Dubrovnik, Croatia

“You don’t have to do a lot in Dubrovnik, just walk around and enjoy it.” -Laura Hyatt

Dubrovnik, Pearl of the Adriatic, has been around for a long, long time. It began sometime in the 7th century under the name Ragusa and overtime merged with nearby Slavic settlers to form a fortified city-state. This independent republic became a major maritime power and traded widely. Over time the wall defending the city grew taller and stronger and helped repel many an invasion. The name Dubrovnik began appearing around the 12th century, but it wasn’t until 1918 that the name was officially changed. Today Dubrovnik is a stunning medieval walled city with a well-preserved Old Town and designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is one of the most visited cities in Europe and gained additional fame by being a filming location for the Game of Thrones.

Heidi on the “Walk of Shame” steps

We found a charming little Airbnb just outside of town. The home had been in the family for generations and had only recently been transformed—from its original dirt floors into the beautiful apartment we were lucky to stay in. The owner remembers being in kindergarten when Dubrovnik was bombarded by Serbian and Montenegrin forces in late 1991. While her father left to help defend the city, she and her family hunkered down inside the house. The scars of that bombardment remain visible today: when you look out over the Old Town, the patchwork of roof tiles tells the story, with more than 68% of the buildings having been damaged during the attack.

Our deck!!!
Evening hitting the walls

One thing we had to do was to walk the walls. It is a bit expensive, 40 euros each, but it is so worthwhile. The total distance around is about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) and takes around two hours, depending on how many pictures you take and stops to gaze. We chose to go in the late afternoon and it was such a great decision for the wall was practically empty. When we came to town the next morning, the walls were teaming with people fresh off the cruise ships. I mean they were butt to stomach across the entire wall, just inching their way along. Ugh!!! The wall is not flat, in fact there are over 1080 steps you must go up or down. But every step you see another amazing view….overlooking the Old Town, out to Lokrum Island the the Adriatic Sea, behind to the towering cliffs….this city is stunning.

Heidi on the wall
Somebody has to defend the city!!
Isn’t she just the cutest!!!!

The next day we arrived early in the morning to explore Old Town itself. We of course found a bakery and a nice cafe with good, strong coffee. Heidi posed on the stairway where Cersei Lannister performed the infamous “Walk of Shame,” a naked walk of atonement through the streets of King’s Landing, forced upon her by the High Sparrow. Of course Heidi wore clothes and instead of an angry mob of people, we had the spot to ourselves. We went into Baroque Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola and saw the oldest grotto in all of Europe. I grabbed my pin at the Hard Rock Cafe, and we walked and walked and walked all about this stunning town.

Comfy spot to sit

Tomorrow we grab a plane to Athens, a car to Piraeus Port, overnight at the Piraeus Port Hotel, and then bright and early the next morning we hop on a ferry to our final destination of this trip, Serifos Island!!!!

Serifos Island



Split, Croatia

“There is nowhere to go but everywhere.”
– On the Road, by John Kerouac

We had quite a drive from Bale to Split. The highway system in Croatia is excellent, quite a few toll roads, but worth it as the money goes to keep the highways in such good shape. On the trip we were using Google Maps when the tunnel we were to go through to get under a mountain was closed, and Google Maps gave us no alternative. So we thought we might as well try going over the mountain and that is what we did….up, up, up and up some more, Google now directing us toward Split. At the crest we were afforded views down to the sea all dotted with islands, and then we descended down a steep, curvy road and then Google told us to turn right….down what looked like a goat path, barely wide enough to fit our little car. Trusting Google, we ventured down the path, around some corners and then..BAM!!! There was the highway, and shortly there after we came into Split.

Split is the second largest city in Croatia, after the Capital Zagreb, and home to almost 200,000 people. It is rather industrial and I hate to say it, but most of the city isn’t all that attractive. But down by the harbor is the Old Town and home to Diocletian’s Palace, Marjan Hill Park, cafes, restaurants, and the ferry terminal. We stayed a little ways out of old town at the TIME Boutique Hotel. We turned in our car rental, checked into the hotel and then made our way outside, ready to explore. We love walking, wherever we go, we just let our legs lead us. You see the most amazing sites.

Wild Peacock

Diocletian was the only Roman Emperor to retire, and since his childhood home was near the current city of Split, he chose here to build his retirement palace. No expenses were spared on this home and it was massive, fortified and a jewel of Roman engineering. Now during Diocletian’s reign, he was not very nice to the Christians. He destroyed their churches, and to those who would not renounce their religion, he would arrest, torture and kill them. But the Christians got the last laugh, for when Diocletian died, he was interned in a huge mausoleum he had built for himself. The Christians, when they came to power, broke into his tomb, threw his body out (never to be found) and turned the mausoleum into a church. The palace eventually became part of the town, and the palace evolved into homes and shops and the town expanded all around it. Today the old palace is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is free to everyone to enter and see what is left of this once opulent palace.

