology…the doors will lock until the police come to arrest you. And don’t ever feed the pigeons unless you want to give up $500.00. There is a reason Singapore is one of the cleanest cities in the world.

The first night we arrived in Singapore, we were sitting at an outdoor restaurant on Clarke Quay when we looked up and saw a Chinook helicopter carrying a massive Singapore flag flying over the downtown skyscrapers. And then out of nowhere came five F-15 fighter jets thundering overhead. Next a large transport plane accompanied by two more fighter jets. And then a single fighter jet roared into view and rocketed straight up over the city, leveled off, completed a few twists and jetted off while our hearts were thumping away!!!! We learned that Singapore National Day is August 9, and for the five weeks prior to this Independence Day, they practice. We were lucky enough to be here on a practice day, and that night watched the practice session of the fireworks and laser show. If this was just practice, wonder what the actual event will be like!!!!

Outdoor art abounds in Singapore. Seems there is a sculpture around every corner.

We also went in search of a Hawker Stand that received a Michelin Star for the Chicken Rice dish they serve. Imagine that…a Michelin Star for a humble hawker stand. Tells you something about the street food in Singapore. We used trusty Google maps to find this little hole in the wall. If it wasn’t for Heidi’s eagle eyes we would have missed it. We stood in line for about 10 minutes, grabbed our chicken rice and a couple of Tiger Beers….have to say we were a bit disappointed. Guess we were expecting more with all the award hype….but we checked it off our bucket list, explored Chinatown, and walked on for further exploration.

When it was time to go, we planned our departure so we could explore the new addition to Changi Airport. For the past five years, Changi Airport has been noted as the best airport in the world, and with good reason. There are two movie theatres, a two level butterfly park, separate parks featuring sunflowers, cacti, orchids, and ferns. There is a swimming pool, a gazillion restaurants and shops, big open spaces where kids can roam free, and people in purple blazers there to assist you with any problem that might arise. Customs and security are a breeze to clear as the efficiency speeds you through. And I swear the baggage distribution system works at the speed of light. But on top of all of that, a new section has been added across the street from Terminal One. It is called Jewel, and no security is needed. Inside this huge glass building are five stories of shops and restaurants and smack dab in the middle surrounded by trees and plants is a waterfall like you have never seen in your life. We paid a small fee to enter the glass walkway on the fifth floor. It is like walking on air and we timed it perfectly as a waterfall show commenced. Smoke, water changing color, lasers, and music…spectacular!!!! Only in Singapore.

All we had left to do now was board Japan Airlines (business class…ahhhhh), fly to Tokyo for a 10 hour layover. Stored our bags and went into town….to Ueno and the Zoo…Had to see the Panda’s and the resting spot for the elephants killed during WWII….but the zoo was closed. So we walked about in the pouring rain, grabbed a Starbuck’s Mug and a Tokyo Ueno Hardrock pin, and dashed back to the airport.

Then onto another flight (business class again) for the final leg home. This was a special trip for us…time to connect with dear friends, time to explore old and new, and time to say goodbye to a special corner of this world.

Selemat Tingal, Southeast Asia. Terima kasih for everything!!!!