Vieques, Our First Visit

Posted on February 8, 2025 by buskbob

“It seems that the more places I see and experience, the bigger I realize the world to be. The more I become aware of, the more I realize how relatively little I know of it, how many places I have yet to get to, how much more there is to learn. Maybe that’s enlightenment enough – to know that there is no final resting place of the mind, no moment of smug clarity. Perhaps wisdom, at least for me, means realizing how small and unwise I am, and how far I have yet to go.”
– Anthony Bourdain

*******************************************************************************************************************

Years ago, 2010, Heidi and I were walking along a beach on the island of Kauai, stooped over, looking for shells. And coming the other way was another couple, also stooped over, looking for shells. And when our paths crossed, we of course shared our treasures with each other, ooohed and aaahed at the cowries and cones, and in the conversation that transpired, they shared the best shelling they had ever done was on the island of Vieques. “Vieques???, Where the hell is that?”

We found out it is a little island just off the coast of Puerto Rico…part of what is called the Spanish Virgin Islands consisting of Vieques and little Culebra. Quiet little Caribbean islands, not nearly as visited as their more popular sisters, the American and British Virgin Islands. Sounded like our kind of place…..so we booked a trip. Using points, I found a great flight out of Vancouver B.C. that flew to Dallas and then directly to San Juan, Puerto Rico. We would spend the night and then catch a quick flight over to Vieques the next morning.

And so, off we went, driving to Vancouver, B.C., on a lovely, snowy, white-knuckle journey. It snowed the entire way. We found a hotel that not only gave us a place to sleep but also let us abandon—uh, I mean, park—our car while we were away.

The next morning, we shoveled our way to Vancouver International Airport, ready for our nice, simple, stress-free flight to Dallas. Except—plot twist—it was canceled. Why? Because of snow. In Dallas. Yes, apparently, that’s a thing. Who knew?

After some quality bonding time with the airline staff, we were rerouted on a slightly less direct itinerary: Vancouver → Chicago → Atlanta → San Juan. Not ideal, but hey, it worked. That is, until the snow in Vancouver (seriously, enough already!) delayed our flight to Chicago. Now our layover in O’Hare was going to be tighter than my jeans after Thanksgiving.

On the almost empty plane, the flight attendants took pity on us and let us move up to first class so we could make a quick exit. We landed at O’Hare with 15 minutes to make our connection, which, of course, was on the absolute opposite side of the airport. Because why wouldn’t it be?

With Heidi’s suitcase in one hand and mine in the other, we took off in a dramatic, slow-motion-worthy airport sprint, dodging travelers, weaving through corridors like Olympians—minus the athleticism. Breathless, sweaty, and questioning our life choices, we reached the gate, fully expecting to see closed doors. But for once, luck was on our side—our flight to Atlanta was delayed. For the first time in history, a flight delay felt like a gift from the travel gods.

Then came the flight to Atlanta. Ah, turbulence. Not just any turbulence—this was the kind that makes you rethink every bad decision in your life. The kind where people turn green, rosaries are clutched, babies scream, adults scream, and I suddenly understood the true meaning of fear. Heidi’s nails became permanently embedded in my arm. We tightened our seat belts. We prayed. We seriously wondered if we would survive.

And that was only half the journey.

Now before I go any further, I need to explain something. This trip was Heidi’s first excursion outside of the Continental United States (not counting a couple of trips to Hawaii) This trip was to another country. And although a passport wasn’t needed, it was a big deal for Heidi and she was a little, well more than a little, apprehensive. The delays and the turbulence were not helping. But, believe it or not, this trip gets worse.

Somehow—miraculously—we landed at Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport. After profusely thanking the pilots (pretty sure one of them got a hug) and dramatically kissing the ground, we stumbled onto our next flight. This one, thank goodness, was blissfully smooth, and just after midnight, we finally touched down in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

The airport? Total ghost town. Not a single soul in sight. Everything was locked up tighter than my grandma’s secret cookie recipe. No food, no people—just us, our luggage, and the eerie hum of fluorescent lights.

We managed to flag down a taxi, but our driver spoke zero English. No problem, though—Heidi broke out her muy limitado Spanish, and between that, hand gestures, and hopeful smiles, we figured he probably knew where we were going.

Then he turned the wrong way down a one-way street.

And THEN he jumped the curb onto the sidewalk to dodge an oncoming car.

At that moment, we had two thoughts:

We survived that hellish turbulence just to get kidnapped and left for dead in the backstreets of San Juan.
Is this guy even a real taxi driver?!

Heidi shot me a look that screamed: “You said this was going to be SAFE!” I mentally prepared an apology speech… and possibly my last will and testament.

But just as we were about to start mapping out our escape plan, the taxi whipped around a final corner and—BAM—there was our hotel.

Sweet, glorious, non-moving safety.

We paid, muttered a stunned gracias, and bolted inside. Phew.

Early the next morning, we made our way to Isla Grande Airport, a tiny regional airport conveniently located next to the cruise ship terminal—and by “airport,” I mean a place that looked more like a bus station with a runway. We had booked our flight to Vieques on Vieques Air, feeling pretty confident in our choice.

