Balloon over Bagan…picture “borrowed” from The Telegraph in the UK

I have been searching for a place where life is simple and moves at a slower pace. A place that is still fairly innocent, where the modern world hasn’t “spoiled”. I found it in Bagan.

BAGAN
Bagan is an ancient city, dating back to the 9th century when it was the capital of the Kingdom of Pagan. Today three small cities make up the former flourishing capital; New Bagan, Old Bagan and Nyaung U. In and about this tri-city area lies over 2500 temples left over from 10,000 or so built between the 10th and 13th century. Big temples that scrape the sky, tiny temples smaller than a drive-up coffee stand. Ornate temples, simple and plain temples, temples built in a few months, others constructed over decades. Single entry temples with a single Buddha, four sided temples with a Buddha facing each cardinal directions. Like snowflakes, each one unique and different.

BALLOONS
If you google BEST BALLOON FLIGHTS IN THE WORLD and compare the sites, you will find many of the same places…..Cappadocia, Turkey; The Serengeti, Tanzania; Gstaad, Switzerland; Loire Valley, France; Monument Valley, Utah; and Bagan, Myanmar. I booked a flight with Oriental Ballooning and it was worth every penny of the almost $400.00 fee. It was one of the most surreal experiences I have ever had. Up bright and early, the van picked me up and brought me to the staging area. I was escorted to a beautifully draped table where I joined my balloon mates and shared coffee, tea and pastries. While we got to know each other, the worker bees readied the balloons for flight. The pre-flight preparation was a show in itself. The burners in the baskets were all fired and prepped….the flames lit up the dark, morning sky. The balloons were laid out, lines hooked to the baskets, and big fans begin to fill the balloon, the basket was then tipped on its side and the burners roared to life sending hot air into the cavernous mouth of the balloon. The pilots then gave us our safety talk and we climbed into the basket. With a massive roar of the burner our balloon slowly, ever so slowly, lifted. I think I know how astronauts feel, that sense of weightlessness. It is truly dreamlike as we silently flew over these amazing temples. We felt like voyeurs looking down at the little villages spying goats being herded, laundry being hung, children walking to school. We flew up to dizzying heights and down so low we scraped the top of trees. We watched the sun come up and a flock of white herons fly between us and the ground. Our balloon was last to land, almost an hour and a half after take-off. Our intrepid pilot led up to a hastily set-up circle of chairs where we enjoyed the traditional champagne toast. We all left rather giddy, not because of the champagne, but because, for a short while, we soared like birds high above the world. Simply one of the most satisfying adventures I have ever experienced.

Part of our “fleet”

BEES AND A BRUSH WITH DEATH
During the day I explored the temples with the help of my trusty little mountain bike.

I came across a lonely single track trail that had my name on it. It ended at a beautiful little temple.

There I was, a temple all to myself, no one around for at least a quarter mile. The sun was shining, a light breeze keeping all cool. I respectfully left my flip-flops at the edge of the temple and entered. A simple seated Buddha greeted me. To my right I noticed a small stairway leading to the level above. Who could resist???

Now, remember, when these temples were built there probably weren’t many people 6 ft 4 inches tall…so I crouched over and carefully crept up the tiny passageway. Near the top there was a sharp bend to the left. With head down and nearly crawling on hands and knees I navigated the final five steps. Only when I heard a massive buzzing sound did I realize my backpack scraped a large honeybee nest (similar to the one pictured below) hanging just inside the exit of the stairs.

As fast as my rickety legs could carry me, I jumped as far away as possible. You see, Malaysian Honey Bees carry a wicked sting. And when they sting they emit pheromones which prompt other bees to attack. Each nest can hold thousands of these little devils. I do not know how I did it, but I escaped without a single sting. While ever so lucky and thanking Buddha and every deity I knew, I quickly realized myself in another predicament. Seems this temple was built with only one passageway to the upper level. The only way down was through the same stairwell. I had to go under the bees to get out.

After 30 minutes or so, the bees calmed down and returned to their honey comb. I took my backpack off and ever so slowly, painfully slow, I did the best imitation of a little child bumping down the steps on their bums. Bump, bump, bump….goodbye honey bees. Thank you for sparing me!!!

BARGAINING WITH AN EXPERT

Everywhere in SE Asia, you will find the postcard hawkers. Beautiful pictures of the area where you are visiting up for sale. Bagan is no different. In front of most of the larger temples you will find people selling postcards and arts and crafts. The game begins. You receive an over-inflated price and you counter 50% lower, back and forth it goes until eventually you come to the bottom line. I usually hold my own in these negotiations, that is, until I met the master bargainer.

I took a dusty road down to the banks of the Irrawaddy River, and there was this little girl, probably about five years old. She was still in her school uniform and was carrying a small little satchel.

Out of her bag she took out a plastic sheet with four homemade “post cards” and said, “Hey Mister, would you like a postcard?”

I said, “How much?”

“Two Thousand Kyat” (about $1.50 USD)

I countered with, “One thousand”

A shake of the head and, “Two thousand”

“Oh no”, I said. “One thousand!!!!”

She then gave me her final offer. “Two thousand or no postcards”

I caved…she had my heart from the moment I saw her.

She ran into her little home clutching those two bills like she just won the lottery. I am betting she is still busy making more postcards!!!

I will do one more post on Bagan in order to show off more of the temples.
I loved Ankor Wat in Cambodia, but in my book, Bagan is the place to go.