LAST DAYS ON CRETE

After all our hiking, we decided to do a beach day, so off we drive to Elafonissi Beach, also known as Pink Beach. Certain times a year, the sand on this beach is a light pink color, but not this time of year. We got there early after surviving a winding, mountain road. The beach was empty at 9:00. We grabbed an umbrella and two lounges, went for a swim and started working on our books and tans. Little by little the lounges by us filled up. Soon the sand between us and the water filled up. There must have been a couple thousand people at the beach, but it is so large it doesn’t seem like Waikiki where it is shoulder to shoulder, feet to head.

For some reason, I thought the water would be really warm, but it was a little brisk, about 77 degrees F. Once you got wet, it felt good. This was one of those beaches where you can wade out forever, your feet always in sand.

We left around 2:30 with our pelts all tanned and two books finished. Back into the car and ready for the mountain road again. Here are some driving videos:

Driving and Raki

The Tunnel

Cute Village

We have fallen in love with Crete. A special place for us.

Next up: ATHENS

Mountain Monasteries

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We drive today to visit the Monastery of Agia Triada (Holy Trinity).  We pass ancient orchards, the branches green on top of thick, twisted and gnarled  trunks.thumbnail_IMG_1600thumbnail_IMG_1599.jpg

 

 

Orange trees burdened with fruit compete with the olive groves for the most popular tree on Crete.  Boxes of bees litter the countryside, the thyme honey recovered ever so sweet.  When you arrive at the monastery, initially you are not impressed.  From the parking lot it is a rather plain, nondescript building.

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But once in the courtyard, every changes.

The grounds inside were spectacular…roses, fruit trees, lavendar…such variety, a real visual feast for your eyes and nose.    The underside of the central dome featured the face of Jesus looking down upon everyone.  dome

The altar bright and intricate.

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Carved wooden seats for the monks lined the walls.  Offering candles lit the entry.candles

Off to the side was a little museum filled items of gold and silver, robes, crosses, manuscripts, wooden carving and other historical relics of the monastery.   Built in 1634, the church has played and continues to play an important role on the ecclesiastical life on the island of Crete.  The monks also run a profitable and award winning olive oil and wine making facility.  We visited the cellars and of course sampled the wine and oil, heck, we even bought a couple bottles to enjoy later.

Further down the road is the Gouverneto Monastery.  Unfortunately for us it was closed for the day, so we instead took the trail down to the abandoned Katholiko Monastery and the cave of St. John the Hermit.

Supposedly, Saint John founded the Katholiko Monastery, perhaps the oldest monastery in Crete.  It is said that while praying he hit his stick upon a rock and from thence forth sanctified water flowed with curative powers.  In his later life, he wandered the hills naked, crouched over with age.  Mistaken for a wild animal, St. John the Hermit was shot by a hunter.  His last request was to be taken to his cave to die.  His bones were found and are interned in the cave today.

After we explored the cave, we made our way further down the hill to the abandoned Katholiko Monastery. The trail ends at the monastery and a large bridge that spans the gorge. Not wanting to stop until we made it to the sea, we found a steep little scramble off to the side and arrived at the riverbed. We then followed it another kilometer to the sea. There was an small inlet that was once a used as a harbor, and outside the harbor waves from the Aegean Sea crashed upon the rocky shores. Luckily there was a nice breeze blowing as we climbed back up to our car.

We finished the day with a nice dinner watching the sun set beyond the little Chania Harbor.

It is up early tomorrow…..we do an epic European Hike…The Samaria Gorge!!!!!!

Chania, Crete

Tell any Greek that you are visiting Chania (pronounced Hon Ya) and they will say “ti oraia”…How Lovely!!!!! Little known outside Greece, Crete’s cultural captial has long been Greece’s favourite city. A gentle and sparkling mix of historical beauty and seaside charm.

Crete is the largest Greek island and the fifth largest in the Mediterranean. It has pretty much escaped the tourist hordes but that may be changing. People are finding out about the absolutely fabulous beaches, the rugged mountains and gorges, the food, and, of course, the people. Crete is part of Greece, but is seems to have its own culture. One thing you can be sure of, at every meal you will be served some Raki, compliments of the establishment. You need to be extra careful drinking Raki….at 37% or more alchohol, the effects can quickly sneak up on you.

We took the fast ferry from Santorini to Heraklion, Crete….rented a car and drove the almost 150 kilometers to Chania, mostly in the dark. Driving is something else here in Greece. Important to understand that you drive on the shoulder pretty much all the time. This way, those who want to go fast can get around you and those in the opposite lane can also easily pass if you are off to the side. It seems to work, and we have quickly become shoulder drivers. At one point we almost had a few passengers with us. Right as the sun was setting, nature called and we pulled into a small gas station right on the coast. While I was busy exploring the men’s room, Heidi was busy snapping pictures of the sun dropping into the sea. All of a sudden the back doors opened and in popped a couple Greeks. A more astute partner outside the car noticed Heidi inside and at the same time spied their car just 10 meters away. Communication became a bunch of hand gestures and a lot of laughing. Seems everyone rents the same model of white Nissan Micra.

Chania is this “Cute as a Bug” city, with its narrow, labyrinthine alleyways to the historical Venetian Harbor. We heard one woman explain, “So cute!!! You can’t swing a dead cat in any direction without hitting something cute”. Never had heard that expression before, but she was spot on. Chania is dripping with cuteness. Getting lost should be your goal as you wander down alleyway after alleyway. It’s a shopper’s paradise and a feast for your eyes. Stroll past old Venetian homes and gaze upon ruins from Byzantine times, your camera your inseparable companion.

People have been living on Crete since the dawn of time, well at least over the last 6000 years…first by Neolithic people, then the Minoans, the Mycenaeans, the Dorians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Venetians, Ottoman Turks, and occupied by the Germans during WWII. All left their mark on Crete, but for Chania, the greatest influence were the Venetians. Approximately 1/6 of the population of Venice moved here in the 13th century. They fortified the city and the harbor and built most of the buildings still standing in the old section of town.
I was reading another travel blog, and the author described Chania as “a jewel in the Mediterranean beautiful enough to make your eyes feel as if they’re going to burst into tiny little hearts and spill out all over the turquoise sea.” I can’t think of a better description.

Tomorrow going for a drive to visit some mountain monasteries and do a small gorge hike.