Heidi and Bob in the main Courtyard
Oh, that face!!!!

Marjan Hill is an oasis of a park just outside of town. We walked all the way up to the top for a 360 degree view of the city, mountains and islands below. This is such a people park with a zoo, walking paths, beaches, benches, and theatre. It was so fun to meander up the steps and to experience this urban park.

Ready to climb!!!!
Rub the toe of the Statue Gregory of Nin and you will have good luck!!!!

We enjoyed our time in Split, but now it is time to hop on a ferry and motor down the coast to Dubrovnik. Zbogom (goodbye) Split !!!!

Our ferry to Dubrovnik

Bale, Croatia

Motovun

An adventurous life does not necessarily mean  climbing mountains, swimming with sharks or jumping off cliffs.  It means risking yourself by leaving a little piece of you behind in all those you meet along the way.    -Shawna Grapentin

Croatia, a new country for us. We wanted to rent a car in Venice and drive to Croatia, but the fees charged to enter a different country and to drop off at a different location were astronomical. So we hired a ride from Venice to Pula. We picked up our car at the airport and hit the road to first explore the Istria Peninsula. Our home base for the next week would be Bale (Bah Lay). We found the most amazing villa, right on the beach with our own pool. It would have been perfect for two couples as on either side of the living room/kitchen was a large bedroom and bathroom. It was so comfortable we often thought we might just lounge around the pool the entire week. The villa was located in the Mon Perin Recreation Site…..a huge resort with sections set aside for campers and tenters, another section with small trailer like accommodations, and then our luxury villa location. On site was a spa, several restaurants, a water park, bakery, grocery store, beach craft rentals, and so much more, but it was so spread out you rarely saw other people, and there were miles of walking paths. We even had our own golf cart to motor about in. We really felt spoiled.

Before we checked into our villa, we toured about the nearby town of Bale. Bale is an ancient Istrian town,, that has its origins stretching to the Bronze Age (1800 – 1000BC) with early fortifications, but became a significant Roman settlement in the 1st century AD, and came under Venetian rule in the 15th century. We walked about the town and grabbed a most delicious lunch.

Bale

Istria is a unique spot in Croatia. It is the triangular peninsula in the northwest corner of Croatia that juts into the Adriatic Sea. It is famous for wine, olice oil, truffles, Roman and Venetian history, stunning beaches and mountain top villages.

We wanted to visit a few wineries and try their unique wines. Istria has a long history with wine making and was once filled with wineries making world class wines until the 19th century when the vineyards were wiped out by devastating phylloxera, and then in the 20th century under communist rule only bulk wine production was allowed. But now the wine industry is thriving with world class wineries with talented wine makers popping up all over the place.

We chose to first visit the hilltop town of Motovun. It is probably the most photographed of all the hilltop towns. It is so well preserved and is perched dramatically on a cone-shaped hill high above the Mirna River Valley below. There are preserved defensive walls, churches and a maze of cobbled lanes.

Motovun

And nearby, is the Fakin Winery…their motto, WE MAKE FAKIN GOOD WINE. Marco Fakin is an award-winning winemaker in Croatia and we had to come and try his Teran. Teran is a rich, earthy red wine that is unique to Croatia. And it is DELICIOUS. We bought several bottles to take back to the villa for later. The winery itself was set in the middle of the vineyards and we sat in a quiet courtyard and learned so much from our server Luka, what a great guy.

Next we drove to another hilltop town, Groznjan, known for it’s music and art scene. Similar to Motovun, there is a maze of lanes of cobblestone, churches, cafes, and cuteness everywhere. And just down from Groznjan was the second winery we wanted to visit, CLAI WINERY. Here we wanted to try the famous Istrian Malvasia. And we were so lucky to share some time with Tim, the winemaker. We learned soooo much. And the wine here was outstanding…so of course we had to get a few bottles.

Another day we took a drive to the Venetian town of Rovinj (Row Vin ya). Rovinj was a key port during Venetian rule ((1283-1797) You see the influences everywhere. The old town is situated on a peninsula that juts into the sea. At the top is the Church of St. Euphemia. Cats seem to rule this little town as we saw them everywhere!!! After figuring out the parking situation, we entered the old town and just kept following lanes around and up, up to the church. We arrived very early and the town was just waking up, it seemed like the town belonged to us with no one else around. The views from the top is so worth the climb.

Rovinj
Smooth cobbles

The week here was so relaxing and we loved the hilltop towns. We tried truffles, olive oil and amazing wine. We braved driving the very windy, curvy, up-and-down roads, met so many friendly people, and enjoyed watching the sun set over the Adriatic Sea.

Tomorrow we drive to Split!!!

Away we go!!!!!!