While waiting, we struck up a conversation with some fellow travelers who were also headed to Vieques—except they were flying Cape Air. Casual small talk turned into unintentional terror induction when one of them casually asked, “Oh, you’re not flying Cape Air? You’re on Vieques Air? You know, the airline with planes held together by duct tape?”

Fantastic. Just what Heidi needed to hear. Her eyes widened, her face paled, and I could practically hear her mentally drafting her final goodbyes. Meanwhile, I tried to downplay it, reassuring her that “duct tape is, like, super strong, right?” Spoiler alert: that did not help.

Prior to boarding we had to be weighed. Same with our luggage. Next we were led out to our plane sitting just off the taxiway. and were told where to sit according to our weight….to balance the plane, a Britten-Norman Islander, capacity 9 people. We quickly glanced about to see if there was any visible duct tape. I was seated in the very back, Heidi was closer to the front. Heidi had taken a dose of dramamine in preparation for this flight. The doors closed, the engine started, and 30 minutes later we touched down on the tiny little runway on the island of Vieques. WE MADE IT!!!!

The host at the hotel we were staying at was there to pick us up. He asked if we needed to go to the car rental company and we reminded him that he guaranteed to have a car waiting for us. He forgot. Now all the car rental agencies were sold out. But as soon as we arrived at the hotel, he got on the phone and called a buddy of his who agreed to rent us his car for our stay!!!!

Our hotel, Evamer Studios and Bungalows, was a small, 10 room boutique-like hotel right on the water on the north side of the island. It sits on a bluff and you have amazing views of the water all the way over to Culebra. We were booked into a small, one room “bungalow” with a small refrig and microwave. Half-way through our stay, the upstairs “suite” came open and we switched rooms. We now had a balcony to sit on and a room double the size. It was perfect, except for the one day it rained, buckets and buckets of rain driven sideways by the wind pelted the ocean side windows and door. In poured buckets and and buckets of water through the shutters and under the door. We used every available towel we had to staunch the flow. It was a long night, but in the morning, the sun came out and all was well.

Before we go on, a little bit about this island. It isn’t very large, about 50 square miles in size (about the same size as Martha’s Vineyard and just a bit smaller than San Juan Island) It is about 20 miles long and 4.5 miles wide at it’s widest spot. People have been living here since 2500 BC. It is said Columbus “discovered” the island, and was soon under Spanish control. No settlements were established and essentially the island was a lawless area often inhabited by pirates. In 1811, the island officially came under the control of Puerto Rico and permanent settlements were established. The United States acquired land on Vieques, after the Spanish-American War, when the Treaty of Paris in 1898 ceded Puerto Rico (including Vieques) to the U.S., and subsequently, the Navy purchased large portions of the island during the 1940’s to establish a naval training range, essentially taking over two-thirds of the island for military use. The locals were all pushed to the center of the island, many had to give up their homes to the USA at a “fixed” price…in other words, the land was stolen. For years the entire eastern portion of this gorgeous island was used as a bombing range, live fire exercises, amphibious landings and mock war-games. The area was used not only by the USA, but also all NATO nations. The Western Side held a large over-the-horizon radar station and bunkers for ammunition storage. The US Navy also disposed of hazardous materials, including oils, solvents, lubricants, lead paint, and acid. In 2003, the USA government finally ceded the eastern portion of the island back to Vieques. It qualified as a superfund area and millions have been spent cleaning up all that the Navy deposited, and ittle by little the island has been cleared of unexploded ordinances. Vieques is once again picture perfect Caribbean island. Beaches are pristine. Horses run wild. Palm trees sway in the wind. The sand is powdery white, the water turquoise blue, and the sky azure!!!!

The day was young and we wanted to get to a beach. So we loaded up the car with beach chairs, umbrellas, a cooler filled with ice and made a bee-line to the closest beach.The beaches on Vieques all have two names. The Navy named all the beaches by color based on the color of flag placed on them for training exercises…thus you have Blue Beach, Green Beach, Red Beach, etc. While the locals still use the color names, the original names of the beaches are coming back into vogue. Blue Beach is La Chiva (female goat). La Chiva is that Caribbean beach you see in advertisements…turquoise water, white powdery sand, palm trees, gentle waves lapping the shore. Jaw-dropping beautiful !!!

We set up our chairs, layed out our towels, and Heidi fell fast asleep complements of the dramamine, not the non-drowsy type. We didn’t notice until later that her snoozing spot was right under a coconut tree heavy with coconuts. Luckily none fell.

For the next ten days we tried out every beach on the island. Our favorite by far though, was La Chiva. We would set our chairs in the water, tiny waves lapping at our feet, a bottle of cold Corona at our side…heaven!!!! The water was crystal clear and I would swim out to the nearby island, Isla Chiva. For fun I would dive down and collect giant conch shells. Fish were everywhere keeping me company. Pretty much all the beaches on Vieques were pristine, sand powdery soft, water turquoise blue and for the most part pretty empty of people.

And while people were missing, horses were everywhere, just running wild all over the island.

And often we would come across a colorful iguana

and once a little gecko hitched a ride on passenger side door.

