Chinese New Year brings a four day weekend….time to get out of town. A one hour twenty minute flight brings us to Krabi, Thailand.(craw-bee)

Krabi is on the mainland in SE Thailand, just north of the Malaysian border. It sits on the Phang Nga Bay which empties out to the Andaman Sea. Across the bay is famous Phuket Island and within the bay are over a hundred sea haystacks/islands. Krabi is one of the oldest settlements in Thailand, an old fishing village, but now caters to tourists, honeymooners, and rock climbers.
The geography of the area protected it somewhat from the horrific tsunami in 2004. A lot of the power of the waves had been dissipated by the time it reached the coastline here.
Even so the beachfront was devastated with rubble, smashed boats, and wrecked buildings. Today there is little to remind you of the terrible devastation that occurred over 10 years ago.

We stayed at Tubkaak Boutique Resort, a gorgeous spot right on the water. Our balcony afforded us a view to the water and gentle breezes all day long….the perfect spot for morning coffee. The bathroom sported an outdoor shower partnered to an outdoor tub. The mini bar was well stocked and everything in it was complimentary…..replacements you paid for if used. Two restaurants on site, traditional Thai and Italian. Both delicious. The pool was refreshing and the spa professional (no happy endings here) Heidi had her first Thai massage and came away relaxed and stretched. Thai massage is a little more rigorous that traditional massage. No oil is used and you wear these pajama-like outfits. Lots of kneading, muscle compression, yoga-like positions….pretty cool.

Up early on Friday, breakfast at 6:30, meeting a long tail boat at 7:30 for a trip to Hong Island. Koh Hong is a 40 minute boat ride across the bay from our hotel. Since we left early we were the first to arrive. We stepped onto a pristine powder-like, white sand beach with torquoise water and massive rock outcroppings soaring up out of the water.

Koh Hong is uninhabited, except for the birds, white-faced gibbons and giant monitor lizards that can be often spotted on the main white sand beach (at quiet times, at least). Its interior is home to a large lagoon (the “chamber” to which its Thai name “Hong” refers). This is best accessed at low tide by kayak, as the diminishing water level makes its colour change drastically from a deep emerald green to a clear turquoise.

We staked out a spot half way down the second beach and enjoyed the peace and quiet, an island all to ourselves. And then, like slow arriving guests to a wedding, the crowd began to appear. A couple here or there would motor up in long-tail boats much like ours. Then a speedboat full of 20 or more. Next a party of 6. And soon the floodgates opened and we had neighbors on both sides of us. SE Asia seems to be a playground for Europeans and Asians. Rarely an American in the bunch. Next to us was a group of Russians with skimpy speedos and thong bikinis. To the right a Chinese family, a French couple,and a party of 12 from Japan with two babies. The only other Americans we saw were a couple on a two week honeymoon from L.A. We’re kind used to being the only Yanks. Funny thing, when people ask where we are from, we’ll say, “Where do you think?” Invariably, they will guess Australia, or the UK….so rare it is to have Americans.

We stayed til 2:00. Our Long-tail boat driver tracked us down and informed us it was time to leave. Instead of heading straight back, he took us around the island….the western side was calm and sported numerous caves and soaring cliffs. On the north end, he suddenly turned toward the island and we were sure we were headed straight into the rock wall…but lo and behold there was a passageway between two sky-high cliffs and we arrived into this glorious lagoon. Limestone cliffs hovering on all sides….a hidden paradise like in the movie, The Beach.

Once we returned to Tubkaak we enjoyed a little pool time, a 90 minute massage, and dinner on the beach, toes in the sand, complete with a Chinese New Year firework show, the lights reflecting on the waters of the bay. We stayed until the waxing moon (what my daughter used to call, “a finger nail clipping moon”….just a sliver) slipped out of sight.

I Should Have Known Better
Saturday we signed up to take a “Four Island Tour”. Heidi said, “Are you sure? This isn’t something we usually do”. Of course…it will be fun and think of all we’ll see…four islands…FOUR islands.
Picked up at 8:00 am by a nice 12 passenger van….had it all to ourselves….seemed a little overkill for just the two of us. But four resort stops later every seat was full including a double-up in the seat next to us. I was beginning to fret.
Made it to the marina and were joined by another van load of people. All 25 of us were then loaded onto a powerful speedboat and we jetted to Railey Beach to pick up another couple….then off we sped, the wind whipping our faces, the sun keeping us warm, island sliding into view. I was cautiously optimistic. Soon we arrived at island number one….or should I say sand spit number one. There were so many people standing shoulder to shoulder on this beach I can’t confirm if there was any sand. We “got” 30 minutes to enjoy this horde of humanity. Heidi and I found some lonely rocks. Heidi didn’t have to mouth the words “I told you so” but they hung in the air like an inappropriate comment you can’t take back.

Next we made our way to Chicken Island. There are these unique rock outcropping that gives the island it’s name. We stopped offshore for a picture op, and then motored toward the cliffs to join the 30 or so boats at anchor. We were here to “enjoy” some snorkeling. All but me donned life preservers, slipped on masks and snorkels and floated around in pods….for most it was their first time and they were thrilled. This snorkel spot was almost devoid of life….a few fish here and there, the coral all skeletons. I found two giant clams but nothing more.
Back on the boat, the next stop Koh Poda. We get an hour here and our lunch. Hardest decision here was where to find an open spot of sand to throw down our towels. Heidi noticed a couple leaving and we quickly grabbed the vacancy. Once we settled I asked Heidi which direction she might suggest I look. To the right lying a mere three feet away was a beautiful topless Swede lying on her back. To the left a German woman on her stomach providing us with a great view of her thong covered (mostly uncovered) crotch. Heidi suggested I look out toward the sea.

Mercifully we made it to our last stop, Miracle Beach , a nice beach, caves and over 400 people. (I’m sure I’ve underestimated). By now I had expressed every version of “I’m sorry” to Heidi. She withstood everything with a smile.

The return to the resort brought another massage, another dinner on the beach, and quiet time just by ourselves. Note to self….stay clear of group tours!!!!

Our last day brought some down-time time by the pool, the completion of Gone Girl, another massage, and a final au revoir….for we shall meet Krabi again. A beautiful spot on the amazing planet of ours. We have become rather spoiled.