italy | Our Adventures

“Italy is a dream that keeps returning for the rest of your life.” -— Anna Akhmatova (1889-1966) – Soviet Russian Poet

“Travel is humbling because you realize what a tiny place you occupy in this great World.” – anonymous

We had a hard time leaving Rome…we had so much fun and there was still so much to see and learn, but the Cinque Terre were calling us. These five charming towns clinging to the rocks above the Lugurian Sea were our next destination….but before we made a stop in Pisa, for everyone must experience the Leaning Tower at least once in their lives.

When we got off the train in Pisa Centrale, we found a spot to store our luggage, then grabbed a cab to the Tower. The site here is so stunning, with the marble buildings (the Cathedral, the Tower, the Baptistry (largest in all of Italy) and the Camposanto Monumentale (cemetery) standing so majestically against the blue sky and the green, green grass of the Piazza Dei Miracoli (Square of Miracles).

Of course we had to grab a picture of Heidi holding up the tower…we know it is corny as heck, but why not.

We toured all the buildings in the square prior to our assigned time to enter the Leaning Tower. Some facts: Built in a Romanesque style (architecture during Medieval times, characterized by semi-circular arches). Pisa means “Marshy Land”. The original completed height of the Tower of Pisa is 60 meters. Actually the tower’s height is 56.67m on the highest side and 55,86m on the lowest side. There are 251 steps from bottom to top. Construction began August 1173. Completed in mid 1300’s. The Leaning Tower of Pisa is the Churches Bell Tower. Currently over 5 meters off center.

Climbing the worn steps to the top was quite a feat with the lean of the tower and the circular pattern you follow, and it was a bit claustrophobic, particularly the last climb to the tippy top and the bells. The view from the top was magical.

Our taxi driver had told us it would be easy to grab a taxi back to the train station, but after waiting for over half an hour we decided it would be best if we hoofed it back on foot if we were going to catch our train. So we wandered the almost two miles back to the luggage location, but during the walk I used all my battery finding our way via Google Maps….we had no way to opening our locker. Luckily a prior phone call to the company showed up on Heidi’s phone as we share the account. We were able to contact them and they remotely opened our locker for us…..Phew!!! Now onward to Cinque Terre (five lands)!!!!

We chose to stay in Riomaggiore and found the cutest little Airbnb. It is always a gamble selecting a spot to stay using Airbnb or VRBO or other sites, but this one didn’t disappoint. The little balcony was where we sat for morning coffee and evening libations, looking out to the blue sea.

We had the goal of exploring all five towns, and number one was Riomaggiore. Our apartment was a little ways away from the main part of town allowing us some peace and quiet. Riomaggiore is a vibrant, cliffside village, famous for its colorful, stacked houses that seem to tumble down into the small harbor. It is mostly one steep street with little alleyways that poke out in every direction. Follow one and see what wonders you discover. We found the greatest little wine shop and purchased a bottle of limoncello as we promised to make our own spritz’s. Fun to explore the shops and everywhere you are walking up or down…I swear we built up our thigh strength during our stay…there is very little flat!!!! Oh, and the food was delicious…great pesto and olive oil. And we tried the local white wine that comes from the little vineyards clinging to the hills around the towns…some grapes grown only in this area.

After being closed for several years due to a massive rock slide, the Via dell’Amore (Lover’s Lane) was finally reopened just month prior to our arrival. This lane connects Riomaggiore with the next town, Manarola. We purchased tickets and off we went for a gentle stroll along this lane that clings to the cliffs with the crystal clear waters below. And at the end of the lane is Manarola. We think Manarola is the most picturesque of all the towns. It is the image mostly used for advertisements for the Cinque Terre. As much as we love Riomaggiore, Manarola stole our hearts. We explored all over. Heidi purchased the cutest pair of pants and the gorgeous blue top, and we treated ourselves to the most delicious sandwich imaginable. In the little harbor, daredevils were leaping off the rocks and others finding a spot to soak up the sun.

To get a different view of the towns, we grabbed a ferry at the Riomaggiore Harbor and viewed Cinque Terre from the sea. We got off in Monterossa al Mare. Of all the towns, this was our least favorite. While it has the best beaches, it seems so much more touristy and crowded, but we toured the old part of town, walked through the tunnel to the newer area, spied the Atlas Sculpture (Il Gigante ) and stuck our feet into the water.