On the Eastern Side of the island, we visited the mile long Mosquito Pier, built in 1941 by the Navy in an attempt to connect Vieques to Puerto Rico….plan never came to fruition. We explored Green Beach (Punta Arenas; Sandy Point), the abandoned ammunition bunkers, the old sugar mill and the three hundred year old Ceiba Tree. We found the “Stonehenge of Vieques”, a spot on a hill where there is a circle of massive boulders. It was here archaeologists uncovered a 4000 year old skeleton. All we found were massive boulders and a hornets nest.

We spent time in each of the two cities…Isabel Segunda and Esperanza. Isabel Segunda is on the north side of the island and is the larger of the two and the “capital” of the island. It is a charming little town with colorful houses, shops, eateries, gas stations and grocery stores and the Ferry Dock. It is home to the very last Spanish Fort built in the Americas.

Esperanza is on the southern side of the island and is considered the “tourist” town, filled with restaurants and cafes, watersport businesses, and lots of shops. It is located right on the water and the lovely malecon (strip or walkway) is perfect for strolling and watching the sun set.

Couldn’t resist this picture…love the floatation device!!!

For food we enjoyed the island bounty and the amazing restaurants in both Isabel Segunda and Esperanza. Our favorite restaurant was El Quenepo, situated on the main road in Esperanza. One evening, sitting at “our” little table closest to the road, we watched a pick-up drive by, honking its horn. In the back were a bunch of young men, one of them holding up high the largest lobster we have ever seen. That was one proud guy!!!!

Eating at El Quenepo…look at those tans!!!!

One thing that Vieques is known for is it’s bioluminescent bay, Bio Bay. This shallow bay is filled with dinoflagellate Pyrodinium bahamense, a phytoplankton which glows blue when agitated. The best times to go are when there is no moon, and our stay was perfect for that. We booked a tour of the bay, loaded into a four-wheel drive bus, and led through deeply rutted, mud filled roads til we came to the bay. Heidi and I shared a kayak and into the bay we paddled. Every time the paddle hit the water, the ripples would light up, an iridescent blue color. Fish swimming below would glow. It was other-worldly. At the time of our tour, you were also allowed to swim about in the middle of the bay. Of course I jumped at the chance. What an experience…every time my arm exited the water, blue drops would cascade from my arms. I left a trail of blue wherever I swam. While I was swimming, Heidi was treading water next to our kayak and felt something brush her leg. Something large. She immediately thought it was me, brushing against her. But when she saw I was still out swimming, she quickly scurried back into the kayak. I think I convinced her it must have just been a fish.

The following year after our trip, a young woman was attached by a 6 foot tiger shark in Bio Bay. It grabbed her leg, pulled her under, then let go, finding her rather unappetizing. She survived but will have a scarred leg the rest of her life. This event caused the industry to rethink the tours and they no longer allow swimming in the bay. Heidi swears now that she had had a brush with death!!!!

We didn’t take photos when we were on the bay, but this is a stock photo showing the blue.

Now it was time to return home. We again climbed aboard a Vieques Air plane. Everyone was seated to balance the weight, and then the pilot arrived. We never were able to confirm his age, but we guessed at least over 70. But he seemed to know what he was doing, he started up the engines, carefully taxied the plane into position, and away we sped down the runway and into the air. About 10 minutes into the flight, a light came on his dashboard and a bell began to ring. Now this plane is completely open between the passenger seats and the cockpit…we could see and hear everything. The pilot seemed non-pulsed by the alarm, but we were when he pulled out a small manual and slipped his reading glasses on. Satisfied with what he found, he adjusted a few levers on the dash and the light went off and the ringing stopped. All was well….at least for another 10 minutes or so when everything repeated itself…the light, the alarm, the manual, the glasses, the adjustment….calm again, except in our hearts which were all beating at an accelerated rate. Would he be able to find the airport? Would he remember how to land the plane? But soon the airport was in view and down we swooped into a perfect landing with no further lights or alarms!!!!?”

And now onto Vancouver and then home, hopefully smooth sailing. And it was, until we hailed a cab to the hotel where our car was waiting for us. The cabbie popped the trunk, in went the luggage, and we hopped into the cab, to be met by another Septuagenarian, a crusty one at that. “Where you going?” he growled at us. “To the La Quinta Inn.”

Where the hell is that? We replied, “Just across the bridge?”

Which bridge? Us, “The one straight ahead. We can show you.”

And off we rolled. The second intersection we came to he went right through.

Us, “Did you notice there was a red light?

What?

“A red light…you just went through a red light!!!” He pretended not to hear us.

We were about to tell him to pull over and let us out when Heidi spied the hotel just ahead on the left.

A sigh of relief, safe and sound, in our car ready the long drive home. But what a trip….Heidi survived plane delays, re-routed itineraries, God-awful turbulence, maniac taxi drivers, tiny airplanes flown by old men, a curious shark, and falling asleep under a coconut-laden coconut tree!!!! Heidi is now a “seasoned international” traveler, ready to strike out and explore the world.

And Vieques, we will be sure to visit again!!!!

And Again, Todos Santos

Posted on January 9, 2025 by buskbob

“There is nothing more beautiful than the way the ocean refuses to stop kissing the shoreline, no matter how many times it gets sent away”

Growing up I had friends who every year, every summer, went on the same vacation, to the very same spot they went the year before, and the year before that, and the year before that. And I naively thought, “How silly….this big, wide world and you return again and again to the same spot….Don’t you get tired of that? What is the allure?”

