And Again, Todos Santos

Posted on January 9, 2025 by buskbob

“There is nothing more beautiful than the way the ocean refuses to stop kissing the shoreline, no matter how many times it gets sent away”

Growing up I had friends who every year, every summer, went on the same vacation, to the very same spot they went the year before, and the year before that, and the year before that. And I naively thought, “How silly….this big, wide world and you return again and again to the same spot….Don’t you get tired of that? What is the allure?”

Well now I know. For the last six years we have been coming to Todos Santos, every December, to escape the dreariness of our Wenatchee winter. And over the past six years, I have learned to appreciate coming to the same spot. You find it’s familiar, it feels like home. You know every road, the location of each and every speed bump. where to find the most delicious chiliquiles, the most aromatic coffee, the secluded beach. People recognize you, treat you like friends, welcome you. Even though you have been here a ton, you learn to find the new in the familiar….the boutique you always walked past, the brass doorknob shaped like a gecko, the saguaro cactus that looks exactly like it is waving hello. There is no question as to what to pack…we know the weather and what to expect, we can consolidate down to one carry on, we know to bring the binoculars for whale spotting and salt for the rims of the margarita glasses. We are open to uncovering new adventures and experiences, undiscovered corners, new restaurants, new beaches. Anxiety is reduced for you know all the ins-and-outs of immigration and custom control, how to avoid the rash of requests for taxis and time-shares, where to pick up your car rental, how many pesos you need at the toll booth, what stores are open on Christmas Day….you have it all locked down!!!! There is a lot of comfort in coming to the same spot year after year.

This year we were not going for adventure, or dancing or drinking….we came to Todos Santos for one thing only, to relax!!! And that we did. Everyday to the beach, to lie upon the golden sand shaded only by our little umbrella, marvel at the whales spouting and breaching, and reading all the novels we haven’t had the time to read until now.

And when you are in Todos Santos, there is never a lack of good food everywhere. We actually tried a few new places. Miguels, in Todos Santos for the past 24 years. We had their world famous chile rellenos stuffed with lobster and had a chance to talk with Miguel about all the changes he has seen. And we went to a little hole-in-the-wall spot, Tacos El Poblano, where they make the tortillas by hand and the tacos el pastor and tacos asada were out-of-this-world. We ordered chips and guac and I swear there was close to a gallon of guacamole!!!! So good. And this year we had to try a new pizza spot, Buone Pizza, take out only cooked in a brick oven….we had the pepperoni and the Italiana. Brought them home and ate them on the deck with homemade margaritas. And of course, we had to go to some of our favorites…The Green Room, La Esquina, Docecuarenta, Na Há at La Poza and Heirbabuena in El Pescadero.

Coffee at Docecuarenta….our favorite morning spot

Lobster filled Chile Rellenos at Miguels

Something new this year was the meeting up with some friends, totally unplanned. First we met up with Elke and her fiance Rob. We met Elke at Burrowing Owl Winery in Oliver, BC. She was our server in the tasting room and we just hit it off and during our conversation we both found out we were going to be in Todos Santos at the same time (they in El Pescadero) So we met up for dinner at Heirbabuena and had a wonderful dinner. But there is more….Heidi has been working with Janel Keating Hambly at work. Janel is a nationally known speaker and author for Solution Tree….a real expert on Professional Learning Communities. Janel, and her husband Jay, had planned a trip to Cabo and then a few days in Todos Santos. They wanted to stay at the same spot that Heidi and I stay at, Villas La Mar, but unfortunately it was full, so they booked a room a La Poza, the sister property just down the road. Turns out Janel was the principal at my son’s elementary school, and Jay was the Superintendent at the district. Such a small world. We had dinner with them twice…once at Na Há (La Poza) and then again on New Year’s Day at the Todos Santos Brewery (the Rose Bowl was playing…let’s not mention the score) Such fun meeting with them and learning about all the connections we have. Such amazing people.

Visiting with Elke and Rob from Oliver BC

Dinner at Todos Santos Brewery with Janel and Jay

We definitely completed our goal of relaxation. (It did help that we had a 90 minute couple massage) We returned as usual with deep, dark tans and relaxed body and mind….until we got to the airport in Seattle. Our evening flight to Wenatchee was cancelled, of course only after we flew to Wenatchee and couldn’t land. Spent one uncomfortable night in the airport as we couldn’t find a hotel at 2:30 am in the morning. We were booked for the 12:30 pm flight only to find it was delayed 2 hours. Coming into Wenatchee it appeared we were landing only to have the pilot abort the landing at the last minute saying the runway just wasn’t visible. But he was going to try another approach, from the other end. Nail biting time as we descended, nothing but thick fog out the windows and then, with only seconds before touchdown, we see land below and a huge cheer erupts as the wheels touched down in Wenatchee!!!! An exciting ending to a most wonderful trip. Until next year….yes, we are one of those people now!!!

