There is one paved road connecting the cities of New Bagan, Old Bagan, and Nyaung U, all other roads are dirt. Most people live in the little villages throughout the area in small homes with woven mat walls and bamboo support.

Life moves at a gentle pace. No one is in a hurry.

Smiles are plentiful.

Goats are herded through towns and from field to field.

Things are done the way they have been for hundreds of years.

And then there are the temples, a few thousand temples. And they are all open to explore. There are no fees to pay, each open to explore, to worship in, to make memories. The large ones are busy, visited by tour buses, surrounded by vendors. Others rarely visited, just you and the temple, the wind, the birds.

Ananda Temple
Built in 1091, the Ananda temple is the jewel of the Bagan temples. It is probably the best preserved and most beautiful temple in all Bagan. The spires are covered in gold as well as the Buddhas, all four of them. An interesting fact…the architecture was so unique, so special, that the King executed all the architects so they would never replicate or surpass the temple. This was one of those temples visited by the masses. Lots of vendors, tour buses, ever so popular.

Dhammayangyi Temple

The largest of all the temples. It was built by King Narathu, the tyrant King. Narathu was second in line to be King, so to change that he first killed his older brother and then his father. Now King he felt a bit guilty so he decided to build the largest of all temples. During the building, he kept his ruthless ways. He would test the way the bricks fitted together…if a pin could be placed between the bricks it meant to him the slave was not worthy and was put to death. After the temple was built, he tired of his wife and had her killed. When the father-in-law got word of his daughter’s death, he sent assassins dressed as merchants to meet with Narathu. Once given audience with the King, they chopped him to pieces and then killed themselves. Dhammayangyi is known also as the haunted temple…so many deaths, gruesome murders.

Manuha Temple
This temple seemed claustrophobic….the Buddhas filled the entire space..I could barely get by the toes. It was built to honor their king who was held captive in a nearby kingdom. The Buddhas are as cramped and uncomfortable as their captive King. Only the reclining Buddha has a smile,a smile one would have entering death, depicting death as the only release their King would enjoy. When Nobel Peace Prize winner, Aung San Suu Kyi, was released from house arrest, this temple was the one of the first places she visited.

Shwesandaw Pagoda

The temple many go to watch the sun rise or set. Steep, steep climb to the top level and the views are tremendous…360 degree views of the surrounding temples and toward the Irrawaddy River flowing cold and strong all the way from the Himalayas. Right next door I found a nondescript building holding a simple but elegant reclining Buddha.

Misc. Temples Big and Small

I am in love with Bagan….with the people, the temples, the simple way of life. It is a jewel, one I’m afraid will be tarnished in years to come. I am so lucky to have experienced this special spot on this planet of ours. Truly lucky.