Well now I know. For the last six years we have been coming to Todos Santos, every December, to escape the dreariness of our Wenatchee winter. And over the past six years, I have learned to appreciate coming to the same spot. You find it’s familiar, it feels like home. You know every road, the location of each and every speed bump. where to find the most delicious chiliquiles, the most aromatic coffee, the secluded beach. People recognize you, treat you like friends, welcome you. Even though you have been here a ton, you learn to find the new in the familiar….the boutique you always walked past, the brass doorknob shaped like a gecko, the saguaro cactus that looks exactly like it is waving hello. There is no question as to what to pack…we know the weather and what to expect, we can consolidate down to one carry on, we know to bring the binoculars for whale spotting and salt for the rims of the margarita glasses. We are open to uncovering new adventures and experiences, undiscovered corners, new restaurants, new beaches. Anxiety is reduced for you know all the ins-and-outs of immigration and custom control, how to avoid the rash of requests for taxis and time-shares, where to pick up your car rental, how many pesos you need at the toll booth, what stores are open on Christmas Day….you have it all locked down!!!! There is a lot of comfort in coming to the same spot year after year.

This year we were not going for adventure, or dancing or drinking….we came to Todos Santos for one thing only, to relax!!! And that we did. Everyday to the beach, to lie upon the golden sand shaded only by our little umbrella, marvel at the whales spouting and breaching, and reading all the novels we haven’t had the time to read until now.

And when you are in Todos Santos, there is never a lack of good food everywhere. We actually tried a few new places. Miguels, in Todos Santos for the past 24 years. We had their world famous chile rellenos stuffed with lobster and had a chance to talk with Miguel about all the changes he has seen. And we went to a little hole-in-the-wall spot, Tacos El Poblano, where they make the tortillas by hand and the tacos el pastor and tacos asada were out-of-this-world. We ordered chips and guac and I swear there was close to a gallon of guacamole!!!! So good. And this year we had to try a new pizza spot, Buone Pizza, take out only cooked in a brick oven….we had the pepperoni and the Italiana. Brought them home and ate them on the deck with homemade margaritas. And of course, we had to go to some of our favorites…The Green Room, La Esquina, Docecuarenta, Na Há at La Poza and Heirbabuena in El Pescadero.

Coffee at Docecuarenta….our favorite morning spot

Lobster filled Chile Rellenos at Miguels

Something new this year was the meeting up with some friends, totally unplanned. First we met up with Elke and her fiance Rob. We met Elke at Burrowing Owl Winery in Oliver, BC. She was our server in the tasting room and we just hit it off and during our conversation we both found out we were going to be in Todos Santos at the same time (they in El Pescadero) So we met up for dinner at Heirbabuena and had a wonderful dinner. But there is more….Heidi has been working with Janel Keating Hambly at work. Janel is a nationally known speaker and author for Solution Tree….a real expert on Professional Learning Communities. Janel, and her husband Jay, had planned a trip to Cabo and then a few days in Todos Santos. They wanted to stay at the same spot that Heidi and I stay at, Villas La Mar, but unfortunately it was full, so they booked a room a La Poza, the sister property just down the road. Turns out Janel was the principal at my son’s elementary school, and Jay was the Superintendent at the district. Such a small world. We had dinner with them twice…once at Na Há (La Poza) and then again on New Year’s Day at the Todos Santos Brewery (the Rose Bowl was playing…let’s not mention the score) Such fun meeting with them and learning about all the connections we have. Such amazing people.

Visiting with Elke and Rob from Oliver BC

Dinner at Todos Santos Brewery with Janel and Jay

We definitely completed our goal of relaxation. (It did help that we had a 90 minute couple massage) We returned as usual with deep, dark tans and relaxed body and mind….until we got to the airport in Seattle. Our evening flight to Wenatchee was cancelled, of course only after we flew to Wenatchee and couldn’t land. Spent one uncomfortable night in the airport as we couldn’t find a hotel at 2:30 am in the morning. We were booked for the 12:30 pm flight only to find it was delayed 2 hours. Coming into Wenatchee it appeared we were landing only to have the pilot abort the landing at the last minute saying the runway just wasn’t visible. But he was going to try another approach, from the other end. Nail biting time as we descended, nothing but thick fog out the windows and then, with only seconds before touchdown, we see land below and a huge cheer erupts as the wheels touched down in Wenatchee!!!! An exciting ending to a most wonderful trip. Until next year….yes, we are one of those people now!!!

Kauai Family Time

Posted on December 20, 2024 by buskbob

The best part of travel is who you share it with.

Kauai 2024. This trip had its start Christmas 2023. With the kids we decided we needed a family trip and what better place than to the Hawaiian Island of Kauai. We were all in agreement and now we needed to let the grandkids know. We planned a big “reveal” on Christmas Eve Day, but we weren’t just going to tell them….they would have to work to find out. First they had to complete a number of challenges….the search for the missing reindeer, collecting snowballs with reindeer hooves on, puzzles, trivia….and with each completed challenge, clues were given and finally the last clue opened the page letting then know we were heading to Hawaii this coming July.

