Serifos, Greece

“Greece is not just a destination, it’s an experience that will stay with you forever.” — Unknown

“It takes a lifetime to discover Greece, but it only takes an instant to fall in love with her.” —Henry Miller

We have been traveling now for almost a month and we are ready for a “vacation from our vacation” So to end our trip we sail to Serifos, an island in the Cyclades Island chain about a two hour fast ferry ride from Piraeus. And what a ferry ride. About 30 minutes after departure, the winds picked up…stronger and stronger, gusts up to and over 50 mph. Soon the waves were monstrous and it was impossible to walk about. We heard loud bangs from the decks below, like cars were being tossed about. Plates and glasses were flying off the tables and behind the bar. It was white knuckle time!!!! The captain finally decided it best to slow down and before long we docked in Livadi, the port city on Serifos. Disembarking we had to hang onto our hats and everything else in fear of being whipped away by the wind. What a ride!!!!

Our ferry….but taken on a calmer day

We chose Serifos because it is a quiet Aegean Island…no airport, no cruise ships, only way to access it is by ferry. It would be our home for the next 10 days and afford us time to just relax.

We grabbed our little car rental and made our way up the mountain to our first stay, Boutique Hotel Rizes. We grabbed a Senior Suite complete with our own private pool and a killer view down to Livadi and over the the Chora. We had hoped to spend our entire time here, but the hotel closes down the first of October so we only had three nights in this location.

Cheers to Serifos

It rained hard the first couple days, but when the weather cleared we decided it was time we climbed to the top of the Chora. The Chora is the stunning, whitewashed hilltop capital, a picturesque maze of narrow alleys, traditional Cycladic houses, and Venetian castle ruins cascading down a steep slope with breathtaking Aegean views. We found a spot at the bottom of the hill to park the car and just started walking up.

The cat whisperer
Windmills
Chora climb
Chora Climb
At the top

It was time to switch spots…moving from Boutique Hotel Rizes to a little beach house. Before we arrived at our new digs, we were beginning to feel it was time to go home, but we needed to give this spot a try, and so happy that we did. It was the cutest little house right on this sandy crescent of a beach. We had an amazing deck where we spent hours reading, watching the ferries come and go, eating homemade sandwiches and potato chips and drinking a few glasses of wine, well, perhaps more than a few!!!! The beach was practically ours everyday. Occasionally others would show up for a bit, bask in the sun or swim naked in the sea, but mostly it was ours.

Just up the hill from us was a trail that led down to a neighbouring beach complete with little tavernas. And then over the next hill was Livadi Port and all the stores, shops and restaurants. Our beach house was perfectly situated. And we just relaxed and enjoyed our time together.

Hard to beat that view!!!

We chose not to explore too much, we just wanted to relax and take in the beauty of this idyllic island. But as they say, all good things must come to a close…and we were ready. It has been 5 and a half weeks since we have been home. Tomorrow we will start the journey…turn in the rental, ferry to Piraeus, car to Athens, flight to Frankfurt, flight to New York, flight to Seattle and then finally a late night flight to Wenatchee. We celebrated Heidi’s retirement in style and at the same time celebrated our 20th anniversary. And as this trip comes to a close, you can be sure a new one is already percolating.

Oh the fun we have

St. Augustine

“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” – Susan Sontag

St. Augustine, founded in 1565 by Spanish Colonists, is the oldest continuously inhabited European established settlement in the current United States. Everywhere you go in this seaside town are signs stating the oldest this, or the oldest that….We saw the Oldest House, The Oldest Jail, the Oldest School House…on and on and on. We had been in Orlando attending a conference and we had a couple days after the conference so we decided to rent a car and drive up to walk about St. Augustine.

We parked at one end of town and bought tickets for one of those hop-on, hop-off buses, and away we went. One of our favorite stops was the old fort – Castillo de San Marcos. Of course, it is the oldest masonry fort in the nation and the oldest structure in all of St. Augustine. The Fort was completed in 1695, came under fire for the first time in 1702 from British Forces. The Castillo was used as a military prison during the Revolutionary War, and at one time it held three signers of the Declaration of Independence within its walls. It is in remarkable condition and you can wander all about. Everyday, starting at 10:30 and repeating every hour until the last firing at 3:30, volunteers dressed in period costumes fire off one of the cannons.

Lightner Museum

Originally the Alcazar Hotel, built in 1888 by Standard Oil co-founder Henry Flagler, as a destination resort with a casino, a grand ballroom, bowling alley, huge indoor swimming pool (at the time the world’s largest), health facilities (a wellness center), Turkish Baths, and upscale rooms. Outside were tennis courts and croquet lawns. The Great Depression and the Wall Street Crash of 1929 and changing recreation tastes in the public brought an end to this luxury hotel and it closed its doors for good in 1931.

Today the building is home to the Lightner Museum, showcasing the vast, eclectic collections of Chicago publisher Otto Lightner. Otto wanted a museum as a “collection of collections”. Everything is in here, Victorian Art Glass, mechanical musical instruments, a shrunken head, an Egyptian mummy, toaster collections, baseball card collections, and so, so much more. And you can wander around parts of the old hotel, see where the pool was, the grand ballroom. Interesting fact, Gertrude Ederle, the first woman to swim across the English Channel (and held the record for quite a while for the fastest crossing) swam in the indoor pool.

Lightner Museum
Nice couple!!!!

Flagler College

Flagler College, the former Ponce de Leon Hotel

Across the street from the Museum is another hotel built by Henry Flagler, the Ponce de Leon Hotel. This beautiful hotel closed in 1967 and is now part of Flagler College, a private, liberal-arts college founded in 1968. Besides being a dry campus, it is famous for the paranormal activity that is said to occur with some frequency. It is said that the mistress of Mr. Flagler, who lived in a room on the fourth floor, killed herself in a fit of despair. Her spirit has been reported roaming the halls. Mr. Flagler’s wife is also reported haunting the college. Mr. Flagler was able to have her diagnosed as insane, so he could then divorce her to be with his mistress. She spent her life in an insane asylum. And lastly, Mr. Flagler himself is said to traipse around the halls. When he died, his body was put on display in the lobby of the hotel and his spirit now keeps watch over his beloved hotel. We didn’t see any ghosts while we were there, just a beautiful building.

Time for a little rest

Lincolnville

Historic Lincolnville

Perhaps the most interesting time we had was visiting the Lincolnville Neighborhood just a little ways behind the Alcazar Hotel. Back in the late 1800’s, this neighborhood began as a “freeman” community, a place where emancipated slaves came to live. The neighborhood grew and thrived with churches, school, stores built. In the 1960’s, Lincolnville attracted nationwide attention for the roll it played in the civil rights movement. Demonstrations were held here. Martin Luther King Jr. stayed here numerous times. He was once arrested at a nearby Monson Motor Hotel when he stopped in to order lunch. The white owner, James Brock, refused to serve him and called the police to arrest Mr. King for trespassing. At a later date, James Brock poured acid into the swimming pool when black and white protesters jumped into the pool. All through this neighborhood are old homes with plaques describing the history. Quite the neighborhood.

And in this neighborhood we found our favorite little cafe, THE BLUE HEN…where Heidi, who happens to LOVE biscuits and gravy, found the very best here at the Blue Hen. And that is saying something for Heidi has tried buscuits and gravy all over the place.

Some other sights we saw…

The Old Senator…a live oak more than 600 years old

After spending a most enjoyable day at this old town, we headed to Cocoa Beach for a quick shopping trip at Ron Jon Surf shop and dinner at Coconuts on the Beach.

Fun day!!!!