We then took the train to Vernazza. Vernazza was very busy on this day, but like the other towns very quaint and colorful and STEEP. We wandered about and then caught the train again to Corniglia, the only one of the five that is not on the sea. Instead you must navigate the 382 steps up to the town. We grabbed an nice gelato here and walked about the town. Corniglia is quiet and peaceful, and full of cobblestone alleyways.

We made it to all five towns and fell in love with this area. It would have been easy to stay a couple of weeks here, hike the trails, explore the towns in more detail and just take in the ambiance. But Florence and David are calling us, so we must move on.

“Do it. Buy the tickets. Book the trip. We ain’t here for long.” – Anonymous

“Rome was a poem pressed into service as a city.” — Anatole Broyard (1920-1990) – American writer and literary critic

“Rome is the city of echoes, the city of illusions, and the city of yearning.” – Giotto di Bondone

Heidi has retired, and now to celebrate….a trip of a lifetime, a trip to say, “WOW, what a career you had!!!”

We begin by flying to New York City, a stop over for a couple of days before journeying to Rome. We stayed at the cutest and friendliest little hotel right smack dab in the middle of the theater district, Hotel CasaBlanca. And right across the street is the Stephen Sondheim Theatre where we will go to see &Juliet after we have a delicious dinner at Tony’s Di Napoli, an Italian Family Style restaurant.

The next day is sun-filled, 75 degrees and perfect for walking…and that is exactly what we did. All around Central Park, seeing things we missed on past visits. (everyone of our past visits were filled with rain and snow) And then a walk on the High Line, an abandoned elevated train route turned into a walking park high above the streets of the city. We also made our way to Katz’s Deli for one of those famous pastrami sandwiches and to see where Harry and Sally sat, “I’ll have what she had!!!”

On the High Line with the Hudson in the background

Then it was off to Rome. For the first time ever we flew Condor Air…straight to Frankfurt, then connect to a Lufthansa flight to Rome. We enjoyed Condor Air…they paint their planes with stripes and in business class you even get a pair of striped socks and striped slippers to wear…cool!!!!

An overnight flight to Frankfurt (hellashish airport), then a quick flight to Leonardo da Vinci International Airport in Rome. We chose to stay in Trastevere, across the Tiber, for its distinct Roman charm, cobbled streets, and a bit quieter than the more touristy areas of Rome. Our choice of accommodation was The Hotel Santa Maria. A former convent, it now houses 19 rooms that overlook a charming courtyard filled with orange trees. It was a quiet and peaceful little oasis in the middle of the city. Great breakfast each morning and happy hour in the afternoon.

Since we arrived to our hotel by early afternoon, we spent the rest of the day exploring Trastevere. We grabbed lunch at Das Poeta, an amazing Pizza Spot just a few alleys away from us. Wandered the streets, ducked into a couple churches, and had our first dinner at a restaurant directly on the Piazza Santa Maria.

We had four days in Rome and we tried to fit in as much as possible…..we found the market at Campo Fiori and marveled at the Egyptian Obilesk (3500 years old) in the center of Piazza Navona. We stood in awe of the Pantheon and watched the sun shine in through the oculus. We fought the crowds to get a glimpse of the Trevi Fountain and snuck under the city to see where the water arrived at Vicus Caprarius and found the Art Nouveau courtyard at Galleria Sciarra. We made it out to Galleria Borghese, one of the few times we chose a taxi over walking, but we had to get there for our 4:00pm reservation. And oh my goodness, what a gem this museum is. To see Bernini’s Rape of Proserpina and how Neptune’s hand makes marble look soft as it presses into her thigh. And the metamorphosis of Bernini’s Daphne as she is transformed into a laurel tree at Apollo’s touch. So many pieces on display of one of my favorite artists…Caravaggio.

We loved visiting the Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola. When you look at the church from the outside, you see the roof is flat, but inside you get a totally different feeling. The ceiling has a false dome, and 3D ceiling with angels all painted by Andrea Pozzo.

The Colosseum was spectacular. We got there early and beat the crowds and the heat. You can gaze at this structure for hours and wonder about all the events that took place here. The Roman Forum was fun to wander around and get the sense of ancient Roman life. The Vatican Museum was magnificient. We also arrived early and by the time we got to the Sistine Chapel we had no trouble finding a seat on the side and just gaze up at each panel. Just so sad we were not allowed to take pictures. St. Peter’s is ginormous and so awe inspiring. And we got to see La Pietà, by Michelangelo, the only work of his that he signed.