And here is a little video of the reveal:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JLQFlMGsa4M

Now this is a really BIG deal, for one, this will be the first time all of us will be going on a trip together that requires an airplane to get to the destination, and secondly, for Cody and Bradley, they had never been on a jet plane across the ocean. They both have life threatening allergies and being trapped on a plane would be a scary proposition should either of them have a reaction. But all precautions will be made and as scary as it is, mom and dad decide it is time.

So all year we wait and prepare for the trip. Plane tickets are purchased, rental cars rented, bags packed, possible itineraries sketched out. And Jamie found a way to get a few days off of work and will be flying out to join us a few days after we arrive. In total, 11 of us….in Hawaii !!!!

July arrives and we all convened at our our departure gate at SeaTac…excitement is in the air. Alaska Airlines was amazing to work with. They allowed the boys to board early and for Amanda to wipe down the seats and area with disinfectant wipes. They announced over the intercom that there were people on-board with severe nut allergies and to reframe from eating nuts or seeds, and when we landed in Lihue, the boys received flying wings! Nice touch.

Touch down right on time in Lihue. It is always fun to get off the plane in Hawaii. You are immediately greeted with warm, tropical air. It feels good, and smells good. You know you have arrived!!!!

We make our way to pick up the rental cars….one for each family.

We found the perfect rental that comfortably held all 11 of us. It is a double-condo, situated on the cliffs above Kalapaki Beach, by Nawiliwili Bay. Originally these were two separate condos, a mirror image of each other. But the owners opened a wall between the two living rooms making it one large condo. We had two decks, two living rooms, two kitchens, four bedrooms, four bathrooms plus pull-out couches in each living room. Space for all of us to be together, and also to have some privacy. There was ample parking and best of all, the view over Kalapaki Beach. And this beach was perfect for activities….safe and gentle, lots of sand, surfing lessons, stand up paddle boards and outriggers to rent. Good for swimming and splashing in the surf. And several restaurants (Dukes, Italian, Pizza) and a high-end resort are located just beyond the sand….and the biggest hit of all, an ABC store right next door.

One of Heidi’s Famous Coffee Cup Pictures…..our view from the deck.

It was time to explore and enjoy the island…..and we decided early on that there would be times where we would all do things together and there would be times when we would go our separate ways.

One of the group activities we really enjoyed, was the Inner Tube excursion down the old sugar cane canals. Soooo much fun. We all drove to Kauai Backcountry Adventure headquarters, just out of Lihue, checked in, grabbed our gear (helmets and headlamps and gloves) and loaded onto a bus…and away we went…up towards Mt. Waialeale and the start of the irrigation ditches.

When we got there, we had a quick safety talk and then sat our butts down into inner-tubes and away we went…floating, twirling, sometimes crashing into each other. You go through three or four tunnels…all dug by hand and some over a quarter mile long. This is where your headlamp comes into play, and your gloves to push yourself off the walls.

Ready to get our gear….crocs and one flip-flop

At the end we were treated to a picnic lunch, then back into the bus for the return to headquarters. At the end of our time in Kauai, almost everyone agreed that this adventure was the most fun.

Each day was a new adventure and everybody found something they loved to do. Some took surfing lessons, others rented Stand-Up Paddleboards, or rode the waves on an outrigger canoe. Trips were made to waterfalls, to put-put golf, and to beaches.

As a group we went to Anini Beach on the North Shore and found some epic snorkeling….eels, huge turtles, trigger fish, parrot fish, damselfish, boxer fish, unicorn fish, urchins, massive sea cucumbers, brain coral….so much more. The water was so clear and the beach is protected by a long reef just offshore. The beach itself is pretty narrow, but lots of shade. Such a fun day of snorkeling!!!!

One day, Heidi, Jamie, and I went to a real secluded beach and found seals, crabs, and of course, chickens.

and of course when you finish a hard day in the sun….you need refreshments and food!!!

And in the evening….game night!!!!!!

And whenever we are on Kauai, we always find time to meet with our long-time, really good friend, Rachel Furutani. We have known Rachel and her family for over 20 years and it is always a joy to meet and catch up on all the happenings. And Rachel treated us to a HULA PIE…decadent, delicious and oh so filling!!!!

When all the kids and grandkids went home, Heidi and I stayed on the South Shore for a few more days. And mostly we just sat at the beach and shared memories of the past week with family. Definitely a trip to remember!!!!!

The trip had fun times (Fourth of July in Hawaii)

And if there is one picture that capture the essence of our trip, it is this one ….fun, just a whole lot of fun.

St. Augustine

Posted on December 10, 2024 by buskbob

“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” – Susan Sontag

St. Augustine, founded in 1565 by Spanish Colonists, is the oldest continuously inhabited European established settlement in the current United States. Everywhere you go in this seaside town are signs stating the oldest this, or the oldest that….We saw the Oldest House, The Oldest Jail, the Oldest School House…on and on and on. We had been in Orlando attending a conference and we had a couple days after the conference so we decided to rent a car and drive up to walk about St. Augustine.

We parked at one end of town and bought tickets for one of those hop-on, hop-off buses, and away we went. One of our favorite stops was the old fort – Castillo de San Marcos. Of course, it is the oldest masonry fort in the nation and the oldest structure in all of St. Augustine. The Fort was completed in 1695, came under fire for the first time in 1702 from British Forces. The Castillo was used as a military prison during the Revolutionary War, and at one time it held three signers of the Declaration of Independence within its walls. It is in remarkable condition and you can wander all about. Everyday, starting at 10:30 and repeating every hour until the last firing at 3:30, volunteers dressed in period costumes fire off one of the cannons.