December Sun in Todos Santos….and Turtles

Posted on January 22, 2024 by buskbob

Every day is a journey, and the journey itself is home.
-Matsu Basho

Once again, we escaped the cold, the grey, the snow of Eastern Washington, and made our annual pilgrimage to Todos Santos. Two week respite of sun, warmth, and good food. Time to forget about the stress of work and just veg for a bit.

Turtles

We have a beach we like to call our own, just a few miles north of town. We like it as we are usually the only ones there. Usually we have nothing but sun drenched sand just waiting for us to lay down our towel, plant the umbrella and unfold the chairs, but today we found a beach being pounded by huge waves. It was hard to find even a small spot of dry sand. But find a spot we did, it looked safe, we set up and as the sun was shining we thought we’d wait a bit to see if the tide was going out and perhaps the waves would subside. No sooner had we sat down that we spied a baby turtle trying to make it’s way to the surf. The cutest little thing. The waves though were so fierce the turtle wasn’t able to make any headway and was being beaten back further and further. And then we saw further up the beach more turtles…some helpless on their backs, others in danger of being eaten by a flock of opportunist seagulls, and others tossed so far up the beach they were almost into the scrub brush. It appeared a nest of turtles had just hatched and these baby turtles were desperately trying to make their way to the waves. But with the conditions as they were, all were in danger of dying, so we got to work. Heidi was the spotter, and I scooped up the sand under the turtle and carried it to the surf, timing my release with the outgoing wave. One after another we watched our little hatchlings make their way into the ocean. A few we thought on the verge of death, found on their backs drying out in the sun, perked up as soon as the water hit them. The instinct in them to pursue the open water is amazing. We counted 27 turtles we saved. We felt like heros!!!!!

Go Little Guy!!! Go!!!

So Cute!!!!

While we busied ourselves saving the turtles, we failed to notice the tide was rising, the surf was coming up over the sand berm and washing inland. Our beach towels, chairs, and cooler were all washed inland. And scarier yet, our car was now surrounded by several inches of sea water. Quick as can be, we collected our beach gear, hopped into the car and escaped before becoming part of the ocean. But we had huge grins on our faces knowing 27 turtles made it to sea.

I think I’ll let some of our pictures do the rest of the talking on this posting.

Adios, Todos Santos….until next year!!!!

Yes, Todos Santos Again!!!!

Posted on January 18, 2023 by buskbob

In travel, as in life, seek places that speak to your soul, add value and perspective, have both an impact and the opportunity to make an impression and provide memories for a lifetime. THOSE are your places.

Seems every winter we have been heading down to the Baja Peninsula in search of sun. We used to go to Hawaii in December to escape the snow, the ice, the cold. But we kept finding rain and crowds, so we tried Cabo one year and came upon Todos Santos. This has become our “go to” winter escape spot.

SInce we have been here so many times, we have pretty much explored the surrounding area, have visited most of the shops and art galleries, and have sampled the food at most of the restaurants. So what to do this time?

Well first off, we made reservations at a new spot, It is always a little stressful trying out a spot having never been there before….but we read all the reviews, looked at every photo we could find and said, “Let’s go for it!” And so glad we did. Named VILLAS LA MAR, the villas sit tucked into the hillside high above the ocean. Each unit has a commanding view of the Pacific and a lagoon below filled with water fowl. We sat on that deck every day and watched whales migrate past us on their way to their birthing lagoons. What a sight. (I even brought a set of high powered binoculars along so we could get an “up-close” look) Each deck was equipped with a gas fire pit…so nice when the sun set and the air turned cool. Our bed was situated such that when you woke in the morning and sat up, the entire ocean was in view. Heck, you even had a view from the shower!!!! Besides the view, we loved that our apartment had a full kitchen so we could eat in whenever we wanted. And a real plus for Heidi, every thing was spick and span, clean as a whistle. The ever so friendly and ever so helpful staff was there when needed, even loaned us a couple beach chairs, an umbrella and a cooler for our stay. The only negative, if you could call it that, was our unit was at the tippy-top, up 94 stairs. But we thought it was a good way to work off some of the weight gain we were sure to experience after eating all the delicious food this village has to offer.