Lightner Museum

Originally the Alcazar Hotel, built in 1888 by Standard Oil co-founder Henry Flagler, as a destination resort with a casino, a grand ballroom, bowling alley, huge indoor swimming pool (at the time the world’s largest), health facilities (a wellness center), Turkish Baths, and upscale rooms. Outside were tennis courts and croquet lawns. The Great Depression and the Wall Street Crash of 1929 and changing recreation tastes in the public brought an end to this luxury hotel and it closed its doors for good in 1931.

Today the building is home to the Lightner Museum, showcasing the vast, eclectic collections of Chicago publisher Otto Lightner. Otto wanted a museum as a “collection of collections”. Everything is in here, Victorian Art Glass, mechanical musical instruments, a shrunken head, an Egyptian mummy, toaster collections, baseball card collections, and so, so much more. And you can wander around parts of the old hotel, see where the pool was, the grand ballroom. Interesting fact, Gertrude Ederle, the first woman to swim across the English Channel (and held the record for quite a while for the fastest crossing) swam in the indoor pool.

Flagler College

Across the street from the Museum is another hotel built by Henry Flagler, the Ponce de Leon Hotel. This beautiful hotel closed in 1967 and is now part of Flagler College, a private, liberal-arts college founded in 1968. Besides being a dry campus, it is famous for the paranormal activity that is said to occur with some frequency. It is said that the mistress of Mr. Flagler, who lived in a room on the fourth floor, killed herself in a fit of despair. Her spirit has been reported roaming the halls. Mr. Flagler’s wife is also reported haunting the college. Mr. Flagler was able to have her diagnosed as insane, so he could then divorce her to be with his mistress. She spent her life in an insane asylum. And lastly, Mr. Flagler himself is said to traipse around the halls. When he died, his body was put on display in the lobby of the hotel and his spirit now keeps watch over his beloved hotel. We didn’t see any ghosts while we were there, just a beautiful building.

Lincolnville

Perhaps the most interesting time we had was visiting the Lincolnville Neighborhood just a little ways behind the Alcazar Hotel. Back in the late 1800’s, this neighborhood began as a “freeman” community, a place where emancipated slaves came to live. The neighborhood grew and thrived with churches, school, stores built. In the 1960’s, Lincolnville attracted nationwide attention for the roll it played in the civil rights movement. Demonstrations were held here. Martin Luther King Jr. stayed here numerous times. He was once arrested at a nearby Monson Motor Hotel when he stopped in to order lunch. The white owner, James Brock, refused to serve him and called the police to arrest Mr. King for trespassing. At a later date, James Brock poured acid into the swimming pool when black and white protesters jumped into the pool. All through this neighborhood are old homes with plaques describing the history. Quite the neighborhood.

And in this neighborhood we found our favorite little cafe, THE BLUE HEN…where Heidi, who happens to LOVE biscuits and gravy, found the very best here at the Blue Hen. And that is saying something for Heidi has tried buscuits and gravy all over the place.

Some other sights we saw…

The Old Senator…a live oak more than 600 years old

After spending a most enjoyable day at this old town, we headed to Cocoa Beach for a quick shopping trip at Ron Jon Surf shop and dinner at Coconuts on the Beach.

December Sun in Todos Santos….and Turtles

Posted on January 22, 2024 by buskbob

Every day is a journey, and the journey itself is home.
-Matsu Basho

Once again, we escaped the cold, the grey, the snow of Eastern Washington, and made our annual pilgrimage to Todos Santos. Two week respite of sun, warmth, and good food. Time to forget about the stress of work and just veg for a bit.

Turtles

We have a beach we like to call our own, just a few miles north of town. We like it as we are usually the only ones there. Usually we have nothing but sun drenched sand just waiting for us to lay down our towel, plant the umbrella and unfold the chairs, but today we found a beach being pounded by huge waves. It was hard to find even a small spot of dry sand. But find a spot we did, it looked safe, we set up and as the sun was shining we thought we’d wait a bit to see if the tide was going out and perhaps the waves would subside. No sooner had we sat down that we spied a baby turtle trying to make it’s way to the surf. The cutest little thing. The waves though were so fierce the turtle wasn’t able to make any headway and was being beaten back further and further. And then we saw further up the beach more turtles…some helpless on their backs, others in danger of being eaten by a flock of opportunist seagulls, and others tossed so far up the beach they were almost into the scrub brush. It appeared a nest of turtles had just hatched and these baby turtles were desperately trying to make their way to the waves. But with the conditions as they were, all were in danger of dying, so we got to work. Heidi was the spotter, and I scooped up the sand under the turtle and carried it to the surf, timing my release with the outgoing wave. One after another we watched our little hatchlings make their way into the ocean. A few we thought on the verge of death, found on their backs drying out in the sun, perked up as soon as the water hit them. The instinct in them to pursue the open water is amazing. We counted 27 turtles we saved. We felt like heros!!!!!

Go Little Guy!!! Go!!!

So Cute!!!!