Knowing the area so well, we knew where to go for a beach of our own. Our trusty little VW Polo rental did well as we navigated down dusty, rutted dirt roads until we arrived at “our” beach. There we set up our umbrella, chairs, towels and sat down to soak up the sun and read a book or two. Now and then, for no reason at all, you hop up and take a long walk down the deserted beach. And, with our cooler filled with ice and Pacifico Beer, we could enjoy a refreshment with our picnic lunch. When we tired of the sun, we headed to the nearest beach bar to partake in some guac and chips and an ice cold margarita. I know, sounds a bit boring, but that is what we love to do when we come here….pretty much nothing, void of all stress, and above all, taking in the sunshine!!!!

Last time we were here we were on the search for the best Margarita in town. This time, our quest would be the best chilaquiles. Now chilaquiles happen to be Heidi’s favorite breakfast meal. You start with fresh, fried tortilla chips, add them to a simmering Verde (green) sauce, some prefer a red sauce. Place the soaked tortilla chips at the bottom of a bowl. Add on top some Cotija cheese or queso fresco, a fried egg, some onion, cilantro, avocado, and beans (refried or whole). Delicious!!!!!! Goes well with a mimosa!!!! We tried them all over town, and voted for the one we enjoyed the most. (doesn’t take much to entertain us!!!!) Hands down, unanimous all around, the winner was DoceCuarenta….a lovely, little coffee roasting spot just out of town.

Chilaquiles at Docecuarenta – Oh So GOOD!!!

cute little spot….and they roast their coffee on the spot

It is amazing the quality food you can find in this little town. Besides DoceCuarenta, we were bound and determined to find some new dining locations. Our first find, Taller 17, a hole in the wall bakery/coffee shop. Only three customers allowed in the shop at one time, there always seems to be a line. But the wait is worth it when you exit with expertly brewed latte or cappuccino and a couple of heaven-sent cinnamon rolls. My eyes roll up into my head just thinking about those mind blowing cinnamon rolls.

Just so tiny but fill with do much goodness

We had heard of this amazing farm to table spot, just down the highway in Pescadero, Hierbabuena. As always, you drive down a dirt road for about a mile, and then there it is, in the middle of their farm. As much as possible, this restaurant pulls ingredients directly from their fields and uses only locally sourced meats and poultry. Everything was fresh, fresh, fresh. And again, the service was impeccable. But when you have Heidi along, who can resist falling in love with us?

My daughter, Jamie, from her trip down here last year, recommended Fish Tacos Santo Chilote for the best tacos in town. Our first night in town, that is where we went after we had checked into the room. And Jamie was spot on…amazing shrimp tacos and fish tacos. You add whatever extras you want on top, and then let your taste buds have a party!!!! And their margaritas were large and strong!!!!

A trip to Todos Santos is never complete without a walk-about the town. We mosey into stores, talk with the gallery owners, and try to find interesting things to photograph.

we actually brought a shaker and muddler from home so we could make our own margaritas

Every year we get a picture with Mr. Margarita at Tequila Sunrise

So, I’ll be keeping this post a bit short. We came away with tans to make everyone at home jealous. We read a couple books each. Despite the stairs, I’m pretty sure we will be taking home a few extra pounds. We found some new restaurants and place to stay. But more than anything, we enjoyed our time together here in Todos Santos. Nothing better than 10 days alone with the person you love.

Will we come again? Probably. But it is growing. More and more homes are being built. The word has gotten out. I suppose when our empty beaches start to become populated, then we will go in search of a new sleepy village on the ocean.

always like taking photos of this beautiful woman!!!

Winter Trip to Mexico

Posted on January 17, 2018 by buskbob

We had planned to head back to Vieques, our special little island in the Caribbean, but the trifecta of hurricanes Irma, Jose and Maria killed those plans. Instead we decided we would give Mexico a try, specifically Cabo San Lucas. For some reason we have never ventured south of the border for a holiday. There was always somewhere else on our travel radar that trumped our southern neighbor. That and the reports of rising levels of violence. Shortly after making our reservations we read the following State Department posting for the Cabo area:
Criminal activity and violence, including homicide, remain an issue throughout the state. According to the Baja California State Secretariat for Public Security, the state experienced an increase in homicide rates compared to the same period in 2016. While most of these homicides appeared to be targeted, criminal organization assassinations, turf battles between criminal groups have resulted in violent crime in areas frequented by U.S. citizens. Bystanders have been injured or killed in shooting incidents.
But we were assured from our contacts in Cabo that tourists were safe so, with a little trepidation, onto our plane we did board. When leaving out of Seattle, tradition has it I always grab a Seattle Times to read on board…..bad choice this time. There in black and white was an article describing six people hung from highway overpasses just out of the San Cabo airport the day before we left. Should I show Heidi or not???? Too late…she saw. Trepidation is building to consternation. But wait….it gets worse.
The next day we decide to drive to the Walmart in Cabo to grab some groceries and supplies. On the way we cross a bridge spanning a dry riverbed and there to our right was a body just lying in the sand. “Don’t look”, I say. Of course, Heidi looks, and being the positive person she is, she assumes he is just passed out drunk, sleeping it off. But why was there a small battalion of police walking about? About an hour later, shopping completed, we cross the arroyo on our return trip….and there, in the same spot, still uncovered, was the body. Definitely asleep, like forever asleep. So what is beyond consternation? Alarm? Worriment? Jitters? Horror? Angst? Dread?…..all would fit our feelings.