While we busied ourselves saving the turtles, we failed to notice the tide was rising, the surf was coming up over the sand berm and washing inland. Our beach towels, chairs, and cooler were all washed inland. And scarier yet, our car was now surrounded by several inches of sea water. Quick as can be, we collected our beach gear, hopped into the car and escaped before becoming part of the ocean. But we had huge grins on our faces knowing 27 turtles made it to sea.

I think I’ll let some of our pictures do the rest of the talking on this posting.

Adios, Todos Santos….until next year!!!!

Sipping Our Way Through Okanagan BC Wine Country

Posted on January 21, 2024 by buskbob

“Wine is the most civilized thing in the world.” — Ernest Hemingway.

A few years ago, on a whim, we decided to take a drive north of the border to explore the wine country in the Okanagan region of British Columbia. “Just for the day”, we said, “to see what it is like.” Once we crossed the border, our first destination was Moon Curser Vineyards – a choice feuled by both the intriguing name and the captivating story they shared. During the Gold Rush days, unscrupulous gold-smuggling miners would cross the border, all under the cover of night, trying to avoid custom agents at all cost. Often, the light of the moon would foil their plans, shedding light onto their surreptitious travels and activities….Curse you moon!!!!! Besides their captivating narrative, we found we also loved the wine and the breathtaking view down to the lake.

“Let’s keep exploring!”…. off to nearby Nk’ Mip Cellars (pronounced “In Ka Meep”), the first indigenous owned winery in all of North America. The wine here was also good…so let’s try another….backtracked to Young and Wyse Collections for their Cab Sauv, then to Bordertown Vineyards and Estate Winery, located right off the highway. As the day unfolded, our enjoyment surpassed expectations, prompting us to extend our adventure into the night. A quick visit to the local grocery store for toothbrushes (we hadn’t planned to spend the night so we didn’t pack anything), followed by a check-in at the Nk’ Mip Resort (a sprawling hotel and casino), a delightful dinner at their restaurant, and we finally called it a night. Next morning bright and early we zipped back home in time for Heidi to be at work by 7:30 am, and made a vow to return soon.

And return we have, once or twice a year, always finding new wineries and places to stay and eat. We truly love this unique wine growing region of British Columbia. Similar to Wenatchee and Chelan, once known for growing apples, the Canadian Okanagan was world renowned for growing peaches. In both locations, grapes have surpassed the tree fruits as the predominant agriculture crop, and wineries are popping up all over the place.

Oliver

Just north of Osoyoos, is the town of Oliver. Oliver is home to over 40 wineries and calls itself ‘The Wine Capital of Canada’, and rightly so. Grapes grown here on the Golden Mile Bench enjoy a warm climate and it’s location on the west side of the valley gets morning, rather than afternoon sunshine, making it a little cooler than the Osoyoos area just south.

We found the greatest little villas here to stay, Hester Creek Villas. It is our preferred spot to stay. There are only 6 villas, each with a commanding view of the valley below. The rooms are exquisitely decorated, you are greeted with a complimentary bottle of Hester Creek wine, and each morning a scrumptious breakfast is brought to your room….hard to beat. They book up months in advance so you must plan ahead. Plus the winery at Hester Creek is amazing and their on-site restaurant, Terrafina, serves up delicious meals.

Some of our favorite Oliver Wineries:

VinAmité Cellars- A small family-owned winery right off the main highway. The first time we stopped here we sat on their sunny back deck, sipping some excellent viognier, gazing at the vineyard below. Over time we have become friends with the servers and regularly trade wines.

Nice little charcuterie plate with local cheeses, meat, jam, and mustard

District Wine Village – On the North Edge of town is the District Wine Village. It was built with a local community mindset, to celebrate artisan production and craftmanship. Currently there are 12 small boutique wineries nestled around a center stage (used for ice skating in the winter). We have found several wineries here we really like. (Apricus, Winemakers CUT, and Gneiss)

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery – Another winery with a great story. In 1980, the Burrowing Owl was declared extinct in the BC Province. Since 2002, Burrowing Owl Estate Winery has donated over one million dollars toward the captive breeding program, and now the numbers of Burrowing Owls have continued to grow. Each year approximately 50 breeding pairs of yearling owls are released into the wild….quite a success!!!! And they make great wine here, plus they also have villas (we are staying in one later this year) and on on-site restaurant, The Sonora Room.

Stone Boat Pinot House – Another family owned winery that specializes in Pinot Noir…really delicious Pinot Noir. And one of the servers, Ove, entertains us with his tales and stories.

Others we have visited and enjoy: Maverick Estate Winery, Church and State Wines, French Door Winery (really great Rose), Intersection Estate Winery, Nostalgia Wines Inc.(Formerly Oliver Twist), River Stone Estate Winery, Rust Wine Co., Platinum Bench Winery (and they make fantastic artisan bread), and Tinhorn Creek Winery (they have an amazing restaurant here, Miradoro)

We also visited Silver Sage Winery, Phantom Creek Estate (a little too pretentious for us), Road 13 Vineyards, Red Horses Vineyards, Kismet Estate Winery, Jackson Triggs Okanagan Estate, Covert Farms Family Estate Winery, and Black Hills Estate Winery. So we still have about 20 more to visit!!!!