We had rented a cute little casita with a pool mid-way between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. As we both came down with terrible colds, we decided to just hunker down, enjoy the warmth and sun, read our books and try to erase the vision of the dead body from our minds.

: Our pool

: Looking up to our casita

: Looking out our front door

: Our living room

: The kitchen

: Heidi’s morning coffee mug pic.

A couple days later, feeling a bit better, we ventured out to explore the area. First day into Cabo San Lucas…a bit touristy for us…seems to cater to the younger crowd, but we did find some amazing tacos. Another day into San Jose del Cabo…home to the airport and more laid back than Cabo. Thursday night is Art Night in San Jose del Cabo. The roads are all closed to traffic, the galleries open their doors, singers, dancers and entertainers take to the streets, and food smells from all the restaurants hang in the air. We just roamed from street to street taking in the sights and smells. Fun time.

Church of San Jose del Cabo

: Dining on Art Night

: Looking at the street in San Jose del Cabo

: Our daily dose of Margarita

: How many is that for you???

: Art Night and a new friend for Heidi.

: Serenaded at dinner

Left early one day for a road trip up the Pacific coast to Todos Santos. Todos Santos is a little art community, home to an enclave of ex-pats. Cobblestone streets, art galleries, little cafes….our kind of place. Ate at Tequila Sunrise Cafe across the street from the Hotel California. The Hotel actually has nothing to do with the Eagle’s song, but you find yourself humming the tune all the same. At Tequila Sunrise we had probably the very best margarita known to mankind and served to us by Mr. Margarita himself…worth the trip just for the beverage.(recipe at end of blog) We also grabbed a cute little piece of pottery and, a must for us, a piece of artwork to frame when we return home.

Mmmmmm, sooooo good.

: The Hotel California

: With Mr. Margarita

: Mosaic in Todos Santos

: Love the old doors

: Mission Todos Santos

: Inside the mission church

: Statue outside the mission

Once we got over the dead bodies, we actually enjoyed our time in Cabo. The sunsets and sunrises were spectacular. The people we met were kind and friendly. The food….well, the food was amazing. We found a little hole-in-the-wall place in Cabo named Gardenias that served the absolute best tacos for just a couple bucks and occasionally we splurged on high end restaurants. Cabo is definitely growing with many a new hotel being built. Across the highway from us was the Grand Velas Resort. Rooms here go for $900.00+ a night and they have a taco that sells for $25,000.00. Really, $25,000.00….filled with Kobe beef, Beluga Caviar, civet coffee and even some gold flakes.

We’ve always been foodies and we got our fill here in Cabo.

: Fried bananas and ice cream

: Our daily dose of Margarita

: fish tacos

: amazing chips

: Burger and fries

: soft shell crab tacos

: Tacos at Gardenia

: Love Pacifico beer!!!

We are glad we decided to visit Cabo…it was close and somewhat inexpensive. The scenery was spectacular and nothing but sun and warmth in the middle of winter. Nice place to escape the cold and snow in Washington state.

horses at dusk

: Walking along the beach

: Waiting for our table at an upscale restaurant….but no $2500.00 taco for us.

: Enjoying our evening out

: Great sunsets

: Sunset…almost every night

: Cactus at night

: Nice beaches…some a bit rough

Recipe for Margarita served at Tequila Sunrise Cafe in Todos Santos

Wet the rim of a Margarita glass using a slice of key lime (do not use water!)
Salt the rim of the glass
Fill glass 3/4 full with large ice cubes (about 3 oz of ice)
Add 3 oz of quality blanco/silver/plata tequila from 100% de agave. The El Capricho tequila is what is used in Todos Santos.
Add 1 oz of Cointreau
Add 1 oz of Damiana liqeuer
Squeeze 4 key limes into the drink, add a lime slice to the rim and “stir slowly” with a straw.

Our Adventures

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.”

Tag Archives: todos santos

And Again, Todos Santos

December Sun in Todos Santos….and Turtles

Yes, Todos Santos Again!!!!

Winter Trip to Mexico