Okanagan Falls (OK Falls)

North of Oliver, just as you pass Vaseux Lake, you take a right on Oliver Ranch Road and head up to a little valley full of vineyards and wineries. We happened upon this area just by chance and discovered several wineries we really enjoy. Bonamici Cellars is a small winery owned by two families. Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery boasts an amazing view down to the lake and they have a picnic area where you can enjoy a picnic lunch and sips. Our favorite in the area is Stag’s Hollow Winery where two female winemakers put out some excellent Albariño and Syrah. We stopped for lunch at a winery on the other side of the valley, See Ya Later Ranch.

Naramata

Probably our favorite area to visit is the Naramata Bench. Set up above beautiful Lake Okanagan, this area sports perfect soil conditions for growing about 50 different grape varieties. The vineyards cling to the hillsides and are blessed with long days of sunshine. We have found some of our favorite wineries here.

Black Widow Winery – Everytime we would drive past this winery, Heidi would say, “No, I don’t want to stop there, I hate spiders.” But we kept hearing how good their wine was, so we overcame our arachnophobia and made our way into this amazing winery. The recommendations were spot-on, for the wine is delicious and well made, and the staff is so knowledgeable and friendly. We now can say we love Black Widow!!!!

Marichel – Excellent Syrah here, not the big, bold Syrah you find down in Walla Walla or Red Mountain, more of a medium-bodied temperate Syrah, but still with that slight peppery taste. The small little porch is a comfy spot to sip and take in the stunning view down to the lake.

On the Deck at Marichel Winery…we always get this corner table.

Lake Breeze Winery – We always stop at Lake Breeze, for their delicate wines but also to eat at THE PATIO, their on-site restaurant. The tables are shaded by trees and vines, the food is sooooo good, all farm to table, locally sourced. Once seated you just don’t want to ever leave!!!

Upper Bench Winery and Creamery – We come for the wine, but also for their cheese, and in the summer, for their wood fired oven pizza!!!! Pizza and Pinot Noir, such a good combination!!!

Other wineries we have visited and just love:

Bench 1775, Deep Roots, Hillside Winery and Bistro, La Frenz Estate Winery, Lang Vineyards, Poplar Grove Winery, Little Engine Wines, Roche Wines, Terra Vista Winery, Serendipity Winery, Tightrope Winery, Nichol Vineyards, Therapy WInery, Van Westen Vineyards. And we still have a few more to visit!!!

When we stay in Naramata, our choice of accommodation is Villa Magnolia, three tastefully decorated rooms overlooking the deep blue waters of Lake Okanagan.

Summerland

Each time we go, we tend to venture further and further, trying out new areas, new wineries. Last trip we made it to Summerland, on the west side of Lake Okanagan, pretty much right across the lake from Villa Magnolia. We enjoyed the wine at 8th Generation Winery, had the patio all to ourselves. Ventured up into the hillsides above Summerland to visit Silkscarf Winery, Lunessence Winery and Vineyards and Thornhaven Estate Winery. Had delicious Pizza and Sauv. Blanc at Dirty Laundry Vineyards.

We’ll be back again this year, ready to try out some of our favorites and explore new spots….heck, perhaps we’ll venture further north to try the whites in the Peachland and Kelowna area. Wine tasting is just a fun way to spend time together and explore beautiful spots in this world.

Malaysia Adventure…..What did we learn?

Posted on July 9, 2017 by buskbob

Well, our Malaysia Adventure is over. Quite an adventure it was, filled with many highs and unfortunately some lows. But through it all we have come away stronger and wiser.

We learned that people are the same all over the world. They want to love and be loved. They want happiness and joy, a roof over their heads, food in their bellies, and purpose.

We learned when you think about going to war that the people who will be hurt are the same ones you shared a beer with at the local tavern, or the little children you saw playing in the park, or the lovers stealing a kiss on the metro. Suddenly everything is personal. When you travel, you develop a love for other cultures, religions and lifestyles and you fully understand that people are our greatest treasures. We believe if more people traveled, there would be more peace on this planet of ours.

We gained friendships that now span the globe and found out some old friendships and relationships were not as strong as we thought. We learned that language is not a barrier to friendship and that kindness, empathy and understanding are more important than words.

We learned to embrace diversity and celebrate other cultures and customs. Ours is not the end-all, be-all. There is so much to learn from others.

We learned the world is a lot smaller than we thought.

We gained in confidence….we can drive on the left side of the road, navigate any airport, bus system, or subway system in the world, and order off a menu with nary a word in English. We can gather necessary visas, start up a bank account, lease an apartment, secure a phone plan, and find food for the kitchen. The world is not a scary place.

We learned to adapt. Travel and living in another country is fraught with the unexpected. You learn to go with the flow, you learn to substitute, to do without, to embrace new ways of thinking and doing things. What worked for you at home may not work in your new environment.

We learned monkeys are not our favourite animal and that durian will never be served in our home. We learned to take our shoes off at the door and business class is sometimes worth the investment. We learned to always carry some tissue with you for it is as handy as duct tape.

While our Malaysia adventure may have come to an end, our travel will continue. As such, we have decided to continue to blog. So our “Malaysia Adventure” continues. We hope you come along for the ride…..first stop, TURKEY!!!!!

Our Adventures

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.”

Tag Archives: travel